AMSOIL

Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.
 
SHOdded said:
Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.

Mhmm. That's interesting but not sure. I have been using the 5w-40 for 20-30k miles and not once had a performance issue, burning, or anything of that matter.
 
SHOdded said:
Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.

When I ran Amsoil I used 0-30 exclusively, both SHOs

What I'm running now is a custom 7.5w-35

I did not switch due to any real or perceived issues with Amsoil.

We shall see how the oil analysis bears out.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
SHOdded said:
Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.

When I ran Amsoil I used 0-30 exclusively, both SHOs

What I'm running now is a custom 7.5w-35

I did not switch due to any real or perceived issues with Amsoil.

We shall see how the oil analysis bears out.

Think I should switch grades?
 
moem1090 said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
SHOdded said:
Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.

When I ran Amsoil I used 0-30 exclusively, both SHOs

What I'm running now is a custom 7.5w-35

I did not switch due to any real or perceived issues with Amsoil.

We shall see how the oil analysis bears out.

Think I should switch grades?
If it was my car in a cold climate I'd run 0-30 Signature.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
moem1090 said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
SHOdded said:
Panther is the only other person I know of considering 5w40.  Should not use above 5w30, I think, or you could end up jamming the phasers and possibly the turbo oil feed lines.

When I ran Amsoil I used 0-30 exclusively, both SHOs

What I'm running now is a custom 7.5w-35

I did not switch due to any real or perceived issues with Amsoil.

We shall see how the oil analysis bears out.

Think I should switch grades?
If it was my car in a cold climate I'd run 0-30 Signature.

Thanks man, ill go that route. I am about to head into Chicago's winter.
 
I run signature series 0W-30 in my car. Best of both worlds thinner than 5W in the cold but all the properties of 30 weight when warm. But the fact that I run that might make you want to run something else LOL
 
I hear of a LOT of guys going with the 0w/30 in their ecoboost's nowadays.

I'd stay away from the 40 though, lots of oil lines that are key in lubrication and heat dispersion in our ecoboosts.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 
ajpturbo said:
I run signature series 0W-30 in my car. Best of both worlds thinner than 5W in the cold but all the properties of 30 weight when warm. But the fact that I run that might make you want to run something else LOL

lol I have no hard feelings man. Now I am more inclined to getting 0w-30. Thanks for your input
 
You can run 40 weight oil if you are getting the oil hot enough so that it thins enough to lower oil pressure to what is required for the engine.....not many people understand that....

Oil pressure changes with viscosity....viscosity changes with temperature...you want the lowest viscosity that gives the proper oil pressure

Oil pressure is what really determines oil viscosity selection..if 2 identical cars ran 30 weight and 1 car was road racing , that car would have lower oil pressure...an increase in viscosity would increase oil pressure due to resistance of flow of the higher viscosity oil
 
Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z
 
ZSHO said:
Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z

Not if you are running the car so hard that the oil thins causing the oil pressure to drop.....the mfg is anticipating normal operation in which case they can properly recommend the viscosity....

You have to first understand what happens to viscosity when temperatures change.....the mfg recommended viscosity may become a problem if you are operating the car in extreme conditions
 
ajpturbo said:
ZSHO said:
Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z

Not if you are running the car so hard that the oil thins causing the oil pressure to drop.....the mfg is anticipating normal operation in which case they can properly recommend the viscosity....

You have to first understand what happens to viscosity when temperatures change.....the mfg recommended viscosity may become a problem if you are operating the car in extreme conditions
Wouldnt dirty oil being changed in longer intervals play a role.
 
As long as you keep the car temps reasonable, I don't see the need for running thicker oil.  These are not 100% aircooled machines, so you have SOME control over those conditions.  If you live in an area where the startup temp is going to be 120F, or -50F, modify the requirements for the LOW end of the spec to suit (for example, 10W30 or 0W30 instead of OEM 5W30).  That's been the usual tactic.  NOW, if you are adjusting for engine wear, you have a reason to go up the grade on the HIGH side of the spec (for example, 5W40 or 5W20 instead of OEM 5W30).

All this keeping in mind the VI, the Noack, etc.
 
OK  so am a relatively new ecoboost owner and realize the importance of running the right oil in turbo car. I have always ran mobile 1 extended performance in my previous vehicles so I started doing some research. I was thinking about Royal purple but ruled it out because the moly they use and I really narrowed it down to amsoil and mobile one. My biggest issue with Amsoil is the MLM or every dealer out there joe smo making youtube videos and non scientific tests to show how good Amsoil is, and that really turns me off to the product. Can anyone here (WHO IS NOT AN AMSOIL DEALER) give me some assurance this is a good oil, better than a mulitibillion dollar companies (mobile 1) product???

Thanks
 
Read about group iii and group iv oils...amsoil is a group iv...true synthetic not hydro cracked petroleum that is only called "synthetic" due to a loop hole that the federal government allows.....i feel like ive been lied to...i always though castrol sytec was good true synthetic ....lies...good for off the shelf compared to wolfs head and coastal lol...i think all mobil 1 is hydrocracked group iii petroleum ...amsoil is legit and affordable when used the proper way 

Most people change their amsoil too often including myself..i have yet to see a used oil analysis of amsoil signature series with less than 10k show exhausted product even with turbos and direct injection and ethanol blow by...most people say well it cant hurt and it makes them feel better to change it more often than required...group iv base oils are robust and nearly indestructible 
 
I have had several GM vehicles (suburbans yukons mostly) that have the oil life system, which if you believe the GM hype works. When I ran a standard mobile 1 oil I would get the oil light at around 6k miles, when I ran a jiffy lube special I would see the light at 4500 when I ran the mobile 1 extended life (15k) I would see the light at 11-12k. not sure if that's scientific but seems to me the extended life Mobile 1 consistently did better than others, I never had a chance to run amsoil in one. Some forums say Mobil1 or at lest certain weights are a group4 pao oil.
 
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