BoostfoSHO 2015 SHO Build thread!

lamrith said:
BoostfoSHO said:
StealBlueSho said:
Sounds like all that’s left is to up the spray....I am unfamiliar with DOs kit... can you adjust the pump to spray more without changing the nozzle?

This is why people should just order the Alky kit from Alky Control... it just works... every time....


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I have a Frankenstein kit builts from devils own nozzles hoses pump housing and fittings. And snow pump and controller. I think my system has always been working I was just under the wrong idea of nozzles I'm sure going to a higher no7 I'm sure it will solve the problem 🤞

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Why not go to the 10 they recommend rather than going for the minimum?  If you are going to do it, do it right and make sure you have the meth spraying that they recommend rather than scraping by and wondering.  Minimum is not the goal imho when it comes to kits like this.  I love to save a buck, but not at the sake of undersizing things.  It's $25, get the recommended make sure it is dialed in and working as expected, then you can think about dropping the size to 7.  You COULD have an issue elsewhere, but with undersized nozzle there is no way to know.
I got both nozzles the 7 and 10 I'm gonna log with both. I'm sure I'll stick with the 10 cause the outside temps have been over 100° everyday.

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BoostfoSHO said:
StealBlueSho said:
Hmmm... are you still running that add on for vacuum line on top of the intake?

It positions the map sensor up higher..


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No I removed that back when you told me that may be the issue... I'm leaning towards not enough spray. Maybe nozzle too small.

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If it is in fact not enough spray then the flow rating of the nozzle is way off as is the gauge you have that reports the flow. Because according to the nozzle rating you are spraying a TON. In a way you can kind of care less about the cooling if the knock sensors were adding spark due to the octane. And if you were showing expected STFT's and getting the spark added but just didn't see the cooling it wouldn't be a huge deal and you could guess that it was an atomization issue.

But you have little change to the STFT's AND little to no cooling....I can't imagine a way you are under nozzled with the flow you are saying you have and not seeing a change in STFT's.

I've seen 200-300cc/min give STFT's in the .8X range.
 
AJP turbo said:
BoostfoSHO said:
StealBlueSho said:
Hmmm... are you still running that add on for vacuum line on top of the intake?

It positions the map sensor up higher..


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No I removed that back when you told me that may be the issue... I'm leaning towards not enough spray. Maybe nozzle too small.

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If it is in fact not enough spray then the flow rating of the nozzle is way off as is the gauge you have that reports the flow. Because according to the nozzle rating you are spraying a TON. In a way you can kind of care less about the cooling if the knock sensors were adding spark due to the octane. And if you were showing expected STFT's and getting the spark added but just didn't see the cooling it wouldn't be a huge deal and you could guess that it was an atomization issue.

But you have little change to the STFT's AND little to no cooling....I can't imagine a way you are under nozzled with the flow you are saying you have and not seeing a change in STFT's.

I've seen 200-300cc/min give STFT's in the .8X range.
I just bought a gauge to test once and for all the pump and see what PSI it's spraying vs what the rating on the nozzles is. I've tested the pump several times and it sprays I just need to make sure now that it's pumping out at least 200psi to match the rating on the nozzles.

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Hey guys so I've been having a bit more knocking than I'm comfortable with between +2 and +3

I have been getting code p2098
P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2 what could be the cause of this p2098?

Is that the code that is supposed to pop up for catless downpipes?
I thought for catless is code p0420 or something like that.



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Got this in the mail today. 70mm throttle body with a tap for the BOV.
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Got it installed today, tap for the BOV

Quick question. When spraying meth which of the fuel trims should be the one cutting back fuel the LTFT or STFT ?

I've noticed my LTFT drop to .80 while my STFT remains at 1.0 is this correct or should it be the other way around?
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So it's been a while since I posted but I've got a few things since I was last here.
I finally got the meth figure out and tuned I went to the track with a GH meth tune and my best was 12.6 with a 6k DA at 95degrees.
A bit disappointed honestly I was hoping lower 12s but I guess with that DA can't really expect much more. I've seen other SHOs run 12.8 with just a 3bar tune and a drop in.
So I took a 600 mile trip and I noticed that on long distance after parking over night the next morning on start up there was a huge cloud of white smoke smelled like nothing but burning oil. I checked my oil and noticed it was a bit overfilled  so maybe it was burning excess oil because it only did it that one time. But that was enough to get me to do the following...
I ordered about a week ago the xdi30 hpfp and ATP +2, turbosmart wastegates (not sure if I'm gonna end up using them or not). Waiting on pump and Turbos to arrive. I already sent my cores and ATP has received them now I'm just impatiently waiting.

I'm also considering getting the DW injectors, do you guys think there will be any benefit to getting the injectors as well?
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How many miles on your SHO.  If the numbers are getting up there, you could possibly justify dropping some for the DW injectors as a way to get new parts in there.  But full usability probably will come with a built block or all out E85 setup.
 
SHOdded said:
How many miles on your SHO.  If the numbers are getting up there, you could possibly justify dropping some for the DW injectors as a way to get new parts in there.  But full usability probably will come with a built block or all out E85 setup.
I've only got 42k miles... Built motor is not to far down the line maybe sometime next year... I didn't go with the xdi60 because I was told the cam can't handle full E85... So I didn't go that route maybe I should have done some more researching?

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With a properly upgraded fuel system, I believe you can run E85, if I am remembering EcoPowerParts' Flex buildout correctly.  Longevity is a completely untested factor though at least on the transverse platform AFAIK.  The big brouhaha with E85 has been variable quality at the pump, and actual pumping limitations of the stock fuel system. 

Because EPP had a custom port/direct injection setup, a custom ECU was required.  Would be sticking with DI here, so I dont see the need for a custom ECU unless there are limiting tables in play. 
 
SHOdded said:
With a properly upgraded fuel system, I believe you can run E85, if I am remembering EcoPowerParts' Flex buildout correctly.  Longevity is a completely untested factor though at least on the transverse platform AFAIK.  The big brouhaha with E85 has been variable quality at the pump, and actual pumping limitations of the stock fuel system. 

Because EPP had a custom port/direct injection setup, a custom ECU was required.  Would be sticking with DI here, so I dont see the need for a custom ECU unless there are limiting tables in play.
Maybe it's something to look at I know he's got an upgraded fuel system for sale in his website I'll look into it later. For now the Turbos and hpfp will do till I get the built motor.

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Mainly you would need, and again, I might be misquoting/not an expert, an upgraded intank fuel pump basically an auxiliary fuel pump, and the fuel lines rated for full flow e85.  Then the rest of your plans should fall into place.
 
SHOdded said:
Mainly you would need, and again, I might be misquoting/not an expert, an upgraded intank fuel pump basically an auxiliary fuel pump, and the fuel lines rated for full flow e85.  Then the rest of your plans should fall into place.
Yes I've read about an intank boost a pump. Just haven't had much time to look into finding one.

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So this arrived today.

After watching the installation video and reading the instructions I didn't see anywhere where it explains how to bring the cam lobe to BDC. Any help would be appreciated. How can I tell the piston is at the lowest point ?
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NOTE: The cam lobe for the fuel injection pump must be at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) for the fuel injection pump installation.

Remove the fuel injection pump roller tappet.
- Inspect the fuel injection pump roller tappet, refer to Fuel Injection Pump Roller Tappet Inspection in this section.
Remove the fuel injection pump mounting plate.
Remove the RH front wheel and tire, refer to Section 204-04 .
Position aside the RH fender splash shield, refer to Section 501-02 .
Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until the fuel injection pump cam lobe is at BDC

StealBlue can do this with his eyes closed :D
 
SHOdded said:
NOTE: The cam lobe for the fuel injection pump must be at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) for the fuel injection pump installation.

Remove the fuel injection pump roller tappet.
- Inspect the fuel injection pump roller tappet, refer to Fuel Injection Pump Roller Tappet Inspection in this section.
Remove the fuel injection pump mounting plate.
Remove the RH front wheel and tire, refer to Section 204-04 .
Position aside the RH fender splash shield, refer to Section 501-02 .
Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft until the fuel injection pump cam lobe is at BDC

StealBlue can do this with his eyes closed :D
Nice thank you. Good thing I'm gonna have my coworker a Ford certified tech help me with it all. And we have the Ford computer because our company has about 100 Ford fleet trucks so we got Ford techs ftw

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