CES light on

Screaming01l

New member
Ive been dealing with a CES issue now for a few months. Car throws a P0020 code every time I start it. I can clear it with my xcal and it will stay off, most of time, unless I'm in traffic and have to get around someone, then it occasionally throws the CES, If I let it go too long, P0022 Will be in the error logs.  What id like to know i9f anyone can post location schematic or link to one.  Called in to local for dealer and they'd have to order parts. Called over to Napa, and they said the SHO takes 4 of the OCV (Oil Control Solenoids). Cars tuned by Torrie.
 
Are you getting any clatter/clicking noise at startup?
That p0022 code is the code that gets thrown when you timing chain tensioners can no longer adjust to compensate for chain stretch.

Sometimes the oil passage holes get caked up in vvt solenoids and cause the p0020 code. Also the harness has been known to chafe and ground out.
 
There is a solenoid related to PO020. Z
[ Courtesy (BlackSHO)
C'S P0020, PPT HK-HKG checked voltage At C1452 non present. Checked fuse F67 in bjb ok, found circuit cbk 02 open between bjb vct 21. Traced wires found GN wire rubbed through by / near upper radiator hose. Repaired wire cleared DTC'S and performed self test passed. 1 WT* KIT- Terminal $12.66.

I would also recommend using a high quality Full synthetic oil such as Amsoil or Redline along with a Motorcraft Fl -500s. Z




http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5280.0.html
 
Always had good oil.  50k on the ODO.  Problem showed itself when coming down a dirt road (bumpy/vibration) from a vacation cabin.  No chatter no rough idle. Seems just a little sluggish, sometimes, at low RPM but temps here have gone way way up, 90's and 100% humidity, so that can play into the sluggishness
 
Sometimes it is a loose pin in the wiring loom to the VCT solenoid (bank 2 here).  So tug on the wiring to the plug, see if anything gives.

And definitely run good oil/filter with a reasonable OCI, because once the VCT solenoid passages get plugged, you have to replace the solenoids.  Maybe you can source the screen and rebuild them, but not a viable option usually.
 
I had that issue a couple of weeks ago, which was fixed under warrantee.  Not sure of the order of the codes, they may be reversed.
P0020 came up so I took it in to the dealer who replaces the VCT solenoid.  That took 3 days for a variety of reasons.  Drove it for 2 or 3 days fine and then P0022 came up.  Since that code basically refers back to the original code I took it back, not happy.  They fixed that, saying it was a wiring problem.
So, not sure if the original problem was a wiring related problem or not.  My guess would be the solenoid was bad and when he replaced it a connector wasn’t seated or something and it shook loose.
 
How many have actually done the repair themselves? Reason I am asking is, I have the original unit out and a replacement unit.  The original has no O ring in the top groove, but the replacement does.  I looked inside where the solenoid sits and it's not there either.  Oh and a big piss off to ford for not making the opening and gasket slightly larger so the repair could be done without pulling the valve cover. No friggin common sense..
 
Adding some info.  The Dorman version of this part had an o ring, but the one ford, which I'm using, didnt, so i figure it doesn't take one...lol
 
Interesting!  Did Ford forget them in at the factory or are they using the valve cover gasket as a seal? 

Anybody know if you can pull the vct solenoid without the valve cover, on the F150?
 
Nope,,no O ring. Seemed close to a machined fit. Nothing shows on the Ford parts sheet.  Wire was also broken inside the insulation seemed one wire was longer than tjebithernat the plug forcing the longer one to bend at an awkward angle. Car runs like new. Not sure how long these items have been an issue. It always had a strange surge since it about 13k miles.
 
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