Burping radiator after 170 tstat change?

Figured it's better to add on to this older thread vs. making a new one...

So, I changed my thermostat to a 170 and have a concern.

My temperature is varying between 170 and 184 degrees.  Within a couple mile stretch of road it will vary from 172 to 178 without accelerating or idling.  Just driving a constant speed.  Is this normal?  Those of you monitoring your cars, do you see the temperature constantly changing?  The gauge on the car is even moving up and down.  Ambient temp is around 92 degrees.  I'm concerned that I may have an air pocket.

I have done several rounds of the 3500 rpm cycle with the reservoir higher than the engine without the level of coolant in the reservoir changing.
 
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and repeat the above steps as needed and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z
 
ZSHO said:
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how much I lost.  Was a significant amount, but not measured.  I'd say roughly a quart lost and a quart put back in.

Temp gauge not going past half.  Varying from several notches below half up to a hair under half.

I also tried the crack open reservoir method, but that caused the coolant level to rise which leads me to believe that the air sound is it drawing air in not letting air escape.  Reservoir level is just above full cold when cold.

I'm tempted to just take it to the dealer and have them perform a coolant flush/refill since I'm at 30,000 miles.
 
sholxgt said:
ZSHO said:
It definitely sounds like you may need to burb the system but IMO the coolant and fluctuating temps sound normal,how much coolant did you loose in the process?..Did you add the same amount you lost?...also make sure the (temp gauge)does NOT go past the Half way marker on the cluster especially when driving...1) start the car up and set the heat on to high and let her idle for 10-15min and then shut her off and wait ten min and slowly,gently release the coolant reservoir cap to let any air out and quickly tighten it back up..2)Drive the vehicle for 10min while carefully monitoring the temp gauge so it does NOT exceed the halfway mark and repeat step (one)over until any and all air pockets are gone,there is also a special tool if just in case things do not go accordingly,BTW would make sure the coolant reservoir is a hair above the (full)mark (Top)line and best of luck and keep us updated.  Z
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how much I lost.  Was a significant amount, but not measured.  I'd say roughly a quart lost and a quart put back in.

Temp gauge not going past half.  Varying from several notches below half up to a hair under half.

I also tried the crack open reservoir method, but that caused the coolant level to rise which leads me to believe that the air sound is it drawing air in not letting air escape.  Reservoir level is just above full cold when cold.

I'm tempted to just take it to the dealer and have them perform a coolant flush/refill since I'm at 30,000 miles.
Click to expand...
I would also emphasize to check for any such leaks around the t-stat housing and make sure those three 8mm bolts are nice and tight but patience is the key motive when performing this procedure.  Z
 
Thanks for the suggestions. 

Only two little 8mm bolts, but both are tight.  No coolant leaks.  Install went smoothly.
 
ZSHO said:
The 160 stat uses the oem gasket and if you do have a new gasket would definetly use the NEW one.  NEW GASKET AFFIRMATIVE.  BTW the nipple(valve should be facing up(2400hrs)  Z
Click to expand...
Why is it important for the T stat to be orientated to 2400, Nipple up?..I installed mine maybe 3 weeks ago, not paying attention to orientation of it, I haven't  had any temp issues. Heavy Driving puts my Temps at about 215-225.
 
If your tstat had a "jiggle valve" it's supposed to be installed at 12 o'clock
12cd9d05e64cdc0ee041c4989fb66efc.jpg
 
Air will always rise, and the best place for it to be "untrapped" is at the top, hence the placement of the jiggle valve at the 12 o'clock position.
 
I just bought a 170* thermostat from Torrie and it doesn't have the air bleeder or the jiggle valve !. Does it matter what position I install this one ??. Thanks
 
joe raptor said:
I just bought a 170* thermostat from Torrie and it doesn't have the air bleeder or the jiggle valve !. Does it matter what position I install this one ??. Thanks
Click to expand...

Mine didn't either.  Confused by the above information about the Reische thermostate instructions mentioning a nipple.  My instructions didn't mention an install orientation and I didn't see a nipple.  Maybe they have changed the design?
 
I don't think the 170 deg thermostats that Torrie is selling are from Reische.  His website doesn't mention Reische at all.

At any rate, if you don't have a jiggle valve or a bleed notch, install it in any position (except backwards, of course).
 
Mine came from EcoPowerParts and is a Reische.  I did not see a nipple and my instructions do not mention install orientation.  The instructions are extremely basic.  I can scan and post if anyone cares.
 
sholxgt said:
Mine came from EcoPowerParts and is a Reische.  I did not see a nipple and my instructions do not mention install orientation.  The instructions are extremely basic.  I can scan and post if anyone cares.
Click to expand...
Please do.
 
Nice that they include suggested fan settings, but the install instructions are pretty basic.  I should check with my tuner to see if those are the fan settings he used. Ahemm.

scan0003.jpg
 
I purchased my Reische 170 stat a few years back and it had some type of air bleeder type valve on top and clearly was made in Germany and not quite sure if there is an updated version IDK...probably be wise to monitor overall coolant temps if you have any such Doubt's IMO.  BTW have noticed many sites selling the Rat 170-stat for far less and IMO would avoid,no dis intended.  Z..
 
Must be different from the one I got, Z, it says USA, 56mm, and STC on it (Stant Thermostat Corp, I believe).  Their website says they use USA parts & modify it by hand, so maybe they changed their process?






Apparently the 3.5L engines of this vintage use the same thermostat from factory?  The MOTORCRAFT RT1228 {#1X4Z8575A} 190 Degree Thermostat
 
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