Ryan02Stang
New member
Good luck! Car looks great in those pics!
2013 MKS Ecoboost
- Thread starter sholxgt
- Start date
If they don't replace the whole valve cover, make sure they put a new seal in. Its $8 i think, and they just reinserted my old one then verified it didn't leak. I didn't know until after it was done so that agitated me. If you bought it from the dealership i'm sure they did work on it before they sold it. Wipers, air filter, oil change, brakes. All the things that make it a CPO. I'd ask the service manager. That's how i found out about the bad ptu. Was recommended replaced but they just didn't do anything about it.
L1gerZero said:
Thanks for the info! I should not have said no service before me. There was no service before the previous owner traded it in. Since then it got all of the normal things (wipers, oil, filter, rotors turned, etc) plus a new rain sensor and door panel touch pad.
I'm trying to figure out how to get a new PTU. At the least I want this one serviced. I asked the drivetrain specialist about it and he gave me the "Ford" response that it's not a serviceable unit, blah, blah, blah. I then asked him what he would do if it was his car. He said he would change the fluid immediately and frequently there after.
or recommend a place to get it done.Realized I never updated this thread. It took the dealer nearly two weeks to get one of the gaskets needed, but they have now replaced both valve cover gaskets, all 6 plug well seals, and the HPFP plate gasket. Still have the original valve covers.
I don't have the paperwork yet to get a full list of what they did, but it doesn't appear they changed the oil. I would think that an oil change would be automatic anytime there's a chance of contamination.
Looks to be sealed up. Hopefully, I will eventually get all of the mess cleaned up. There's oil in every nook and cranny. The mechanic did what he could and I have cleaned it twice this weekend. First with brake clean and then with simple green.
I don't have the paperwork yet to get a full list of what they did, but it doesn't appear they changed the oil. I would think that an oil change would be automatic anytime there's a chance of contamination.
Looks to be sealed up. Hopefully, I will eventually get all of the mess cleaned up. There's oil in every nook and cranny. The mechanic did what he could and I have cleaned it twice this weekend. First with brake clean and then with simple green.
SHOdded said:
It's like you are psychic!!!
My plan for the day was...
1. Install PPE catted down pipes
2. Change plugs
3. Install 170 thermostat
4. Install K&N drop in
5. Install 3 bar MAP
6. Flash with new tune
I am stopped at step 2. DP's changed and rear spark plugs changed, but stopped at cylinder #4 when I pulled the coil and found oil in the hole again with signs of leakage from the plug well seal. Checked #5 and it's leaking again also
So...new plan. Take car back to dealer AGAIN so they can inspect and re-order gaskets. Have them change the front three plugs while they do the repair. Then, hopefully sometime weeks from now, I can continue on my list and actually get this darn thing tuned.
Side note, has anyone done a write up on changing down pipes? I don't want to provide a "how to," but could give tips on the way I went about it and give a list of minimum tools required. I did them on my garage floor with hand tools.
SHOdded said:Sorry to hearNo HOWTO on the downpipes yet, to my knowledge. Tips & tricks would be most welcome! Especially if you have any pics you feel would illustrate an issue/problem area/workaround.
I always have mixed emotions. When I have a car without warranty, I live in fear of a major/costly repair. When I have a car with a warranty, I hate letting others work on my car.
I am not a mechanic in the least. I am a parts changer. If I would have fixed the leak the first time, the car would have gotten the new updated composite valve covers and EVERY associated part. My method would have been costly, but I bet I wouldn't have the leak again.
Figured I should update...
Dealer changed the front 3 plug well gaskets again. They said that Lincoln requires the gaskets to be changed twice before they escalate the problem to include additional parts/service. Fingers crossed it's sealed now.
They changed the 3 front plugs for free while they had it apart and, of course, gave the car a bath. Lincoln dealers really are pretty nice to deal with.
That allowed me to finish the steps above. 3, 4, 5, and 6 completed!
6 was interesting. After the reflash, the car was running horrible. Didn't want to idle and was sounding like a small diesel. Several emails back and forth with Torrie about the tune, map sensor, etc and all seemed to be fine on his end. The strange part was the the gas gauge was also reading that it had zero fuel. As in zero miles to empty.
I shut the car off and restarted it a few times and each time it showed I had more gas and the idle improved. By the fourth time restarting the car, the gas gauge read normal and the car started to idle fine.
I think I just have a finicky/slow learner car or something. All is good now and I'm comparing two different tunes.
Things are on track again with the S. Just hope the leak is gone so I don't have to undo the work for a dealer visit.
Dealer changed the front 3 plug well gaskets again. They said that Lincoln requires the gaskets to be changed twice before they escalate the problem to include additional parts/service. Fingers crossed it's sealed now.
They changed the 3 front plugs for free while they had it apart and, of course, gave the car a bath. Lincoln dealers really are pretty nice to deal with.
That allowed me to finish the steps above. 3, 4, 5, and 6 completed!
6 was interesting. After the reflash, the car was running horrible. Didn't want to idle and was sounding like a small diesel. Several emails back and forth with Torrie about the tune, map sensor, etc and all seemed to be fine on his end. The strange part was the the gas gauge was also reading that it had zero fuel. As in zero miles to empty.
I shut the car off and restarted it a few times and each time it showed I had more gas and the idle improved. By the fourth time restarting the car, the gas gauge read normal and the car started to idle fine.
I think I just have a finicky/slow learner car or something. All is good now and I'm comparing two different tunes.
Things are on track again with the S. Just hope the leak is gone so I don't have to undo the work for a dealer visit.
SHOdded said:
Completely agree! My first thought was that the program wasn't for a 3 bar map or that I had the wrong sensor. Drove the car on that tune after it settled down and all was good. I now have a second tuner's tune in the car and that reflash went smoothly.
For anyone that has the collision avoidance system...during the whole reflash time the bright red LED's flash in the windshield. It's an unsettling Site to have red lights flashing the whole time.
Curious, on the cars without that feature, is there some other lights that flash?