Boost leak fixed! No more traction!!!

I love your videos Mike!  The gauges.  Feel like I am there with ya! 
 
At least your 0-60 time is better than the last run!  Boost seems a little down?  I think you were able to hit 23.1 before.
 
I'm enjoying your videos Mike. I don't understand what the shft 1 and shft 2 values are telling you though. Is there a quick explanation?  I also wonder if we all need to be watching for boost tube splits in our rides or if your mods have contributed to the "split ability"?  I hope that now that we know....., that the suspect area is easy to see if you know where to look.
 
What I want to know is what is up with that lean afr?!?!?! I know direct injection can run leaner at wot than port injection but damn! You were at 10.9 there for a while! Most boosted direct injection engines were crazy to run low 12's to high 11's... blows my mind ( and hopefully not your engine!)
 
Larrylu said:
I'm enjoying your videos Mike. I don't understand what the shft 1 and shft 2 values are telling you though. Is there a quick explanation?  I also wonder if we all need to be watching for boost tube splits in our rides or if your mods have contributed to the "split ability"?  I hope that now that we know....., that the suspect area is easy to see if you know where to look.
Click to expand...

STFT 1 and 2 are short term fuel trims for bank 1 and bank 2.
 
bnoon said:
What I want to know is what is up with that lean afr?!?!?! I know direct injection can run leaner at wot than port injection but damn! You were at 10.9 there for a while! Most boosted direct injection engines were crazy to run low 12's to high 11's... blows my mind ( and hopefully not your engine!)
Click to expand...
Lower numbers is richer, I'm very rich right now, need to get that sorted out.

Sent from my phone with lots of misspelled words...

 
It seems to me that running rich at this point in your testing is a "Good Thing".
Are you tracking DI  FRP?  If so, how is it holding up? That was always my biggest fear.  BAP and Methanol Spray helped, but I still always worried when lambda spikes might show up.

How do you keep the AWD system from shutting everything down?

The night I got my 12.904, I had my system shut down on 9 of 12 runs. Always happened at the top end of 1st.  When I left it floored, it came back on with a .5 loss in 1/4 mi time, but little effect on speed.

That's when I went to the front Nitto 05R DR's, which at my performance levels solved my issues.
 
EcoBrick Bob said:
It seems to me that running rich at this point in your testing is a "Good Thing".
Are you tracking DI  FRP?  If so, how is it holding up? That was always my biggest fear.  BAP and Methanol Spray helped, but I still always worried when lambda spikes might show up.

How do you keep the AWD system from shutting everything down?

The night I got my 12.904, I had my system shut down on 9 of 12 runs. Always happened at the top end of 1st.  When I left it floored, it came back on with a .5 loss in 1/4 mi time, but little effect on speed.

That's when I went to the front Nitto 05R DR's, which at my performance levels solved my issues.
Click to expand...
Bob the high pressure fuel pump is in the middle of the video.
I am also having top of 1st gear issue, BAD issues. I need to get that taken care of, hopefully the super sticky Hankooks I ordered will fix it, if not I'll look at your option. :)
Another thing I'm looking at is a low boost circuit for first gear. I think I've found an OSS to MPH converter I can use then feed it to the AMS500 boost controller. If I can get out of the hole on the street I should be good.
For the track I'm looking at some 17" slicks ASAP. :)
 
Since I am looking at the upgraded turbo's myself this year, can either you (4DRHTRD) or Darrell, please provide dimensions/measurements and/or clarification/location of the pipe that split on you guys?

I'd obviously like to get that ordered up ahead of time, so when I am ready to do install my end, and can take care of that at the same time.

Please?

Thank you :ok:

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 
bpd1151 said:
Since I am looking at the upgraded turbo's myself this year, can either you (4DRHTRD) or Darrell, please provide dimensions/measurements and/or clarification/location of the pipe that split on you guys?

I'd obviously like to get that ordered up ahead of time, so when I am ready to do install my end, and can take care of that at the same time.

Please?

Thank you :ok:

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
You'll need a 1.75" to 1.5" silicone reducer just like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HPS-1-5-Reducer-Coupler-Silicone/dp/B004O9UXO6

You'll want some T clamps to go with that as well, you can't reuse the stocker on the bottom and the top clamp is a plastic ring.
 
Sorry... I didn't look at the latest video. 

I agree that lowering boost at the top of first gear would be ideal.  When I was running my 3 bar sensor, I saw my highest boost levels at the top of 2nd gear, but traction wasn't an issue at that point.  The night I was seeing ignition cut off or fuel cut off, not sure which it is, I did everything to clean and heat up my tires.  The other thing that was likely making matters worse for me was the smaller diameter tires. At the time I was running Conti DW's - 255-45-18 which gave me an effective axle ratio of around 3.40.  It was a bit cold for them that night.

With the SCT tuner, what are you logging to get the actual boost #?  I always have to calculate it afterwards.
 
EcoBrick Bob said:
Sorry... I didn't look at the latest video. 

I agree that lowering boost at the top of first gear would be ideal.  When I was running my 3 bar sensor, I saw my highest boost levels at the top of 2nd gear, but traction wasn't an issue at that point.  The night I was seeing ignition cut off or fuel cut off, not sure which it is, I did everything to clean and heat up my tires.  The other thing that was likely making matters worse for me was the smaller diameter tires. At the time I was running Conti DW's - 255-45-18 which gave me an effective axle ratio of around 3.40.  It was a bit cold for them that night.

With the SCT tuner, what are you logging to get the actual boost #?  I always have to calculate it afterwards.
Click to expand...
I use this column:
tip prs boost kpa|1|224|73|0
Then apply the number to this calculator:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/presskpapsicvt.html
Then subtract 14.7 for ambient pressure to come up with actual boost.
It's MUCH easier to use torque with the video plugin like I did. I need to get a faster OBD2 adapter though, I'm starting to see some lag.
:)
 
I use the TIP # and divide by 2 and subtract 14.7 (I usually use 15).

So if my TIP reads 62, I subtract 15 from 31 which gives me approx 16 psi.

Am I using a different TIP # than you?  Am I doing this wrong?
 
Oh duh, I knew it was richer. Not sure what I was thinking.  :bangin: Good job getting it to run right. I know you can do it!
 
EcoBrick Bob said:
I use the TIP # and divide by 2 and subtract 14.7 (I usually use 15).

So if my TIP reads 62, I subtract 15 from 31 which gives me approx 16 psi.

Am I using a different TIP # than you?  Am I doing this wrong?
Click to expand...
I'm getting to the point where I only use SCT to verify knock, I use Torque for everything else, the video recorder works so great that SCT just slows me down and the interface is good for logging but not for instantaneous verification of changes. I will continue to use SCT for virtual dyno though. :)
 
Needmoreboost said:
Boost leaks can be a bitch when trying to track them down.  They can also make your tuning a nightmare.  Glad it's running good.  :)
Click to expand...
still fighting them >:(

Sent from my MZ609 using Tapatalk 2

 
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