BENDIX & WAGNER Rotors!
- Thread starter ZSHO
- Start date
Here are a couple of before and after Pics of the Rear Rotors for comparison. 
Need to bleed the brakes for good measures and found the Front Caliper had corroded and there was corrosion around the outer end of the caliper bore. Cleaning it up with a Dremel tool kit cured the issue of binding without delay.
Pics of the Calipers below.
The overall pedal feel is much firmer than before and will need to wait a couple of hundred miles for the brake in period. Z
Need to bleed the brakes for good measures and found the Front Caliper had corroded and there was corrosion around the outer end of the caliper bore. Cleaning it up with a Dremel tool kit cured the issue of binding without delay.
Pics of the Calipers below.
The overall pedal feel is much firmer than before and will need to wait a couple of hundred miles for the brake in period. Z
Front Calipers
Rear Rotors
avidmotion
New member
Wow, sexy rotors!
I liked the hospital n the 5.0 Hawks great pads. I like my current cost effective set up. UBC RK sport rotors PP pads.
I liked the hospital n the 5.0 Hawks great pads. I like my current cost effective set up. UBC RK sport rotors PP pads.
Vacuum bleeder,to bleeder screw! Zddlopes said:
$32.99
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
FYI-I received quite a few Pm on this setup and here is a Brief Update On the ACDELCO & Raybestos NEW “S-GROOVE” SLOT DESIGN Rotors and Hawk 5.0 Brake pads.
I installed this Brake Setup less than 2 weeks ago and just wanted to Break-in (Mate) these Brakes accordingly to manufactures Specifications before posting my initial impressions,while my experience has ultimately been Good thus far.
I must admit my initial thoughts were a bit disappointing because the Hawk 5.0 Brake Pads did not respond or Grip like the Stock Setup which gripped quickly with the slightest Touch while cold and the Hawk pads do require a bit more pedal pressure for quick stops,but do come through and stop on a Dime.
FYI-Beware that the OEM Stock Pads are Built to perform more on the Cold side versus High performance Brake Pads which perform lineal when Braking,so initially did not expect them to Bite like the Oem the or until Fully warmed up.
I noticed the past week the brakes are starting to Feel more aggressive as the days progress and gripped quickly with a moderate Pedal touch and are Performing much better than the first week which proves that the Bedding procedure sometimes may take weeks or up to 200-400 miles in order for the Rotors and Pads to start performing the way you would expect!
The only Negative so far is they are a slight Bit noisier than the Stock Setup when applying the Brakes Hard due to the “S-GROOVE” SLOT AFAIK
Conclusion- Its starting to get some of that initial Bite (Feel) that the Oem Pads had with Far less Brake Dust which is a Positive and overall a happy Camper with zero regrets.
I also performed a Brake system Flush once again using Motul RBF 600 Factory Synthetic Brake Fluid for a peace of mind. Z
If you have any further questions feel free to ask!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
![yTsRIQoh.jpg[img]](https://i.imgur.com/yTsRIQoh.jpg[img])
http://www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_rotors.php
Raybestos® R300 Rotors: LESS PEDAL EFFORT, MORE BRAKING POWER
FEEL THE ADVANTAGE OF NEW “S-GROOVE” SLOT DESIGNS ENGINEERED FOR STRONGER BITE, SMOOTHER BRAKING AND INCREASED PAD LIFE • The Best possible pedal feel thanks to maximized pad to rotor surface contact • Pad life increased up to 30% by preventing brake fade and promoting out-gassing • Superior “panic-stop” braking due to high-flow, clog resistant vane designs • Less prone to cracking that takes place on traditional drilled rotor designs SEE THE RESULTS OF TWO CORROSION-RESISTANT COATING FORMULATED FOR OPTIMAL COOLING, AND PREMIUM RUST PROTECTION • Premium appearance and longevity because protective formula covers entire rotor surface • Rust-free edges, vanes and rotor hat credited to all-weatherdefense polymer coating • Withstands 300 hours of saltwater exposure as proven by salt spray test regulation ASTM-B117 • Prevents edge lift by presenting the most favorable contact surface for a brake pad.
BRAKE TECH: BRAKE PAD & ROTOR BED-IN PROCEDURES
BRAKE TECH: HAWK BRAKE PAD COMPOUNDS (STREET)
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=316
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
I installed this Brake Setup less than 2 weeks ago and just wanted to Break-in (Mate) these Brakes accordingly to manufactures Specifications before posting my initial impressions,while my experience has ultimately been Good thus far.
I must admit my initial thoughts were a bit disappointing because the Hawk 5.0 Brake Pads did not respond or Grip like the Stock Setup which gripped quickly with the slightest Touch while cold and the Hawk pads do require a bit more pedal pressure for quick stops,but do come through and stop on a Dime.
FYI-Beware that the OEM Stock Pads are Built to perform more on the Cold side versus High performance Brake Pads which perform lineal when Braking,so initially did not expect them to Bite like the Oem the or until Fully warmed up.
I noticed the past week the brakes are starting to Feel more aggressive as the days progress and gripped quickly with a moderate Pedal touch and are Performing much better than the first week which proves that the Bedding procedure sometimes may take weeks or up to 200-400 miles in order for the Rotors and Pads to start performing the way you would expect!
The only Negative so far is they are a slight Bit noisier than the Stock Setup when applying the Brakes Hard due to the “S-GROOVE” SLOT AFAIK
Conclusion- Its starting to get some of that initial Bite (Feel) that the Oem Pads had with Far less Brake Dust which is a Positive and overall a happy Camper with zero regrets.
I also performed a Brake system Flush once again using Motul RBF 600 Factory Synthetic Brake Fluid for a peace of mind. Z
If you have any further questions feel free to ask!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.raysbestbrakes.com/raybestos_rotors.php
Raybestos® R300 Rotors: LESS PEDAL EFFORT, MORE BRAKING POWER
FEEL THE ADVANTAGE OF NEW “S-GROOVE” SLOT DESIGNS ENGINEERED FOR STRONGER BITE, SMOOTHER BRAKING AND INCREASED PAD LIFE • The Best possible pedal feel thanks to maximized pad to rotor surface contact • Pad life increased up to 30% by preventing brake fade and promoting out-gassing • Superior “panic-stop” braking due to high-flow, clog resistant vane designs • Less prone to cracking that takes place on traditional drilled rotor designs SEE THE RESULTS OF TWO CORROSION-RESISTANT COATING FORMULATED FOR OPTIMAL COOLING, AND PREMIUM RUST PROTECTION • Premium appearance and longevity because protective formula covers entire rotor surface • Rust-free edges, vanes and rotor hat credited to all-weatherdefense polymer coating • Withstands 300 hours of saltwater exposure as proven by salt spray test regulation ASTM-B117 • Prevents edge lift by presenting the most favorable contact surface for a brake pad.
BRAKE TECH: BRAKE PAD & ROTOR BED-IN PROCEDURES
BRAKE TECH: HAWK BRAKE PAD COMPOUNDS (STREET)
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=316
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85
The only cautionary note I would have with aftermarket fluid in 2013+ SHOs is that DOT 4 LV is specified. This fluid is low viscosity, and meant to improve ABS/traction control in lower temps. There are a couple of mfrs that make compliant fluid, but match up specs to be sure.
No LV (Love) ZSHOdded said:
Thanks Manu!
I used Pentosin on my German imports with Good results!https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/dot-4-lv-brake-fluid-1-liter-1224116
[BRAKE FLUID FOR COMPARISON]
Product Name
Dry boiling point
Wet boiling point
Motul RBF 660
(Track)
325 °C (617 °F)
204 °C (400 °F)
Motul RBF 660
Motul RBF 600
(Track/AutoX/HPDE)
312 °C (594 °F)
216 °C (421 °F)
Motul RBF 600
ATE Type 200
(Daily/AutoX/Light Track)
280 °C (536 °F)
198 °C (388 °F)
ATE Type 200
Pentosin Super DOT4
(Daily/AutoX)
265 °C (509 °F)
165 °C (329 °F)
Pentosin Super DOT4
BMW Brake Fluid
(Daily)
265 °C (509 °F)
170 °C (338 °F)
Genuine BMW Brake Fluid
ATE SL.6
(Low Viscosity) (Daily)
265 °C (509 °F)
175 °C (347 °F)
ATE SL.6
Pentosin DOT4 LV
(Daily)
265 °C (509 °F)
170 °C (338 °F)
Pentosin DOT4 LV
Rowe DOT4 LV
(Daily)
260 °C (500 °F)
170 °C (338 °F)
Rowe DOT4 -LV
PENTOSIN DOT 4-LV
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,brake+&+wheel+hub,brake+fluid,11389
SPEC'S
Size 1 Liter
Boiling Point =265°C/=509°F
Density at 20C 1062 kg/m³
Flash Point >130°C/>266°F
Ignition Temperature >200°C/>392°F
Kinematic Viscosity at 20C 12 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 40C 6.4 mm²/s
Kinematic Viscosity at 40C < 700 mm²/s
Melting Point >-50°C/>-58°F
pH Value Slightly Alkaline
Wet Boiling Point =170°C/=338°F
Color YELLOW AND CLEAR
When this gentleman "tested" viscosity above freezing, the flow of fluid wasn't all that dissimilar between types. Below freezing, however is where the difference was. Since you are in a state well known for icicles and the like, you can evaluate how it works for you. If you had motorcraft oem fluid in there, especially.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpMcG3WiN8M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpMcG3WiN8M
