2010 SHO died - Questioning Dealer Diag

84lsvette

New member
So the other day my 2010 SHO with 120k on the clock, never been modded or raced (never got around to it). Decided to just straight up die while driving. It died at a light. Started back up and went 1/4ish mile then died and would not restart. The dealer is telling me A. the high pressure fuel pump went out which makes sense. They also tell me the oil has coolant in it and the timing chain jumped/broke and the engine is junk. I am quite experienced in cars but new to the Ecoboost (only owned this car for around 7 months). Theres no way the timing chain or high pressure pump going out causes coolant to get in the oil (I saw no milkiness on the dipstick so I find this very hard to believe also) and I find it hard to believe that all of this happened at once instantly after running absolutely perfect with no warning signs/lights/etc. There were no codes on the car and no CEL. Wondering if there have been any reported problems like this or not. Unfortunately my first post is not about track times and is about my car dying :(. I'm just wondering if maybe the pump is just bad and the dealer is wrong with the timing. I can report more when I hear from the tech.
 
it ran perfectly time til the first time it died at a stop light where it was just idling and just cut out. Then it started up ok and drove fine for the 1/4 mile then had a stumble and died. Is it possible that the high pressure pump goes out, doesn't atomize the fuel and dumps fuel in the oil because it's flooding out? Don't know how that system works or if it just goes dry.
 
Water pump is timing chain driven, so yes it is POSSIBLE for coolant to get in the oil.  But like it is noted sbove, you should have experienced the car tunning rough at or before the event.  A quick look at the oil dipstick or coolant reservoir would easily confirm.

Favor fuel pump and or control module first, there should have been some codes set tho.  You can ask them if they checked.

Who is your servicing dealer btw?
 
No the referenced recall does not apply to 2010-12 SHOs, but could be a similar concern.  IF the HPFP goes out it is very noticeable with the engine running and covers removed.  It will sound rather lazy.
 
Blackhawk said:
Does that apply to 2010s?

sholxgt said:
Have you had the fuel pump module replaced per the recall?

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6600.0.html

I would have them start with that and see if the fuel issue is solved.  I'm not sure that you even need the pump.  Your no start symptom is identical to the problems caused by a faulty module.

My Bad!  It does not apply.  I would still want to make sure it's not the module.  The high pressure pump is mechanical.  I'm not sure it's common for a mechanical pump to fail all at once.  Anything is possible.

OP, have you noticed any decrease in fuel economy leading up to the no start?

Edited to add...reason I'm asking is my Dad had his HPFP go bad in a different type of car.  Happened at 17x,xxx miles and was not a sudden failure.  He noticed his fuel economy dropping and then got a CEL.  Took it in and the car had less than the correct amount of fuel pressure.  New pump and he's good again.

To me, that's the way a mechanical pump should die.  A sudden no start makes me think module or maybe the LPFP.  I've had fuel pumps die in cars before that resulted in an instant failure, but that was with electric pumps.  Maybe it's your low pressure pump and not high pressure?
 
Does the engine sound normal when trying to start it?  If the timing were off enough to keep the engine from starting, you would most likely hear that in the way the engine cranked.  If it's not building compression, it will spin fast.  If it's causing pistons to hit valves, it will be noisy.

-Rod
 
So after some research online I am thinking what has happened is the water pump took a dump and snapped or stretched the timing chain and dumped coolant into the oil causing the problem, which I have read is an ever growing problem with this engine design. Read quite a few posts with the exact same symptoms and outcome. I am going to get the car home and take a look myself to confirm this is what happened and see if the chain snapped, etc but I am guessing this is the most likely scenario. Pretty terrible design if you ask me.......
 
Hope you can find out what is going on!  I think tolerances have been underspec'd, causing these failures.  The overall design SHOULD work fine.
 
I have not heard of that to be an ever growing problem.

Might be jumping the gun to say it's a terrible design...You said you owned the car for only 7 months and it's a 2010 with 120k....I mean can you really confirm the operation and use of the car for the other 77 months???
 
How many times has the coolant been changed?  I believe Ford calls for 30,000 mile intervals.  These cars are maintenance hogs.  Can't treat them like a normal car and just run them.  They need regular fluid changes with OEM or better stuff.
 
Other maintenance items1
Every 20000 miles    Replace cabin air filter (if equipped).
(32000 km)
Every 30000 miles    Replace climate-controlled (heated and cooled) seat filter2.  Replace engine air filter.
(48000 km)
At 100000 miles    Change engine coolant.3
(160000 km)
Every 100000 miles    Replace spark plugs.  Inspect accessory drive belt(s).4
(160000 km)
Every 150000 miles    Change automatic transmission fluid.  Replace accessory drive belt(s) if not replaced within the last 100000 miles (160000 km).
(240000 km)

1These maintenance items can be performed within 3000 miles (4800 kilometers) of the last oil change. Do not exceed the designated distance for the interval.
2If your vehicle has climate-controlled (heated and cooled) seats.
3Initial replacement at six years or 100000 miles (160000 kilometers), then every three years or 50000 miles (80000 kilometers).
4After initial inspection, inspect every other oil change until replaced.
 
Thanks SHOdded.  I stand corrected.  With how quick it changes color (I know Ford says it's fine) I wouldn't run it that long.  But, then again, I also don't consider the PTU fluid to be lifetime.

Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I do feel these cars are maintenance hogs.

OP, let us know what you find and good luck with the repair.  Hope it's not major.
 
sholxgt said:
Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I do feel these cars are maintenance hogs.

Ha! Welcome to owning a SHO.. every SHO in the family has been a high maintenance vehicle since 1989 lol... At least the Gen 4 can be taken to any dealership..
 
sholxgt said:
How many times has the coolant been changed?  I believe Ford calls for 30,000 mile intervals.  These cars are maintenance hogs.  Can't treat them like a normal car and just run them.  They need regular fluid changes with OEM or better stuff.

Ford calls for changes at 105k and 150k.  At least for 2010's.
 
StealBlueSho said:
sholxgt said:
Maybe I'm overly cautious, but I do feel these cars are maintenance hogs.

Ha! Welcome to owning a SHO.. every SHO in the family has been a high maintenance vehicle since 1989 lol... At least the Gen 4 can be taken to any dealership..

So true!  Wasn't easy to find a shop to do the valve adjustment on my '89 back in '92. 

With heavy maintenance, that car still ran like new at 232,xxx miles.  Not sure how long the motor would have gone since that's when the pin walked out of the differential and grenaded the transmission.  Key to those cars and, I feel these, is following a strict routine of maintenance above what the factory calls for.

That's not my standard answer for all cars.  Wife's Honda has 176,000 miles.  We bought it new and have followed the suggested maintenance and the car has been trouble free.  I just wouldn't count on that to happen with a SHO.



 
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