acceleration dead spot

ZSHO said:
Blackhawk said:
When do they start winterblend gas?  I did just start to notice it in the past month or so.  It's to the point where I am considering detuning and taking it in to the dealer.  If it was the tune I would think I would have always noticed it.

ZSHO said:
I think its that winter blend gas,probably be best to send Torrie a log,probably need a tweak in the tune,sometimes they adjust the throttle blade at various points which they close and open slower to keep from having any issues like hesitation.  Z
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Based on this report the (winter blend)gasoline officially started on 9/16/15.  Z          http://www.atlasoil.com/Blog/Winter-Blend-Gasoline-is-on-its-Way Hope this helps any.
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Depends on your zone. NYC and Chicago zones started 9/15 or so. Philly, Baltimore and DC this week. I'm a truck driver who hauls ethanol.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 
ZSHO said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
Swing by my house please....
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S. you want to go 50/50 on the deal,BTW how much for the hole shipment.lol  Z
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Product cost about 12k for 7100 gallons plus fuel, tolls (NYC adds 250) and delivery charges...roughly about $15,200. Better have a big tank!

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 
brian.t.flynn.9 said:
ZSHO said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
Swing by my house please....
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S. you want to go 50/50 on the deal,BTW how much for the hole shipment.lol  Z
Click to expand...
Product cost about 12k for 7100 gallons plus fuel, tolls (NYC adds 250) and delivery charges...roughly about $15,200. Better have a big tank!

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
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I'm not paying much more than that at my local station.....

 
when stock ive had the pedal to the floor for 2-3 seconds once in a blue moon and nothing really happens then whoosh. may have been around 1600-2200. Tuned it was the greatest improvement. havnt been able to fix another issue so who knows.
 
after doing some research, I will check my intercooler. apparently there is a sludge/condensation issue on the ecoboosts, especially from the south. mine was born and bred in texas for 2 years before I brought it home to the northeast. looks like a simple drilling could solve my issue.
 
cseverens said:
after doing some research, I will check my intercooler. apparently there is a sludge/condensation issue on the ecoboosts, especially from the south. mine was born and bred in texas for 2 years before I brought it home to the northeast. looks like a simple drilling could solve my issue.
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I think you work for a Ford dealer correct?if so please do not drill any kind of holes on your car,its not a F-150,need to take a compressor type suction gun and have all that oil,waste,h20 sucked out properly from the CAC,mt dealer performed this procedure for free,.Z        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urMO7Z5d02k
 
I do work at a ford dealer. I do not have any services done on any of my cars anymore by my dealer. too many issues in the past. I use a different ford dealership for services. I am out of warranty, so I doubt it would be free.
 
Hey guys, try this next time you hit the dead spot, pull up on the brake pedal with your left foot, see if it starts accelerating.  I had this same thing, turns out my brake light switch was messed up, when the brakes are pressed (or in my case when the switch was acting stupid), at those rpm's i would give it gas and it would die, for me initially i found taking my foot off the gas then putting it back on it would correct the issue, then after like six months i finally figured out root cause.
 
Man I think you just nailed my problem because I have noticed sometimes when I park my brake lights stay on and I have to tap the pedal to get them to come off.  I never considered it happening while I was moving.

This would certainly be a lot easier to fix then and engine or transmission issue.

How did you fix the brake light switch?


boostedflex said:
Hey guys, try this next time you hit the dead spot, pull up on the brake pedal with your left foot, see if it starts accelerating.  I had this same thing, turns out my brake light switch was messed up, when the brakes are pressed (or in my case when the switch was acting stupid), at those rpm's i would give it gas and it would die, for me initially i found taking my foot off the gas then putting it back on it would correct the issue, then after like six months i finally figured out root cause.
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The brake light switch or stoplamp switch (P/N 8T4Z13480A/SW6559, I believe) or BOO/BrakeOnOff switch should be fairly easy to replace.  From the 2007 Edge FSM:

Removal

Disconnect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.
NOTE: The stoplamp switch will be difficult to remove if the switch plunger is not depressed. A slight rearward force should be adequate to depress the plunger.

With a light force (approximately 1-4 N [1-3 lb]), pull rearward on the brake pedal, rotate the stoplamp switch 45 degrees clockwise and remove the stoplamp switch.
Installation

CAUTION: It is very important to not press, pull or touch the brake pedal assembly during the installation of the stoplamp switch. Failure to follow these instructions may damage the stoplamp switch.

Without movement to the brake pedal assembly, install the stoplamp switch and rotate 45 degrees counterclockwise.
Connect the stoplamp switch electrical connector.
s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg


More images here
 
Some times the remote start feature is disabled due to a faulty brake pedal switch or low battery.  Z
 
Thanks, The switch is much cheaper then paying my warranty deductible, I was wondering if something else in the brake pedal mechanics was maybe binding when he fixed it.

 
On mine i was worried it was mechanical with the pedal, not the switch, however the switch was like 30 dollars i think, so i gambled and it paid off, took like ten minutes to change, and this was at least four months ago, no problems since :)

And let me tell you, the dead spot PISSED ME OFF TO NO END, I was ssssooo happy when this fixed it.
 
ZSHO said:
Some times the remote start feature is disabled due to a faulty brake pedal switch or low battery.  Z
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Any idea why the switch is involved, Z?  Is that the car thinking someone's in the vehicle?
 
ZSHO said:
Some times the remote start feature is disabled due to a faulty brake pedal switch or low battery.  Z
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There are actually quite a few dtc's that will disable it as well. Like when my vct cam solenoid failed.
 
It has aggravated me to no end, I was dreading putting the car back to stock to take it into the dealer.  When it happens it feels like a serious problem with the car yet there are never DTC's.  It never happened on the way home today to try pulling up on the brake pedal but I'll just order it since I've seen them get stuck on in the driveway.  Thanks again!


boostedflex said:
On mine i was worried it was mechanical with the pedal, not the switch, however the switch was like 30 dollars i think, so i gambled and it paid off, took like ten minutes to change, and this was at least four months ago, no problems since :)

And let me tell you, the dead spot PISSED ME OFF TO NO END, I was ssssooo happy when this fixed it.
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