SBS 2016 Taurus SHO Build Thread - LOCKED
- Thread starter StealBlueSHO
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SM105K said:
Matt said there is benefit to the 170F Tstat.. 160Tstat is too cold according to him (and everyone else but LMS)... if I am gonna open the Tstat housing and make a mess again.. should probably do it with the one my tuner likes.
SM105K said:
So from what I understand... and I could be off on this... but the lower engine temps allow for more spark... IE.. if the car runs hotter, it tolerance for knock goes down based on the fuel supplied. Again.. I could be off, but Matt said there is a bit of power to be gained from running slightly cooler than stock.. I defer to his knowledge on this one. I have two stock thermostats sitting on a shelf, so I Matt says they are good to go, then I will use one of them.. otherwise, I will grab another 170F Tstat.
StealBlueSHO said:
Heat can equal preignition. Manufacturers want the happy medium for regular consumers not the performance oriented ones. In Michael's case I'd just say the stock one would just be a bandaid until he gets another one. Considering the amount of pressure and heat he is creating it's probably even more necessary than just a regular tune and bolt on Taurus.
One half dozen or another... I just paid for a new one from GH...
Sooo.. that means the last LMS purchased part that is on my car is the Catchcan... hmmmm...
Sooo.. that means the last LMS purchased part that is on my car is the Catchcan... hmmmm...
Jordan said:
I dont agree and here is my reasoning....
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/
My take is this.... The cooling system issues we have on these cars cannot be fixed with a thermostat. We need more water pump flow and bigger radiator capacity to allow for running these things at 625 crank horsepower for more than a 1/4 mile at a time. Dropping the "starting" coolant temp by 10 degrees buys you more time before the coolant temp gets to 215 or so at wot and you have to start pulling timing back (it is progressive up to that point, but 215 seems to be where you really need to start retarding timing from my experience) or risk detonation. Also, by this point, that extra 10 degrees of temp reduction at the start also allows the coolant temp to get to an equilibrium point since you now have had lots of airflow through the cooling stack (because of vehicle speed) and might be able to hold the coolant below 220 where things start to really go downhill for power production. If we had a cooling system capable of holding 195 degrees no matter what happens, that would be the optimum temperature, but since we don't, we make compromises. The 170 thermostat I like running is the best compromise between giving us a little buffer for cooling capacity as well as allows for efficiency and getting the oil temp hot enough to cook the water out on short trips. There are also concerns about carbon buildup long-term that makes me not want to go any colder as well.
SM105K said:
I know I guess I was hoping it was a typeo. If I was already e30 tuned with stock turbos....then upgraded my turbos.I would be mad if after spending all that money I was back to the same power level as an e30 stock turbo tune with the auto octane upgraded turbo tune. So basically I was hoping he meant that the e30 upgraded turbo tune was about the same as auto octane upgraded turbo tune
802SHO said:
So there is a difference between the 87-94 octane tune and the E30 tune... Its pretty awesome thinking that I can go to a good 93 octane station.. fill up and potentially run high 11's without the need for meth or mixing fuels. Vs on stock turbos with a HPFP and E30 I need to mix and monitor ethanol content...
Also you have to factor in wear and tear.. these turbos move 30% more volume.. so they work almost 1/3 less harder to develop the same power. Safer, cooler, and more efficient power designed to last vs maxing out the stockers... there are many more advantages but these come to mind first..
Now, if I want to run E30 with the bigger turbos then there is a MASSIVE difference between stock turbos and bigger turbos on E30 with Gearheads tune...
Perhaps my wording was poor in the first post concerning this.
802SHO said:
Potentially. I would invest in a HPFP... i mean.. you already picked up the rest of the portfolio.. then you can just use the meth for cooling and octane.. not a fuel supplement which can cause issues if the pump fails.
Swapped out the LMS Catch Can for the UPR Catch Can. Nothing wrong with the LMS Catch Can but between selling off the MyCalibrator and the LMS Catch Can I was able to cover the costs of the UPR dual check valve w/ CSS setup... There are no longer ANY LMS related parts on my car now...
Install was OK at best.. the triheaded line that connects to the CSS, CC, and Intake needs to be a bit longer as I was unable to route it the way I wanted to route it. Oh well.. its installed.
Additionally, I am taking the car back to National Speed later today for another couple power pulls. I want to make sure the car is still producing the power and I am not having an issue. If the dyno come backs more than a few percentage points lower, I will be having a compression test done to make sure the motor is healthy. Will post dyno slips later day.
Install was OK at best.. the triheaded line that connects to the CSS, CC, and Intake needs to be a bit longer as I was unable to route it the way I wanted to route it. Oh well.. its installed.
Additionally, I am taking the car back to National Speed later today for another couple power pulls. I want to make sure the car is still producing the power and I am not having an issue. If the dyno come backs more than a few percentage points lower, I will be having a compression test done to make sure the motor is healthy. Will post dyno slips later day.
SHOdded said:
I am trying to wrap my head around the track times... not sure what is going on.. If I am still putting down the same power, then there is something else going on.. tuning would be my guess. Car feels fine though but compression loss can be tricky. Between the XDI pump popping off (banging the cam), the stuck thermostat at same time of the knock event I had (6+ on the device) I just want verification that the car is still producing the right power out.
The car idles rougher but I also have installed the torque mounts so my baseline is off. I checked the plugs, they all look clean, tail pipes are clean, nothing seems to be off except for track times.. I did some searching through the forums and online.. and a cylinder under performing will cause power loss but may not be detectable by visuals. I could pull plugs, buy a compression check tool, and find out... OR I can put it on a dyno for a few minutes to verify power output.. $79 for a couple quick pulls isn't much..
If the dyno numbers are off, then I will do a compression check, if not, then there is something else going on like I said. Seems to me a like a quick verification that isn't expensive. Matt was a little puzzled as well.
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