Burping radiator after 170 tstat change?

2010SHOtime

New member
Hey guys,

Maybe this is a silly question but I just got done changeing out my tstat and now I'm curious how do I go about burping the system or if I even need to do it?

Thanks!
 
2010SHOtime said:
Hey guys,

Maybe this is a silly question but I just got done changeing out my tstat and now I'm curious how do I go about burping the system or if I even need to do it?

Thanks!

Refill the reservoir to max cold fill lin... start the car....Turn on the heater full blast... and drive around easy normal ... (not just idle)... for 20-30 min.  That usually does it.... refill the reservoir again and check it daily for a couple of days (likely won't need more).  The refill can be done with Water Wetter, recommended Ford coolant (see your OM), or distilled water
 
That's exactly what I did and it worked perfectly for me. No problem burping at all!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP
 
How or what is the easiest way to fill the reservoir tank after I swap out my tstat? I'm looking to do this once I get my car back out of the shop. And I would like as much info as possible. Additionally I just got my tunes as well so I'll be loading it up as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Parke on level ground.  Right side up on a curb or jackstand to create a high point.  Lisle SpillFree Funnel to add coolant to the degas/overflow bottle.  Then follow the "burp" procedure.  After cooldown, add more coolant as needed.
 
I just removed the tstat housing and pulled the stock tstat. There is a rubber oring on the stocker. I bought a replacement oring for the 160 tstat is that nescessary to place it in there with the 160 stat?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1d988ff5d5181d98f3fd5df2c9c20f7e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The 160 stat uses the oem gasket and if you do have a new gasket would definetly use the NEW one.  NEW GASKET AFFIRMATIVE.  BTW the nipple(valve should be facing up(2400hrs)  Z
 
Might as well use the new one since you bought it.  I used the one that was already in there and it worked fine too, but I just replaced it with an oem motorcraft. 
 
Well I installed the tstat and I wasn't aware that the nipple thing was supposed to be at the top. I guess I'll have to work on it again in the morning. I also failed at burping the system. Cold air when the heat is on becomes warmer if I rev to 2k rpm. Drove it around the neiborhood and it started to overheat. So I had to stop and turn it off and wait for it to cool to continue. Before driving I had the RS front wheel up on a ramp trying to burp the system. I guess it didn't work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ZSHO said:
The 160 stat uses the oem gasket and if you do have a new gasket would definetly use the NEW one.  NEW GASKET AFFIRMATIVE.  BTW the nipple(valve should be facing up(2400hrs)  Z

Btw why is the nipple supposed to be up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Definitely sounds like low coolant/air bubble situation.  You ran the blower at max with climate control on FULL HOT?  Sometimes you have to repeat a few times before it takes, but having the TStat point the right way is mighty important, so I'd take care of that first.
 
Yea had a pretty good amount spill while I was doing the swap. And yes I had the car running while passengers side was elevated with the air on the highest temp. It only got hot if I was idling at 2k rpms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you want to try with a spillfree funnel, that could do the trick in this case (it did for Rich).  YT has some videos on this:
! No longer available
! No longer available
It would be attached to the degas bottle/coolant reservoir in this case.  The nice thing is you have now automatically created a "high spot" in the cooling system without the need for jacking up anything!
 
I didnt even know you got your car back from the dealer after seeing your post help needed asap,how much coolant did you loose roughly(couple of quarts)if so while the car is COLD fill up the coolant reservoir to the top,then start up the car and let it warm up for ten min while your sitting and observing the gauge with the HEATER on full blast making sure the gauge does not exceed the half way mark,if so SHUT HER OFF and wait 15 min and with CAUTION gently turn the reservoir cap until you hear air being released and close it again,now drive the car for 5-10 min close to HOME while monitoring the gauge carefully,now upon returning home let her COOL of again for 15 min and gently open the reservoir cap to let some air out and close again,if the gauge did NOT EXCEED past the middle follow the steps above a couple more times later in the day,important to note is the next morning,DO NOT start the car,check the COOLANT LEVEL while the car is COLD,top off if necessary,follow the steps above the next day again,CLOSELY MONITORING the coolant level and gauge,you will find out PATIENCE IS THE KEY in this procedure,now need to get me a nice cup of JOE to wake up.lol  Z
 
Just got my car back Thursday evening. Took em 3 weeks to install a water pump. SMH. Im sure I lost a quart or two of fluids so I'm going to the store here soon to grab some antifreeze.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I just finished turning the tstat to the correct position. And I topped of the reservoir. Car has been running for about45 min with heat set to the highest setting. Still blowing cool air. But again unless I rev it to about 2k rpm it doesn't get warm. I need a good dose of patience for this car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top