SP 534 not gapped- what are the cons?

[2010SHOtime]

Just wanted to see what are the cons to not gapping the spark plugs? I did mine but not really knowing why but just because everyone says to do it. So I'm just curious what the cons are if they're not gapped at .30

Thanks!

 

[ecoboostsho]

You can Google it for a ton of info but in brief improper gap can cause spark plug fouling, poor MPG, misfires, and accelerated plug wear.  When you increase the boost you also need to decrease gap to prevent "spark blowout"...

 

[2010SHOtime]

Yeah that makes sense, thanks!

 

[SHOdded]

Main thing to remember when re-gapping is not to touch the easily damaged center electrode.  Not enough mass there to begin with.

 

[markssho]

I just put in a set of these this weekend. I checked the gap first and all 6 were gapped correctly at .03.
However, the original platinum plugs ranged from .027 to .038. With 44k miles on them.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

 

[SHOdded]

0.027?  Were they testing your car with 20 psi at the factory???  Shouldn't have to check plug gap when you buy the car new, but might be worth it especially if any symptoms of uneven performance are noted.

 

[BiGMaC]

I love how everyone mentions "misfires" without noting that detonation is also prevented with the .03 gap on the SP534 or equivalent.

 

[ecoboostsho]

I love how everyone mentions "misfires" without noting that detonation is also prevented with the .03 gap on the SP534 or equivalent.

Well you just did so we are all good now!

From NGK's site...

A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and, although the factory will typically set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

 

[2010SHOtime]

I love how everyone mentions "misfires" without noting that detonation is also prevented with the .03 gap on the SP534 or equivalent.

Well you just did so we are all good now!

From NGK's site...

A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and, although the factory will typically set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

Great info, thanks!

 

[shoman04]

I love how everyone mentions "misfires" without noting that detonation is also prevented with the .03 gap on the SP534 or equivalent.

Well you just did so we are all good now!

From NGK's site...

A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and, although the factory will typically set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

So IS .030 THE BEST GAP for car with(these MOD) METH,Down-pipe,X-pipe,2.5 exshaust /DynMax mufflers, and LMS METH TUNE?

 

[steve142857]

[/quote]So IS .030 THE BEST GAP for car with(these MOD) METH,Down-pipe,X-pipe,2.5 exshaust /DynMax mufflers, and LMS METH TUNE?
[/quote]
That's what mine are at following independant recommendations from my local speed shop and Livernois.

 

[shoman04]

So IS .030 THE BEST GAP for car with(these MOD) METH,Down-pipe,X-pipe,2.5 exshaust /DynMax mufflers, and LMS METH TUNE?
[/quote]
That's what mine are at following independant recommendations from my local speed shop and Livernois.
[/quote]Thanks Steve, As always I learn from the "MASTER JEDI of SPEED"!!

 

[Jtrain]

You want to make sure they're gapped right so you don't get the shutter of death (Not really death, but you go "what was that?"... )

Ignition is one of those things that people post and worry about way too much. If you got a tune, and you know how to gap your own plugs- do it. Other wise- spend 90$ on pre-gapped and learn how to plug them in yourself.

And never think about ignition again (Unless you're pushing 500whp)