Changed plugs...interesting

[jimmyducati]

I have a '10 SHO and replaced the plugs last month... Gapps were crazy from .025 to .045, leading me to think they don't do anything with gaps when the engine is built.. a tad disappointing when buying a $45k car if you ask me

I replaced them with the recommended NGK plugs, properly gaped and it runs smoothly now. Also wrapped and shielded that knock sensor wire that runs along the drivers side front head. It gets chaffed and can cause the timing to retard randomly.

A suggestion, on cars with some mileage on them (35k+) I would have some of the rubber boots that hold the spring that makes contact between the spark plug and coil on hand. 2 of mine were "fused" to the spark plug and had to be fished out with needle nose pliers, ruining them. They are only a few bucks a piece.

 

[n8rfastback]

Ive got 71k on stock plugs, i need to change mine out asap

 

[ivofe]

LMS just sent me an updated tune, I'll post the results.

 

[black99lightning]

70,600.  Changed the stock plugs with some new SP534s.  $3.99 each at Oreillys.  The gaps were 38 all around, and black.  Been running LMS 4+ forever.  I'll post pics soon.  Regapped he new plugs to .30 as they were all .32.  Started and idled very smoothly.  Took it up the road and it pulled nicely, not sure if any faster, but definitely smoother.  Question is why are the plugs black?

 

[Needmoreboost]

70,600.  Changed the stock plugs with some new SP534s.  $3.99 each at Oreillys.  The gaps were 38 all around, and black.  Been running LMS 4+ forever.  I'll post pics soon.  Regapped he new plugs to .30 as they were all .32.  Started and idled very smoothly.  Took it up the road and it pulled nicely, not sure if any faster, but definitely smoother.  Question is why are the plugs black?

SSSHHH...don't tell everyone about the Motorcraft (NGK) plugs that are 8 dollars per plug cheaper than the standard iridium NGK's.  LOL

Strange, mine where all pregapped at .030 out of the box.  Black is probably due to the direct injection and age of the plugs.

 

[TouchOfEvil]

70,600.  Changed the stock plugs with some new SP534s.  $3.99 each at Oreillys.  The gaps were 38 all around, and black.  Been running LMS 4+ forever.  I'll post pics soon.  Regapped he new plugs to .30 as they were all .32.  Started and idled very smoothly.  Took it up the road and it pulled nicely, not sure if any faster, but definitely smoother.  Question is why are the plugs black?

Too rich, the LMS tune hits 10.7/1 ratio often and on mine gets as rich as 10.2/1 at times.
The tunes are far too rich.

 

[curry67]

how much should a ford dealership charge for new plugs? i got quoted at $380 bucks to do this. With the plugs costing a few dollars a piece seems like a rip.

 

[DJE624]

It should be an easy job.  I checked and didn't find a "How to" for it.  Maybe somebody that has just done their plugs could do a quick write up.  Like how to turn the coils off, what tools are needed and how to get those pesky ones in the back.  The last time I did plugs was on a Chevy 350 back in '75.  LOL  I would like to do mine some time too. 

 

[TouchOfEvil]

how much should a ford dealership charge for new plugs? i got quoted at $380 bucks to do this. With the plugs costing a few dollars a piece seems like a rip.

HOLY CRAP!!!!! 380 for a plug change?
It really isn't hard to do. Only two kinda tough ones and as long as you just move a couple lines over they are easy enough. For a shop that should be a max of a one hour book time job. They are ripping people off big time at 380 bucks.

 

[curry67]

yeah it seemed steep. im gonna try another highly rated (google) dealership in a town north of my city. i feel ripped off all the time at ford service departments i dont know why.

 

[yowen]

If I get new plugs at the dealer will they put in the new Motorcraft SP 534 plugs? Or should I specifically ask for them? (I'm driving a 2010).

I will be tuning soon and shortly thereafter I'll be getting downpipes, would these be the right plugs to get in this scenario (gapped at .030)?

 

[black99lightning]

How to:

You'll need a couple of small flat screwdrivers.  Ratchet 3/8, 6" extension, 3" extension, swivel, and 5/8 sparkplug socket.  1/4 drive ratchet, extension, 8mm, and 10mm sockets.  Additionally a 3/8 drive 15mm deep socket, and a flexible magnetic pickup.  Lastly a 8mm ratcheting wrench, and anti-seize.

I run without the engine cover, but for those of you whom do, remove the oil filler cap and pull up the engine cover.  Remove the fuel rail distributor covering on front of engine, covers two of the front coils.  Use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the red part of the coil plug and pull it away from the coil.  Then you can push on the release tab(mine were difficult as it was cold and the plastics didn't want to play), and pull the plug off the coil.  Repeat on the other two fronts.  Use the 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3" extention and remove the coil bolt, one per coil.  On the middle front coil, you'll have to pry up the wiring harness out of its home on the valve cover.  Twist the coils to break them loose and pull up gently as not to damage the rubber boots.  Get the 3/8" drive ratchet, 6" extention and and the 5/8" sparkplug socket, and remove the spark plugs.  Gap the new plugs to .30" using a feeler gauge and put a light coating of anti-seize on the plug threads.  Reinstall.

On the back side is where the real fun comes from.  I moved the PCV tube out the way by squeazing the clip and pulling up.  I then rotated it towards the throttlebody.  Then unclip the harness that runs on the strut tower brace and put it towards the intake manifold.  Use the 15mm deep socket and the 3/8" ratchet and remove the brace.  Then use the 10mm socket to loosen the plastic pipe that runs on the driverside of the motor.  Remove the coil connectors the same way as the front, it will be more difficult as more parts are in the way.  I used the 8mm ratcheting wrench on the rear passenger coil and rear driver coil as it was difficult if not impossible to get a socket with swivel in that area.  On the passenger rear coil, unplug the connector to the BOV(?) and then you'll have to pry up on the hot pipe as you wiggle the coil out of it's hole.  The middle plug replacement is straight foward, the driver rear requires pressing the harness out the way but should be able to be done using the 6" extension(I believe).  On the passenger rear I used the 3"extension, swivel, then the ratchet.  Reinstall in opposite order. 

 

[black99lightning]

how much should a ford dealership charge for new plugs? i got quoted at $380 bucks to do this. With the plugs costing a few dollars a piece seems like a rip.

most of us have been able to do it within 1.5 hours.  Let's say "book time" is 2 hours, how much are they charging per hour?

 

[black99lightning]

If I get new plugs at the dealer will they put in the new Motorcraft SP 534 plugs? Or should I specifically ask for them? (I'm driving a 2010).

I will be tuning soon and shortly thereafter I'll be getting downpipes, would these be the right plugs to get in this scenario (gapped at .030)?

Not entirely sure.  If you're going to have the dealer install them, inform them that you want the SP534s and you want them gapped at .30.  Mine out the box were at .32.  I used a feeler gauges, not an Autozone circular tool as not to damage the electrode.

 

[bykr]

Thanks for the procedure,I've been looking for one.

Yowen-I'm using NGK 6510's which are one step colder than stock.$8.00ea with free shipping at Summitracing.com

 

[yowen]

Thanks for the procedure,I've been looking for one.

Yowen-I'm using NGK 6510's which are one step colder than stock.$8.00ea with free shipping at Summitracing.com

Whats the thinking in running a step colder?

Would this be advisable for a tuned/modded SHO?

 

[BiGMaC]

Thanks for the procedure,I've been looking for one.

Yowen-I'm using NGK 6510's which are one step colder than stock.$8.00ea with free shipping at Summitracing.com

Whats the thinking in running a step colder?

Would this be advisable fo

Thanks for the procedure,I've been looking for one.

Yowen-I'm using NGK 6510's which are one step colder than stock.$8.00ea with free shipping at Summitracing.com

Whats the thinking in running a step colder?

Would this be advisable for a tuned/modded SHO?

r a tuned/modded SHO?

With a tune it prevents knock and detonation.

 

[yowen]

Would this be advisable for a tuned/modded SHO?

r a tuned/modded SHO?

With a tune it prevents knock and detonation.

I will be running a livernois stage 4 + downpipes very soon. Sounds like I should plan on getting spark plugs too. Anything else you'd recommend?

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

70,600.  Changed the stock plugs with some new SP534s.  $3.99 each at Oreillys.  The gaps were 38 all around, and black.  Been running LMS 4+ forever.  I'll post pics soon.  Regapped he new plugs to .30 as they were all .32.  Started and idled very smoothly.  Took it up the road and it pulled nicely, not sure if any faster, but definitely smoother.  Question is why are the plugs black?

Too rich, the LMS tune hits 10.7/1 ratio often and on mine gets as rich as 10.2/1 at times.
The tunes are far too rich.

Black can be far from it just being rich, poor combustion can cause deposits as well, which being the plugs were at .038, I am not surprised they were black.

As for being "far too rich", I don't agree at all. what method are you using to determine this? what a/f standard? ethanol content of fuel? Pre cat? post cat? Also, there is more to these cars than many others, and we have reasons for what we do. It might go against conventional wisdom, but this is why we are able to do things with an ecoboost that no one else has.

 

[black99lightning]

pic of my plugs.  Have never had an issue with the way the vehicle ran.