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Another disappointment at the track...
- Thread starter SHO-TYM
- Start date
Do you have access to a logger, or Torque? You might be getting a lot of KR out of the hole. That would explain the high 60s. The modded Airaid had reduced KR in comparison to the stock box. I would imagine it would be the same without the added seal. If you are not getting wheel spin and launching hard than something else is at play. Do you know what the DA was at the track when you ran?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
PokerMunkee
New member
What were other cars running? Always good to compare timeslips with other cars to gauge how everyone else is running in the same conditions.
I was talking with some others there, and they were having the same issues.... too hot and too humid. Temps were around 85-90 degrees, and humidity was around 65-75%. Just too hot to do well.PokerMunkee said:What were other cars running? Always good to compare timeslips with other cars to gauge how everyone else is running in the same conditions.
4DRHTRD said:To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
Sounds like I need to prepare a little better for my next runs. I am not too worried about the burnout issue, seeing as I don't think we can even do an effective burnout in these cars... but good to know for future racing with other vehicles. Thanks for the pointers.
If anything the little burnout we can do will help free the tires of any debris you may have picked up on the way back to the line. I am gonna try some next time to see.SHO-TYM said:4DRHTRD said:To help out a TON I would remove the engine cowl cover and put bags of ice (multiple) along the front, top and back of the intake and also on the intake piping/by the IAT sensor.
Give it an hour at least to cool between rounds or when you first drive in.
Make sure you don't cool it off too much because you can't do a burnout to bring up the temps so make sure you're up to around 160 for your coolant temps when you pull onto the actual track to race.
Sounds like I need to prepare a little better for my next runs. I am not too worried about the burnout issue, seeing as I don't think we can even do an effective burnout in these cars... but good to know for future racing with other vehicles. Thanks for the pointers.
This is a good clean off the tires "burnout"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_v39peqWVQ#t=61
Another one - outside the car:
Ford Flex Ecoboost drag racing 09 Cadillac CTS-V - Flex runs 12's!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_v39peqWVQ#t=61
Another one - outside the car:
Ford Flex Ecoboost drag racing 09 Cadillac CTS-V - Flex runs 12's!
Was just looking at the rules and tips from local dragway. It states that if you are on street tires, "DO NOT drive through the water box! Your treaded tires will pick up water in the treads, and when you do burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will then track water all the way to the tree, and water will be dripping down onto your tires, making them very slick! If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks, not treaded tires. Etc...."
Lapeer Dragway via the "readme for beginners" tab
Lapeer Dragway via the "readme for beginners" tab
Everytime I go to my local strip, they tell me to make sure to stay out of the waterSHOnUup said:Was just looking at the rules and tips from local dragway. It states that if you are on street tires, "DO NOT drive through the water box! Your treaded tires will pick up water in the treads, and when you do burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will then track water all the way to the tree, and water will be dripping down onto your tires, making them very slick! If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks, not treaded tires. Etc...."
Lapeer Dragway via the "readme for beginners" tab
Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
black99lightning
New member
TimmyATL said:Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
black99lightning said:TimmyATL said:Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
Just FYI..... Dave's 1/8 in a '12 non-PP SHO are 8.0-8.07.... LMS tune, DPs, Airaid, but not other performance mods and street tires.... Don't have a DA on those times ....
I will see what I get next time. I am waiting until 60 degree weather. I am running LMS 4+X with airaid, 3 bar, and new catless downpipes. I know I will be running better times next timeBiGMaC said:black99lightning said:TimmyATL said:Just a thought. I have seen a common factor with SHO owners that are not pleased with there track times. And its the 2.77 final drive ratio. Those of us with the 13 and up PP have a 3.16 which will make a decent difference. When it was colder in April I had a 1/8 mile times of 8.25, 8.22 and my last run of the night the car hook up good and did a 8.17. With just a LMS 93 V8 tune. Just some food for thought.
No doubt the PP cars are going to be quicker.
Just FYI..... Dave's 1/8 in a '12 non-PP SHO are 8.0-8.07.... LMS tune, DPs, Airaid, but not other performance mods and street tires.... Don't have a DA on those times ....
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