Stock turbo efficiency..?
- Thread starter StinkinLinkin13
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StinkinLinkin13
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802SHO said:
Not running LMS tune. Not gonna name the tuner as a lot of you may already know... But I don't think it was their fault and won't lay blame. I actually was datalogging when it happened and nothing out of the usual in the log. It was still a relatively mild revision.
Crazy question:
Looking at the Turbo Waistgate shaft I noticed it has allthread and lock nut, meaning the travel and zero point of waist gate can be changed and calibrated.
Is it possible some of the turbos like my and some other guys with low boost are not calibrated and not closing all the way?
Looking at the Turbo Waistgate shaft I noticed it has allthread and lock nut, meaning the travel and zero point of waist gate can be changed and calibrated.
Is it possible some of the turbos like my and some other guys with low boost are not calibrated and not closing all the way?
SuperPete said:
In theory yes. If you are bored drop your DP's. Use compressed air with a regulator and start at 18 psi. Pressurize the actuator and see if it closes the wastegate flap completely closed. Back off the pressure and see when it cracks open. I am really interested to see what happens honestly.
I am not dropping my downpipe 
too much work.
Can I do same thing without dropping it?
Can I put 20PSI, close waistgate, put a mark on the shaft how far it went in, then undo C-Clamp, more it by hand and see if it's traveling pass them mark?
Is that possible?
What if ford has them calibrated to only close 90% to protect the turbos?
Thats possible, right?
too much work.Can I do same thing without dropping it?
Can I put 20PSI, close waistgate, put a mark on the shaft how far it went in, then undo C-Clamp, more it by hand and see if it's traveling pass them mark?
Is that possible?
What if ford has them calibrated to only close 90% to protect the turbos?
Thats possible, right?
SuperPete said:I am not dropping my downpipe
Can I do same thing without dropping it?
Can I put 20PSI, close waistgate, put a mark on the shaft how far it went in, then undo C-Clamp, more it by hand and see if it's traveling pass them mark?
Is that possible?
I would assume so. I say drop the DP's because so you can verify they are working correctly and seating flush.
I am not dropping DP, I still have nightmares of me putting PPE DP's in few months back, LOL
I got this, I have work cutout for me on Friday night, can't wait...
I will apply 20PSI to the actuator, get under the car, remove C-clamp, disconnect the shaft from the arm and see if I can move arm anymore to close position, if I can I will adjust the set-nut to that and call it good.
Thinking about it, you dont really need 20PSI, stock turbos are about 12 at max?
So even 15PSI will do the job
I got this, I have work cutout for me on Friday night, can't wait...
I will apply 20PSI to the actuator, get under the car, remove C-clamp, disconnect the shaft from the arm and see if I can move arm anymore to close position, if I can I will adjust the set-nut to that and call it good.
Thinking about it, you dont really need 20PSI, stock turbos are about 12 at max?
So even 15PSI will do the job
SuperPete said:
Starting pressure is arbitrary. Pressurize it enough for the actuator to fully engage the arm to move the flap to the fully closed position. At whatever pressure that is mark the rod. Start backing it off a psi each time and see when the rod moves back towards the starting position. From there adjust the adjustment piece to have it close fully with less pressure.
Not yet, let me figure this out, I will make a new post, make video of this and if it's proven that Ford eye-bowls the rod plus minus 10 it will be game changer.
For factory 10-12 PSI WG never closes full to produce pressure stock motor needs, so fine tuning the rod length is not important and not necessary for ford, it probably never reaches 50% duty cycle ether.
But if this is the case, that's why some people see 14PSI and other 18PSI at full closed WG
Give me couple of days to get this figured out and documented and we will have game changer here on the forum
For factory 10-12 PSI WG never closes full to produce pressure stock motor needs, so fine tuning the rod length is not important and not necessary for ford, it probably never reaches 50% duty cycle ether.
But if this is the case, that's why some people see 14PSI and other 18PSI at full closed WG
Give me couple of days to get this figured out and documented and we will have game changer here on the forum
Well, hate to bring bad news but it's absolutely impossible to do any adjustments to the WG with the turbos installed, even if I drop downpipes I can't get to the shaft to be able to adjust it, no way.
back turbo, maybe if you get yourself two super skinny long arms, front NO WAY
Sorry, no luck...
back turbo, maybe if you get yourself two super skinny long arms, front NO WAY
Sorry, no luck...