AKEBONO Ceramic Pads

sholxgt said:
Macgyver said:
Primalzer said:
Seriously, when I worked the prices, even with all Motorcraft parts, it ended up being like $100 more than a standard rotor/pad swap. A little extra work, but WELL worth it, IMO. Hell, Rockauto even took my old non-PP calipers on core.

So thats all the extra it would be to do the fronts and rear with PP calipers. Rotors. Pads. ? Or $100 front and $100 rear.

Rear calipers are the same between '13+ PP and non-PP

Are you sure? The non-PP rotors are not vented, whereas the PP's are. Have not checked the part numbers though...

Unless you mean all '13+ vehicles. Everything <'12 besides SHO PP cars, had non-vented rears I believe.
 
Macgyver said:
Primalzer said:
Seriously, when I worked the prices, even with all Motorcraft parts, it ended up being like $100 more than a standard rotor/pad swap. A little extra work, but WELL worth it, IMO. Hell, Rockauto even took my old non-PP calipers on core.

So thats all the extra it would be to do the fronts and rear with PP calipers. Rotors. Pads. ? Or $100 front and $100 rear.

That's just for the fronts, I didn't feel like it was worth the time and effort to go through the rears, plus both my rear calipers are brand new Motorcraft units.

Here's the part number chart I used for the Motorcraft parts when I did them. A couple items of note: Amazon had the lowest shipping prices, then Rockauto, then Tasca. Probably should've included shipping. This was also 6+ months ago, so prices do fluctuate, so they probably are different now.

VNAQfhD.jpg
 
Primalzer said:
sholxgt said:
Macgyver said:
Primalzer said:
Seriously, when I worked the prices, even with all Motorcraft parts, it ended up being like $100 more than a standard rotor/pad swap. A little extra work, but WELL worth it, IMO. Hell, Rockauto even took my old non-PP calipers on core.

So thats all the extra it would be to do the fronts and rear with PP calipers. Rotors. Pads. ? Or $100 front and $100 rear.

Rear calipers are the same between '13+ PP and non-PP

Are you sure? The non-PP rotors are not vented, whereas the PP's are. Have not checked the part numbers though...

Unless you mean all '13+ vehicles. Everything <'12 besides SHO PP cars, had non-vented rears I believe.

Right.  I'm speaking only of '13+.  AFAIK, the only difference between PP and non-PP on '13+ cars are the front calipers and front and rear pads.
 
sholxgt said:
Primalzer said:
sholxgt said:
Macgyver said:
Primalzer said:
Seriously, when I worked the prices, even with all Motorcraft parts, it ended up being like $100 more than a standard rotor/pad swap. A little extra work, but WELL worth it, IMO. Hell, Rockauto even took my old non-PP calipers on core.

So thats all the extra it would be to do the fronts and rear with PP calipers. Rotors. Pads. ? Or $100 front and $100 rear.

Rear calipers are the same between '13+ PP and non-PP

Are you sure? The non-PP rotors are not vented, whereas the PP's are. Have not checked the part numbers though...

Unless you mean all '13+ vehicles. Everything <'12 besides SHO PP cars, had non-vented rears I believe.

Right.  I'm speaking only of '13+.  AFAIK, the only difference between PP and non-PP on '13+ cars are the front calipers and front and rear pads.

Got it, yeah and even the differences between the front PP and non-PP calipers is questionable. I believe the pistons on the PP's have a higher temp threshold, but they are physically the same size from what I can gather.
 
How are the Akebono pads vs stock PP SHO pads vs Hawk HPS?
The stock PP are ok. I've used performance friction aftermarket, Redstuff, Hawk HPS, PP stock and several others on my recent performance cars. Redstuff I had rotor issues, lasted 10 000 miles. Best luck I've had was with the Hawk HPS on several vehicles. I'd like to do the Hawks with my stock rotors with the vents, but if Akebono ceramic is better I would try them...any opinions?
 
avidmotion said:
How are the Akebono pads vs stock PP SHO pads vs Hawk HPS?
The stock PP are ok. I've used performance friction aftermarket, Redstuff, Hawk HPS, PP stock and several others on my recent performance cars. Redstuff I had rotor issues, lasted 10 000 miles. Best luck I've had was with the Hawk HPS on several vehicles. I'd like to do the Hawks with my stock rotors with the vents, but if Akebono ceramic is better I would try them...any opinions?

I'm on a few days with the Akebono ProACT ceramic fronts. Honestly, the bite is pretty much the same as the OEM semi-metallics. The ceramics maybe ever so slightly better bite, but very well could be my imagination. Either way, not a huge difference IMO. So far, the noise and the dust have been nill with the ceramics, which is mainly what I was chasing.
 
Primalzer said:
avidmotion said:
How are the Akebono pads vs stock PP SHO pads vs Hawk HPS?
The stock PP are ok. I've used performance friction aftermarket, Redstuff, Hawk HPS, PP stock and several others on my recent performance cars. Redstuff I had rotor issues, lasted 10 000 miles. Best luck I've had was with the Hawk HPS on several vehicles. I'd like to do the Hawks with my stock rotors with the vents, but if Akebono ceramic is better I would try them...any opinions?

I'm on a few days with the Akebono ProACT ceramic fronts. Honestly, the bite is pretty much the same as the OEM semi-metallics. The ceramics maybe ever so slightly better bite, but very well could be my imagination. Either way, not a huge difference IMO. So far, the noise and the dust have been nill with the ceramics, which is mainly what I was chasing.
I would give them a couple hundred mile break in period!!
The ceramic brake pads work better once there warmed up and you will notice an overall initial improvement in stopping power,enjoy. Z

Break-in/Bedding procedure below

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in
 
I should've said, I'm a bit over 100 miles in. A couple of days, especially a weekend, is a decent amount of miles for me.

I usually bed my pads doing 5-6 concurrent hard braking stops from 40 mph with 1/2 mile inbetween to keep the temperature down.
 
I wash my car twice a week, rims too SI I don't care about dust but I think the stock ones are not really dusty to me. I rather have better stopping power with no other compromises like squealing, pulsating , hard pedal or long warm up. Still leaning Hawk hps. Hard driven daily driver, dot 4 fluid and I have SS brake lines.
 
Here are the Motorcraft Performance package part numbers as you requested,hope this helps any.  Z  :)
I might try to dedicate a section or sticky this. Z  :hmmm:

13+PP-SHO

DG1Z2001F Brake Pads

DG1Z2200B Brake Pads

DG1Z1125C Rotors

DG1Z2C026A Rotors

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+pad,1684

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5808957&cc=1503823&jsn=10528

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3901566&cc=1503823&jsn=10539

(COURTESY) OF Megan from http://www.rockauto.com.

5% Discount Code: 3BA67137D2BE4A
Expires: December 21, 2017


Struts-Shocks,strut mounts/bearings,etc can be found below.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8310.0.html
 
I used the DG1Z1125C rotors for my upgrade swap.

I also used the DG1Z2001F semi-metllaic pads.

Fitment was great and performance was good. Only thing I will say is the DG1Z2001F pads create a lot of dust. I went to the Akebono ProACT ceramics, and they are of similar price as the OEM's, but the performance is a touch better and there's far less dust and noise.
 
Primalzer said:
sholxgt said:
Macgyver said:
Primalzer said:
Seriously, when I worked the prices, even with all Motorcraft parts, it ended up being like $100 more than a standard rotor/pad swap. A little extra work, but WELL worth it, IMO. Hell, Rockauto even took my old non-PP calipers on core.

So thats all the extra it would be to do the fronts and rear with PP calipers. Rotors. Pads. ? Or $100 front and $100 rear.

Rear calipers are the same between '13+ PP and non-PP

Are you sure? The non-PP rotors are not vented, whereas the PP's are. Have not checked the part numbers though...

Unless you mean all '13+ vehicles. Everything <'12 besides SHO PP cars, had non-vented rears I believe.


FYI, My 2012 SHO PP has non-vented rear rotors.
 
I just swapped my 2010 brakes to 2014 brakes with akebono pads, and I haven’t noticed any brake dust at all. Also night and day braking performance upgrade with the larger rotors all around.
 
Anyone have any experience with the Akebono Performance ASP pads for this car?  I've gotten over 70K miles off the original OEM brakes, and I'm just going to replace everything and flush the fluid, and I'm leaning towards the Performance pads over the ACT pads.
 
Years upon years ago and comparing to semimetallics.  The ACT pads sucked bigtime.  I had them put on because my service shop recommended them, but they were poor performers compared to the PF SMs I had.

No idea on the ASP pads.
 
I used Akebono once, they were ceramic metallic i believe, this was on a buick regal gs....they sucked, I changed them out to Hawk and found love...
 
I installed Akebono's ACT1611 on the front of my 2018 Explorer XLT (they get the 352mm HD front brakes, same as the SHO non-PP) and the Edge Code is FF. Stock edge code was FG, also made by Akebono (OEM factory). I didn't feel any improvement in braking performance. From day 1 of this 2018 Explorer, the braking was never very confident. Coming from a SHO and a Fusion Sport, I had to brake hard very early with the explorer to get it to stop where I wanted. I am going to try Akebono's ASP1611 pads in the near future, as those have a GG edge code and are supposed to be better for performance. The Akebono ACT1377B rear pads have a GG edge code FWIW.

Ford uses Akebono for their factory pads in many many many applications. My 07 Mustang GT's stock pads were all Akebono and were low dust and lasted damn near forever. Stopping power wasn't jawbreaking by any means. But they are soft on the rotors and the pads last a long time. Negative aspect is they have a tough time removing bad rust from the rotors and aren't the best for outright braking power.
 
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