2010 MKS-T Flashing CEL and Missing

Also a flashing cel usually means the engine is cutting fuel to save the catalytic converters from damage. So you could have a bad fuel injector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
glock-coma said:
Also a flashing cel usually means the engine is cutting fuel to save the catalytic converters from damage. So you could have a bad fuel injector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Im thinking you got it. I swear everytime I unlock my car after its sits I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump priming in the rear unless this is the norm but to me it sounds exactly like a fuel pump prime.
 
I think the fuel pump priming runs off the dome light activation circuit, which would be the case with unlocking the car.
 
Darn oh well back to the drawing board !

On a side note my MPG has been a decent 20 mixed city driving since I have been taking it easy on her.
 
I've been battling a similar issue in my wife's 2010 Flex, although ours is MUCH more random.  It happens about once a month, maybe longer. 

Her's has done it twice rolling up to a red light, once rolling up to the end of our street, and once (my main cause for concern) driving down the interstate on a very windy downhill section.  Car will shudder very similar to the F-150 videos I have seen with the condensation issue, CEL will flash and the car has no power.  It will do this for about 10-15 second, return to normal, CEL will go away, and stores no codes.
 
Any buildup in the IC?  Have you checked to see if the knock sensor wires may be the source of the problem?
 
Haven't pulled the piping or IC yet, but yes, there has to be something.  I have oil residue on the OUTSIDE of the charge pipe heading to the TB.
 
I cleaned out my IC when I first bought the car.  At 27,000 miles there was already some build up.  Not a bunch, but enough to convince me that it needs to be checked every few oil changes and cleaned as needed.
 
sholxgt said:
I cleaned out my IC when I first bought the car.  At 27,000 miles there was already some build up.  Not a bunch, but enough to convince me that it needs to be checked every few oil changes and cleaned as needed.

How did you clean it?  I was thinking of taking it to a radiator shop and having them dunk it...

Mine has just shy of 100k.  At about 60k I got a new shortblock due to a cracked piston, which caused excess blow-by and oil everywhere.  I question whether the dealer was smart enough to clean things out when the had my car for months on end waiting on the new block...
 
Hmm possibly a split pipe, or a leak from the front turbo oil cooler line?  Rooting for the split pipe scenario.
 
FaSSt9602 said:
sholxgt said:
I cleaned out my IC when I first bought the car.  At 27,000 miles there was already some build up.  Not a bunch, but enough to convince me that it needs to be checked every few oil changes and cleaned as needed.

How did you clean it?  I was thinking of taking it to a radiator shop and having them dunk it...

Mine has just shy of 100k.  At about 60k I got a new shortblock due to a cracked piston, which caused excess blow-by and oil everywhere.  I question whether the dealer was smart enough to clean things out when the had my car for months on end waiting on the new block...

Man...I tried several methods using stuff that I cobbled together out of my garage.  First step is to use your dispstick to see if it even needs cleaning.  Mine came up with about 1/3" of oil, so it was time to take the next step.

I first tried a brake bleed kit.  No go.  Needs constant suction.  So, I then hooked a junky old vacuum I keep in the basement up to clear tubing with some plumbing parts I had around.  Sucked through a brake bleed kit reservoir to keep the oil from entering the vacuum.  It worked, but didn't quite get it all.  I then took a vacuum T and cut one side completely off, hooked the clear tubing to the bottom port and inserted into the IC.  Took my air hose with the blow gun attachment inserted into the cut off end of the T and blew.  It created enough of a suction on the clear tube/down portion to blow out the rest.  That part was messy.  Had wife hold shop rags and I blew the oil onto them.

Before I do it again, I think I'll pick up one of these to try...
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

Complete removal and cleaning would of course be the best method, but that looks like a LOT of work.
 
So today I finally got a code to stick long enough to be captured !  Merging into to traffic I got on her some and it happened as usual tossing her into limp mode and this time the CEL stayed lit after flashing for a few seconds. I always thought a coil pack would completely croak rather than it have sporatic issues. I have a coil pack and PCV on the way now so stay tuned !

Code - P0305 - #5 Misfire
 
Well new coil installed and light still on...

Guessing i need to move onto possible injector now. I have plugs gapped to .34 since my car is bone stock so guessing it cant be gaps. Is there a DYI on fuel injector replacement here by chance ?
 
So as I wait to order the injector I decided to go ahead and clean my MAP sensor having never done this. Im almost doubting the possible injector fault since my car starts easy and no smell of fuel so not sure if this would rule out a bad injector.

So pulled MAP and found it to be covered in oil, not drenched but def had oil on it and what looked to be a piece of an dense oil blob. I cleaned and re-installed reset battery and car is back to getting 20mpg without CEL P0305 mis fire now but still somewhat hesitating under WOT. I want to try and close my plug gap some from its current .034 to .030 perhaps to see if this changes but not sure if its worth the troubles. I now have 40k on the clock so possible the carbon build  up on my valves may be ugly. I am trying to rule out everything simple before I dive into the injector replacement...
 
Well, that is definitely progress!  Try cleaning the other MAP sensor as well, it is attached to the tube leading from the intercooler to the throttle body on the throttle body end.  If the intake MAP is covered in oil, it's a fair bet this one is as well.
 
So i got around to changing #5 injector today, took me about 2hrs going slowly. Was a tedious job but definitely something the average wrencher can do himself. The injector was pretty bad but even more shocked at the carbon buildup on valves with only 42k on the clock. I may have to open it back up for a valve clean with AMSOil power foam but verdict is still out on whether it fixed my miss as I haven't WOT yet.





 
Back
Top