Bad rotor(s) giving symptoms of an out of balance wheel(s)?

[LostnEye]

In the other hand Like all summer tires, they are not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice!
I think the owners manual specifically states that the OEM Eagle F1'S are not recommended/intended to be driven under 40 deg temps!.  Z

The manual does and you can expect less grip, shortened tread life, and sometimes sidewall cracking if using summer tires in the cold. However no one is recommending to run them all year, a swap and a quick cautious drive to verify it is not something with the new tires/wheels would not cause any issues.

 

[derfdog15]

In the other hand Like all summer tires, they are not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice!
I think the owners manual specifically states that the OEM Eagle F1'S are not recommended/intended to be driven under 40 deg temps!.  Z

The manual does and you can expect less grip, shortened tread life, and sometimes sidewall cracking if using summer tires in the cold. However no one is recommending to run them all year, a swap and a quick cautious drive to verify it is not something with the new tires/wheels would not cause any issues.

^^Exactly what I was getting at. Also why I said to do so when it dry, and preferably low traffic, so that there are ample precautions in place. You only need to drive a little bit to verify if the issue persists with the summer setup or not. If it does not, you know it is wheel/tire related to the winter setup. If it DOES, then it is more likely suspension/brake/steering related.

 

[92BlackGT]

oh man, i thought i was on SHOForum while reading this

 

[ZSHO]

oh man, i thought i was on SHOForum while reading this

I guess we try to keep any such riff-raff @ bay!.  Z

 

[SilvererSHO]

Well, I had the car in the original shop last week Tuesday where I bought the tires and they spun all the tires on the rims to match the high side of the rim with the low side of the tire.  Supposedly, the hole for the valve stem is punched in either the high side or the low side (don't remember) of the concentric run-out of the rim when manufactured.  Then, you're supposed to mount the tire accordingly using the 1/2" diameter painted on dot that's on the tire's sidewall.  Supposedly, a couple of my rims had the high or low spot of the run-out in an area other than the valve stem location so they re-mounted the tires accordingly.  It's better now but I still get a tiny bit of vibration in a certain MPH range.  I don't know if they're just blowing smoke up my ass to try and make an excuse for tire(s) that may be out of spec or not.  I don't know how there could be that much concentric run-out on a steel wheel to make a difference.  I'll probably just get them re-balanced again when I rotate them.  I'm kind of regretting getting steelies when I could have just got some 18" alloys for about the same price.

I really don't know how these threads take on a life of their own sometimes.  Talk about things getting overblown.  Maybe my subject title was mistaken for rotors that had chunks missing, stress cracks and 1/8" of runout.  My brakes are fine, I've looked at them myself.  Well over 50% left on the factory pads, no scoring, no cracking or discoloration on the rotors and they're well within spec.  They don't even have a ridge on them yet.  They have a slight warp to them that comes and goes.  Typical of a lot of cars on the road.  I'll live with that 'till I upgrade the brakes.  No, there is no fire and blue smoke coming from them as I drive down the freeway and no, the chrome isn't peeling off of my rims.  My teeth haven't rattled out either because it was always a minor vibration at certain speeds and a weird feeling at about 30 MPH.  I never said otherwise.  That's why I didn't think it was ply separation because it never got any worse as I put any miles on and the tread looks perfect.  I also don't understand the "no big deal" attitude about driving in the winter on summer tires.  Yes I could put them back on and drive down my rural road at a moderate speed but the risk of cracking the tires all up is just as great whether I put 5 miles or 50 miles on them if it's cold out.  And by cold I mean what we refer to cold in MN which sure isn't 50F.  Did anyone read the links about summer tires in the cold weather?  And I already had the summer tires/wheels on the car and replaced them with what I have now and that's exactly when the problem showed up.  So by putting them back on the car I'd find out what I already know within probably 99% certainty.  It's not happening with those tires and wheels because they just came off the car.


Anyways, rant over and thanks for the ideas and comments.  Most of them....

 

[SHOdded]

Well, car guys being car guys, there's always some hijinx being pulled on the forums.  I do hope we here on EBPF have kept it down to a minimum, certainly this thread is a bit of an exception, and I hope you take it in that spirit.  People are often bound to their experiences, until an exception comes along to make them rethink, and hopefully add to their own knowledgebases rather than denying it.

Let's see if the "runout" thing is a phantom or for real. A specialty shop is probably the best bet TBH.  People who fix wheels for a living, day in/day out, are probably going to know what to eliminate and what to suspect.

Brakes ... so many variables here.  OEM rotors with non-OEM pads are usually the best combo for the 2010-12.  On occasion, the brake booster and master cylinder do fail.  Maybe these are early stage warnings that unfortunately fall within the variance zone of "normal".

 

[SilvererSHO]

Well, car guys being car guys, there's always some hijinx being pulled on the forums.  I do hope we here on EBPF have kept it down to a minimum, certainly this thread is a bit of an exception, and I hope you take it in that spirit.  People are often bound to their experiences, until an exception comes along to make them rethink, and hopefully add to their own knowledgebases rather than denying it.

Let's see if the "runout" thing is a phantom or for real. A specialty shop is probably the best bet TBH.  People who fix wheels for a living, day in/day out, are probably going to know what to eliminate and what to suspect.

Brakes ... so many variables here.  OEM rotors with non-OEM pads are usually the best combo for the 2010-12.  On occasion, the brake booster and master cylinder do fail.  Maybe these are early stage warnings that unfortunately fall within the variance zone of "normal".

I do hope we here on EBPF have kept it down to a minimum, certainly this thread is a bit of an exception, and I hope you take it in that spirit.

No, don't take me wrong.  I have no complaints to file here.  Great forum!

 

[ZSHO]

FYI - there is always a report to MOD on every page screen if necessary! 
Best of luck on a viable solution. Z

 

[92BlackGT]

...And I already had the summer tires/wheels on the car and replaced them with what I have now and that's exactly when the problem showed up.  So by putting them back on the car I'd find out what I already know within probably 99% certainty.  It's not happening with those tires and wheels because they just came off the car...

curious for the reason of the thread then

 

[SHOdded]

Brainstorming is the reason.