2014 Taurus SHO - Stunning Dyno Results Baseline + K&N
- Thread starter 14SHOCAR
- Start date
Definitely looks like a winner. Just as the K&N showed power gains on the dyno, but loss the gains in real world track testing...I think the MDesign has a fighting chance at the trackZSHO said:
I know my modded Windstorm takes on heavy heat soak after a few runs and sends me to the pits to let it cool off, and the brakes screaming no more.
Rich
SeriousFrank
New member
Out of curiosity, has anyone done this with the cold air intake setup? I was thinking of getting that wheb I get a SHO.
A couple of thoughts here guys (just for discussion):
1. I am very unbiased. I just am showing what I found on the dyno. Hood up / hood down will be something we will do next run.
2. There is a correction to that graphic with the K&N being sealed from the engine bay. I’ve confirmed it is NOT SEALED from the engine bay, but does a good job of separating the compartment compared to my other K&N setups I’ve had in the past.
3. The Mdesign results I am not super impressed. The filter on the K&N pass had SIGNIFICANT soot on it. My test was right from the K&N factory -- right out of the box. In the Mdesign video, the average peak HP was below 300 every run and a comparable amount of torque. I’m strongly thinking the soot has something to do with those numbers. With the new MDesign Intake, they measured 310 HP on their run, which was my lowest run even with the stock intake. Also my dyno pulls were in my top gear (6th). I think these runs in this test were run too quickly and not in the top gear to really judge what the output of the motor. The torque numbers were all over the place. You had a few 400’s 380s and 330s… I’m very confused what’s up with such a large number discrepancy. Just making observations.
4. With my friend’s access port, I will be doing internal air temperature and air to fuel tests at the track. I will also take the external temperature of the engine v.s. the K&N intake v.s. the ABS plastic parts of the intake system. My “theory” is still that there isn’t a difference in the temperature of the plastic vs metal components when the whole engine is hot.
5. I ordered the LMS Tuner + Thermastat + 3 bar + spark plugs this weekend. I’m totally STOKED to get these in and do another set of runs on the dyno! (I promise hood up and down this time) I gotta do “hood up” to actually do side by side comparisons with the first sets of runs.
6. After, are the cat back + downpipes. Ugh I cannot wait to get this all done! I do want to do it in steps to show the actual gains!
All Dyno Runs below:
1. I am very unbiased. I just am showing what I found on the dyno. Hood up / hood down will be something we will do next run.
2. There is a correction to that graphic with the K&N being sealed from the engine bay. I’ve confirmed it is NOT SEALED from the engine bay, but does a good job of separating the compartment compared to my other K&N setups I’ve had in the past.
3. The Mdesign results I am not super impressed. The filter on the K&N pass had SIGNIFICANT soot on it. My test was right from the K&N factory -- right out of the box. In the Mdesign video, the average peak HP was below 300 every run and a comparable amount of torque. I’m strongly thinking the soot has something to do with those numbers. With the new MDesign Intake, they measured 310 HP on their run, which was my lowest run even with the stock intake. Also my dyno pulls were in my top gear (6th). I think these runs in this test were run too quickly and not in the top gear to really judge what the output of the motor. The torque numbers were all over the place. You had a few 400’s 380s and 330s… I’m very confused what’s up with such a large number discrepancy. Just making observations.
4. With my friend’s access port, I will be doing internal air temperature and air to fuel tests at the track. I will also take the external temperature of the engine v.s. the K&N intake v.s. the ABS plastic parts of the intake system. My “theory” is still that there isn’t a difference in the temperature of the plastic vs metal components when the whole engine is hot.
5. I ordered the LMS Tuner + Thermastat + 3 bar + spark plugs this weekend. I’m totally STOKED to get these in and do another set of runs on the dyno! (I promise hood up and down this time) I gotta do “hood up” to actually do side by side comparisons with the first sets of runs.
6. After, are the cat back + downpipes. Ugh I cannot wait to get this all done! I do want to do it in steps to show the actual gains!
All Dyno Runs below:
14SHOCAR said:
You cannot compare vehicle A on dyno A to vehicle B on dyno B as there is a laundry list of discrepancy factors. If you were to go around town and dyno your vehicle you would get different numbers, dyno's are not consistent in that manner.
Some of these factors include:
Dyno models (Mustang dyno reads lower than dyno jet)
Gasoline quality/octane
Altitude
Vehicle
Ambient temp
Engine temp
etc.
SHOdded said:
That makes a bit more sense, the dyno test was done by a client therefore it is "his" filter so that threw me off. I am unaware of how much soot was on his filter, still not sure where the consensus that the clients filter had "ton of soot" on it came from though.
SHOdded is right. I probably used the wrong word here. I was meaning "dirty" -- I suppose soot is in reference to burned, whereas, I was referring to a big difference in coloration of the filter.SHOdded said:
SHOdded said:
I just saw the posts, so I assumed it was your dyno documentation. I have a good graphic from the you tube video you posted here of how the filter was dirty.
I'm not attacking you or the product by any means. I'm just an outsider making an observation.
From the K&N website:
"When Do I Clean My K&N Air Filter?
Cleaning your K&N Air Filter is not required if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your K&N air filter is fine and does not yet need to be cleaned. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the air filter, it is time to clean it. Check out these pictures of dirty and clean air filters to help determine if your K&N air filter needs cleaning.
K&N replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box can go up to 50,000 miles before cleaning is required and large conical filters on a K&N air intake system can go up to 100,000 miles before needing to be cleaned, depending on your driving conditions. If your K&N air filter is used in dusty or off-road environments, they will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your air filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible. "
Counter-intuitive to paper filter users, but there it is from the stallion's neigh.
http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm
http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning-pics.htm
Dirty K&N Air Filter that IS NOT ready to be cleaned
Dirty K&N Air Filter that IS ready to be cleaned
K&N Air Filter that has been cleaned and NOT oiled
K&N Air Filter that has been cleaned and re-oiled
"When Do I Clean My K&N Air Filter?
Cleaning your K&N Air Filter is not required if you can still see the wire screen on the entire air filter regardless of how dirty it may appear. If you have not experienced a decrease in mileage or engine performance, chances are your K&N air filter is fine and does not yet need to be cleaned. When the screen is no longer visible some place on the air filter, it is time to clean it. Check out these pictures of dirty and clean air filters to help determine if your K&N air filter needs cleaning.
K&N replacement air filters that fit in the factory air box can go up to 50,000 miles before cleaning is required and large conical filters on a K&N air intake system can go up to 100,000 miles before needing to be cleaned, depending on your driving conditions. If your K&N air filter is used in dusty or off-road environments, they will require cleaning more often. We recommend that you visually inspect your air filter once every 25,000 miles to determine if the screen is still visible. "
Counter-intuitive to paper filter users, but there it is from the stallion's neigh.
http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm
http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning-pics.htm
Dirty K&N Air Filter that IS NOT ready to be cleaned
Dirty K&N Air Filter that IS ready to be cleaned
K&N Air Filter that has been cleaned and NOT oiled
K&N Air Filter that has been cleaned and re-oiled
Leave it to you to dig up this info lol 
By the picture, I assume it's a "dusty environment" given the dust on the battery and other parts of the car. I guess we will just have to leave it up to the track times. I'm thinking of buying one of the Mdesign intakes to do "formal testing" on it. Given the number of additions and tests I have planned, I may need to start a paypal donation site hahah
By the picture, I assume it's a "dusty environment" given the dust on the battery and other parts of the car. I guess we will just have to leave it up to the track times. I'm thinking of buying one of the Mdesign intakes to do "formal testing" on it. Given the number of additions and tests I have planned, I may need to start a paypal donation site hahah
Like MDesign was saying, back to back runs, on the dyno or on the track are the best way to compare. Yes, you can provide SAE corrections for everything and standardize results, but when every hp/tq or every tenths counts, sometimes you just don't feel comfy using "corrected" data. Too many unaccounted-for variances possible.
SHOw-Me State
New member
Just as an FYI, I noticed the MDesign now has a 3M heat reflective lining too.
http://www.mdesignperformance.com/shop/mdesign-carbon-cold-air-intake
http://www.mdesignperformance.com/shop/mdesign-carbon-cold-air-intake
I have my results from the DYNO with my 93 octane 3 bar V8 tune by Livernois. The numbers looked WAAAAAAAAY off from what I would have expected with this tune. They were VERY lack luster. I'll try to get my video up, though, I do take my time with the videos to make them complete.
I also reached out to Livernois to find out what is going wrong. Their 80+AWHP and 80+AWTQ claims on the F150s are not even close to my results. I know there are different gear ratios, I know the vehicles have different engine positions, I know vehicles were dyno'd AWHP vs RWHP but... yeah. Not pleased. Stay tuned!
I also reached out to Livernois to find out what is going wrong. Their 80+AWHP and 80+AWTQ claims on the F150s are not even close to my results. I know there are different gear ratios, I know the vehicles have different engine positions, I know vehicles were dyno'd AWHP vs RWHP but... yeah. Not pleased. Stay tuned!
66 Galaxie
New member
Different turbos and different heads on the F150 make a significant difference.