2010 Taurus SHO TT Replacement in Garage

I just swapped out my turbos as well over the last few days. I pulled the axle instead of dropping the frame. I changed all the fluids ptu, rear, rad, oil. I have my own issues upon completion. Did it all on my back (have a tube chassis on my car lift)
 
Also not an expert here this is advice I received on my tread check your intercooler for buildup, that’s tomorrows project I also cleaned all oil from tubings
 
def PTU and intercooler.  But also regular checks for pooling oil in the turbo tract.  Might want to replace the PCV Valve assembly also as it is available as a separate part.  Use only a quality, low volatility full synthetic engine oil, especially if you see anything more than misting in the tract at any time.  While it is not a "fix", it at least is a major assist.  A catchcan from JLT or RXP might also be on the table in that case.
 
Torque specs are to late for me but I did it by feel. By feel I mean I roughly knew how hard the bolts were to take out and my car was spotless no rust no grime if my odometer didn’t say 150k I’d think the car had 20k on it. So I reinstalled everything by feel plus a weee not extra :)
Let the criticism begin lol
 
Will go by feel and then slight extra. Hasn’t failed in the past but coolant lines can be finicky. Under or over tighten and they leak. Hopefully will have time Monday night to start reassembly finally. Got everything unboxed and looks correct. Wanting to wrap this up in a week or so. Had to unexpectedly drag around the equipment trailer for 300+ miles this week..
 
I had to give the coolant lines on mine a little extra lovin several days after I did my turbos. They started leaking just enough to leave a couple of drips on the floor overnight. Been fine since then.
 
Everything is put back together, will add fluids and prime engine tomorrow. Typically I would pull the ECM fuse or crank sensor but am looking for some proven knowledge specifically regarding the SHO. As always much appreciated, this has been quite the learning experience!
 
I don't have 1st hand experience in this case, but I would pull both the fuel pump relay(s) and the COP fuse(s) to be sure there is no fuel OR spark.

I see fuel pump and PCM are on the same fuse/relay, so that may be a no go.  May have to disconnect the wiring directly.  The COPs however are on their own fuse/relay.

I believe there is information from when people have done compression tests that would be useful in this case.
 
SHOdded said:
I don't have 1st hand experience in this case, but I would pull both the fuel pump relay(s) and the COP fuse(s) to be sure there is no fuel OR spark.

I see fuel pump and PCM are on the same fuse/relay, so that may be a no go.  May have to disconnect the wiring directly.  The COPs however are on their own fuse/relay.

I believe there is information from when people have done compression tests that would be useful in this case.
Click to expand...

I will do some digging, fuel should be disabled because the pump connector behind rear passenger seat is disconnected..
 
Car is on the trailer and ready to go back to it’s owner. Really glad to be done with this. Thank you to everyone for their input, much appreciated!!
 
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