Turbo Blanket questions

aj hartman

New member
So I'm swapping a 3.5L EB into my 99 Mustang that I road race. So wide open throttle for extended periods of time. I want some input on turbo blankets. Is there a pre made one out there? What size are the turbos on this thing? I see stuff for T3, T4, T25... I'm new-ish to turbos so looking for ideas.
 
aj hartman said:
So I'm swapping a 3.5L EB into my 99 Mustang that I road race. So wide open throttle for extended periods of time. I want some input on turbo blankets. Is there a pre made one out there? What size are the turbos on this thing? I see stuff for T3, T4, T25... I'm new-ish to turbos so looking for ideas.

According to this they are Garrett GT15 series. I had one for my GTX2867 simply to keep engine bay heat down. I was pushing it at 27psi and could stop and put my hand on the blanket.

http://www.f150hub.com/specs/ecoboost.html
 
This is in reference to the PI Sedan which is essentially the same,  The EcoBoost engine uses two Honeywell GT15 turbochargers with water-cooled bearings. These water-cooled and oil-cooled turbos are quite unlike the turbos from the 1980s that were cooled only by engine oil. The EcoBoost turbo bearings are water-cooled in the same coolant loop as the engine to bring turbo temperatures down. The EcoBoost engineering design life is 10 years and 150,000 miles. Engine coolant is responsible for about 60 percent of the engine cooling, while engine oil handles about 40 percent of the cooling. The EcoBoost twin turbos are water cooled. Water cooling the bearings solved the problem. During normal operation, engine coolant is cycled through the center bearing. When the engine shuts off and the water pump stops, the coolant flow reverses and the EcoBoost uses thermal siphoning for water cooling. Coolant near the extremely hot bearing picks up heat, boils and flows away from the bearing water jacket. This pulls fresh, cooler coolant into the bearing water jacket, which picks up heat and cools the bearings. This cooling process continues silently until lower temperatures are reached, providing key-off protection for the turbo bearings. The V6 EcoBoost engine uses two turbos, one per bank. These fixed vane turbos operate in parallel, that is, they operate independently of one another. This is unlike Ford’s diesel truck engines that use a turbo mounted in series, that is a smaller, variable-vane, high-pressure turbo to feed a larger, fixed-vane, low-pressure turbo.

Smaller turbos also spool-up faster, allowing peak torque faster, and reducing (eliminating) turbo lag. By being mounted close to the cylinder heads, the NHV (noise, vibration, harshness) of the turbo operation is improved over older systems. Small turbos also reduce underhood heat. The overall effects of fast spool-up turbos, higher compression ratios, increased spark advance and the precision of direct injection increases torque. The EcoBoost engine has both more peak torque and more low end torque, i.e., direct injection produces a remarkable flat torque curve. The torque comes on faster and it rises higher. The EcoBoost engine produces 90 percent of its peak torque between 1,550 and 5,500 rpm. About 98 percent of all driving is between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm.  [u]Sorry for the long Post SHOdded & FoMoCo,thought some might benefit from.  Z
 
ajpturbo said:
BiGMaC said:
Wonder if trapping all that heat shortens turbo MTBF?

What is mtbf?

Keeping the heat in the turbine is supposed to help spool so the heat energy isnt lost

With our inadequate intercoolers I'd let the heat go. These small Garret turbos spool easily... And lower rpm with DPs.  But if you lower the intake air temps within the possible operating range every degree lowered is worth around an AWHP... Witness the gains with meth injection.
 
BiGMaC said:
ajpturbo said:
BiGMaC said:
Wonder if trapping all that heat shortens turbo MTBF?

What is mtbf?



Keeping the heat in the turbine is supposed to help spool so the heat energy isnt lost

With our inadequate intercoolers I'd let the heat go. These small Garret turbos spool easily... And lower rpm with DPs.  But if you lower the intake air temps within the possible operating range every degree lowered is worth around an AWHP... Witness the gains with meth injection.

Yeah maybe...but think of the surrounding components...a blanket or a shield is basically essential in my book...even a street car ran hard can make the turbos glow cherry red....all oem turbo cars have a type of heat shield
 
^---This

Heat was my main reasoning behind installing one on my old car. The turbo sat between the engine and the firewall. Electronics, fuel lines, the intake tube, and other critical components were all around it. The OEM K03 had a heat shield on it that I could not get off thanks to some genius idea of using Torx screws to hold it on. So I bought a turbo blanket, wrapped the downpipe, and applied DEI heat reflective tape to the intake pipe(for a feel good), and heat dropped quite a bit.
 
Frozen Blue said:
^---This

Heat was my main reasoning behind installing one on my old car. The turbo sat between the engine and the firewall. Electronics, fuel lines, the intake tube, and other critical components were all around it. The OEM K03 had a heat shield on it that I could not get off thanks to some genius idea of using Torx screws to hold it on. So I bought a turbo blanket, wrapped the downpipe, and applied DEI heat reflective tape to the intake pipe(for a feel good), and heat dropped quite a bit.

What blanket did you go with? And what size is our turbos? I see sizes like T3, T4, but have no idea what one would fit.
 
Sorry I should have clarified. The blanket I was talking about was for a GTX2867 on my old Focus ST.

Which 3.5 Ecoboost are you swapping in? A 3.5 Ecoboost from the F-150's or one from the Flex/SHO/Explorer line?

If you click the link from my post it shows the F-150 3.5 Ecoboost(longitudinal) uses Borg Warner K03 turbos. The Flex/SHO/Explorer 3.5 Ecoboost line(transverse) uses the Garrett GT15 series turbos.

Are you simply wanting to keep heat down? If so why not use the factory heat shields that come with it? It should do an excellent job of keeping the heat away from critical components. 
 
Open track/road race I would suggest against a blanket and focus more on correctly getting air flowing in and out of the engine bay.

Box in your radiator/oil coolers, then put a heat extractor on your hood similar to an 03/04 Cobra hood.  Or cut and install a GT500 heat extractor.

Doing this small things did WONDERS to my under hood temps and coolant temps when running hot laps on 100* days.
 
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