Sealing Airaid Intake

AFR bank 1 and STFT were unchanged which I think is a good sign.  The only parameter I noticed really change was .5 degrees average more timing for the 0 to 60 run, which I guess when viewed with the .75 degrees of knock retard equates to a nice bump :)  I will try and do a run with the stock box, but I have so little free time not sure when I will get to it.  As for the write up I will try and do something, but it was fairly easy.  Probably the easiest way to do it is get a piece of Lexan from Home Depot, put it over the box, trace the outline of the weather stripping with a sharpy, and cut it with a jig saw (using a fine blade).  To hold it down, all I used was angle brackets bolted to the air box, then long screws coming up from the angle brackets thru the Lexan to hold it down.
 
slurppie said:
Has anyone thought of using Kydex to form a lid?


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Had to look up what Kydex was but that seems interesting.  There are a number of complex curves/bends in the Airaid top that make sealing it difficult.  This might be an interesting approach if they make it thick enough to prevent it getting sucked down on to the filter...
 
I've worked with kydex a little bit  making holsters and mag pouches.  I think it would work well in this application.

You can easily form it with a hot air gun or flat griddle.

They make it pretty thick pretty thick, but even in thin form, once it cools its very stiff.


I usually buy my kydex from knife kits.com.

I probably still have some laying around if someone wants to try it. Just pay the shipping and you can have it.

I'll check once I get home.
 
dalum said:
I think I'd be a little worried about the kydex deforming from the underhood heat.
Click to expand...
You might be correct depending on the thickness.

2a7y3a7y.jpg
 
boostedflex said:
Thanks Kinder, that will be phase two for sure :)

I finally finished sealing the box, and have some good data.  Ambient temperature was 82, I logged without and with the lid on, and also with both front and rear AC on (wanted to simulate worst case)

IAT1 max value without lid = 127.4
IAT1 max value with lid = 114.8
IAT1 at redline without lid = 120.2
IAT1 at redline with lid = 96.8
Max Knock at Full Throttle without lid = .75
Max Knock at Full Throttle with lid = 0
Zero to Sixty without lid = 5.40
Zero to Sixty with lid = 5.28

The biggest take from this is the 23.4 degree difference in IAT with vs without the lid at redline, and the slightly over .1 second increase in zero to sixty :)  Very pleased, with time I will insulate the box to try and get closer to ambient.
Click to expand...

I think you guys are over anaylizing whats going on with IAT temps. I've been doing observations of IAT temps with my Gauges and it seems like the "problem" is a bit overstated then your making it out to be.

I've been having range of ambient temp of anywhere from 70-95 degrees over the past couple days where I live...and my IAT temps are anywhere from 10-25 degrees over ambient, with the higher temps producing a higher delta (example 92 outside temp is normally about 115-120 IAT temp).

If the car is left idling, IAT temps do rise significantly, I'm assuming its from warmer air temps from the engine and exhaust under the hood, but once the car is moving and doing over 40 MPH, you get a ram-air effect forcing air into the box and it doesn't allow the warmer engine temps into the box.

Personally getting more air into the box is more important then how warm or cool it is.
 
I tend to disagree, I personally have seen the difference in only 10F on the IAT can make on my car, I tested this at the track. Of course you want as much air as possible with the least restriction. However colder air is more dense and produces more power at less boost. Which in turn is easier on the engine. Just my 2 cents.


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ShoBoat said:
I tend to disagree, I personally have seen the difference in only 10F on the IAT can make on my car, I tested this at the track. Of course you want as much air as possible with the least restriction. However colder air is more dense and produces more power at less boost. Which in turn is easier on the engine. Just my 2 cents.


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Your missing my point...having a stock or covered airbox isn't going to make a difference...its going to be nearly impossible to drop the IAT temp down to ambient temperature. Given the amount of air being fed into the airbox (given it an air raid or stock) there is going to be a physical limit as to how far its going to be over ambient temp.

Thats why its hard to determine if your seeing an improvement with a intake on a dyno since its sucking in warm air...but if you have a cover, your going to limit the amount of air that can get into (and out of the box)the box.
 
Scott13SHO said:
ShoBoat said:
"I tend to disagree, I personally have seen the difference in only 10F on the IAT can make on my car, I tested this at the track. Of course you want as much air as possible with the least restriction. However colder air is more dense and produces more power at less boost. Which in turn is easier on the engine. Just my 2 cents.


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Your missing my point...having a stock or covered airbox isn't going to make a difference...its going to be nearly impossible to drop the IAT temp down to ambient temperature. Given the amount of air being fed into the airbox (given it an air raid or stock) there is going to be a physical limit as to how far its going to be over ambient temp.

Thats why its hard to determine if your seeing an improvement with a intake on a dyno since its sucking in warm air...but if you have a cover, your going to limit the amount of air that can get into (and out of the box)the box."


I'm not taking about dyno results. I am talking about real world results that I and others have on this forum. We have proved time and again that more air doesn't mean more power. If your CAI is sucking hot air from the engine compartment it's going to make less power period. The idea behind this mod and the one that I did was to reduce this effect by combining the additional flow of the Airaid and drawing air from outside the engine bay. Does it make a huge difference, no not really. But it does make a difference, As per the results posted on this thread. Are we a little OCD possibly, but 1/10 of a second is the difference between a 12 second pass and a 13.

Here is a video that explains my point, even on the dyno this effect is true.

http://youtu.be/gCi2yo4UqPI


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I just love the fact that you guys are game to try things out for yourself and prove it one way or the other.  That's dedication!
 
Scott13SHO said:
Your missing my point...having a stock or covered airbox isn't going to make a difference...its going to be nearly impossible to drop the IAT temp down to ambient temperature. Given the amount of air being fed into the airbox (given it an air raid or stock) there is going to be a physical limit as to how far its going to be over ambient temp.

Thats why its hard to determine if your seeing an improvement with a intake on a dyno since its sucking in warm air...but if you have a cover, your going to limit the amount of air that can get into (and out of the box)the box.
Click to expand...

For me at least this isn't about trying to get to ambient. Its about seeing what is more efficient. Most here are not after added power with CAI as many people have seen otherwise. People do like the sound of a CAI (or sounds you can hear with the stock box gone ;) ) We know that the open style CAI kits have shown a marked drop (worse) on 1/4 times for some people here. I feel that's due to the hot air being sucked in till the car gets moving.

Technically the more air moves the warmer it gets and as a ram air effect is also a form of compression that will also raise the temp of the air charge. Without a cooling system there is no way to get ambient to match the IAT levels.

Like I said, this is about what is a more efficient option. (I'm still leaning towards stock. ;) )
 
^^ exactly, the only real  way to measure this is the delta between Ambient and IAT1 on the street to see if you are heading in the right direction. This is the reason we keep talking about ambient VS IAT1. At WOT at the track I data logged with both my modified K&N and the stock box. And it was plain to see how the 2 setups reacted to both heat soak and then WOT. The K&N would not drop as fast as the stock box. Even at 100mph. The stock box was able to pull  a quicker time with less boost and less knock (by reading knock retard). There is an over emphasis on flow, it seems that the stock box flows more than enough for a tuned SHO. That said it still miss the sound from my K&N. :(


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kinder said:
Scott13SHO said:
Your missing my point...having a stock or covered airbox isn't going to make a difference...its going to be nearly impossible to drop the IAT temp down to ambient temperature. Given the amount of air being fed into the airbox (given it an air raid or stock) there is going to be a physical limit as to how far its going to be over ambient temp.

Thats why its hard to determine if your seeing an improvement with a intake on a dyno since its sucking in warm air...but if you have a cover, your going to limit the amount of air that can get into (and out of the box)the box.
Click to expand...

For me at least this isn't about trying to get to ambient. Its about seeing what is more efficient. Most here are not after added power with CAI as many people have seen otherwise. People do like the sound of a CAI (or sounds you can hear with the stock box gone ;) ) We know that the open style CAI kits have shown a marked drop (worse) on 1/4 times for some people here. I feel that's due to the hot air being sucked in till the car gets moving.

Technically the more air moves the warmer it gets and as a ram air effect is also a form of compression that will also raise the temp of the air charge. Without a cooling system there is no way to get ambient to match the IAT levels.

Like I said, this is about what is a more efficient option. (I'm still leaning towards stock. ;) )
Click to expand...

My comments are specifically about the K&N Typhoon.

I ran at the strip non stop for an hour and a half straight, towards the end beginning IAT's at the line were over 140

By the end of the runs they were at ambient with the OEM box. The Typhoon was NEVER able to recover from those levels.

It's not just the heat of the open cone, the metal tube also absorbs a bunch of heat

Removal of the stock bellows hurts air velocity and that smooth surface actually causes more friction slowing down and heating up the air. Tuner Boost has a lot of info about this in his throttle body thread.

The OEM setup is ugly and muffles the music from the twins, but IMHO it is efficient, well engineered, and our best option for performance so far.
 
Looks awesome, some L brackets, nuts and machine screws would be able to attach it. I would use JB weld to attach the brackets to the Airaid.


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If your looking for a way to secure the plexiglass to the mounting brackets I would suggest using these or something similar.
http://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=276

 
I would cut a V in the top of the bottom gasket where it crimps on the bends.  It will fluff back up when bent and not collapse.
 
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