Check engine flashing, fuel smell, limp mode, and now no start

W

wraitherx

New member
So looking for some guidance in where to look. Was driving home when the car all of a sudden went into limp mode and the check engine light started to flash. Now from previous experience this was a tell tale sign of a sever or multiple misfire. I was about 5 miles from home and decided to take it slow... coming to a stop and it would almost feel as if the car was about to die. So decided to have my buddy pick me up with his trailer and trail it the rest of the way home. Get home and check for codes and nothing. I mean nothing!  Tried to restart the car and nothing. Acted as if the battery was dead and then when it did crank it just kept cranking and then I smelled fuel. So for now I pulled the negative terminal off to see if the problem reoccurs and then I’ll go from there and hopefully a code pops up. Just seeing if anyone’s experienced this or thoughts on the issue.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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Fuel injector(s) leaking enough to get into the cats.  Mode $06 data helps pinpoint when no codes are yet set.
 
Here’s the codes
P0306
P0304
P0300
P00c6
P0087

Now the first three codes I had already assumed. The second two after researching has yet to find something to pinpoint to although a majority seem to think the 4th code is indicative of an injector. Car is bone stock other than drop in and was planning to change plugs next week. Thoughts?
 
You need to plan on changing injectors instead LOL.  But the codes seem to at least point to the LPFP and/or the FPCM instead of the injectors.  Yours is ripe to be the FPCM since there has been a recall on gen 5 modules, you would have to check owner.ford.com to see if your SHO is on the list.  Fairly inexpensive and easy to replace yourself in any case.

https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4974
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,6600

But the LPFP could also be suspect as noted in the thread above ^^^ and there was a recall for that as well on gen 5 SHOs.
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3836.msg84448.html#msg84448
 
I’ve got about 65k on the odo. I do remember bringing in the car for a battery change and they did the recall. I’ll have to double check that though.

After looking with my vin the only thing I have left
Is that extended warranty for the APIM

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That’s what I’m leaning more towards. I’m gonna pull the 3 and 6 plug here shortly to see if they are soaked in fuel which would lead me to believe injectors. Will report back after for future readings of other effected owners.


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5a9001acb808c1c2a68e4da0a4dc5da2.jpg


So pulled the plug out and sure enough it was smelling like fuel. Smelled down into the plug hole as well and a strong odor of fuel. Looks like I’ll need to replace the fuel injectors on both cylinders.


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Fuel injector stuck open... Causes fuel rail pressure drop. Went through the same thing earlier this year. Pull the plugs and you will hear and see the fuel injection spraying into the cylinder even with just ignition on. Avoid cranking to prevent hydrolocking... When the injector is stuck open in constantly sprays with key on until the fuel pressure is lost. Even after keyd off it will continue to dump fuel into the cylinder.

Edit for post at same time... Replace them all while your there. Pay a little more now. Avoid headache later.
 
@SL13, thanks for the reply!  And for Z and Shodded as well.

That was more on the lines I was thinking. I was due to change my plugs out next week and my oil as well and now it looks like I’ll be doing more than that. SMH.

So I’ll be replacing all 6 at the same time. Anything I need to watch out for or tips?  I’ve got the FSM from my 2010 and would assume that it’s pretty much the same but if you know the torque values of the manifold bolts that would be great. Also, are they reusable or TTY?  I’m more than likely going to document through the entirety to have for future reference for anyone.

Side note, it’s funny how when you want to do one thing another thing, like this, comes up. I just got my wheels back from powder coating and was going to finish putting them together when I got home until this happened. So now they are in the back burner. This money was supposed to go for my suspension and tires but not anymore

57edcf6b20441cf99540f0afcd33f252.jpg
fb890eeec4e84bb1fba56d2c825c61c4.jpg
16c2673db72163d30056ac2c515b30da.jpg



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wraitherx said:
@SL13, thanks for the reply!  And for Z and Shodded as well.

That was more on the lines I was thinking. I was due to change my plugs out next week and my oil as well and now it looks like I’ll be doing more than that. SMH.

So I’ll be replacing all 6 at the same time. Anything I need to watch out for or tips?  I’ve got the FSM from my 2010 and would assume that it’s pretty much the same but if you know the torque values of the manifold bolts that would be great. Also, are they reusable or TTY?  I’m more than likely going to document through the entirety to have for future reference for anyone.

Side note, it’s funny how when you want to do one thing another thing, like this, comes up. I just got my wheels back from powder coating and was going to finish putting them together when I got home until this happened. So now they are in the back burner. This money was supposed to go for my suspension and tires but not anymore

57edcf6b20441cf99540f0afcd33f252.jpg
fb890eeec4e84bb1fba56d2c825c61c4.jpg
16c2673db72163d30056ac2c515b30da.jpg



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Click to expand...
OOOO I can't wait to see those on your car, what are the specs of those?

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No problem. I know that feeling. When my injector crapped out I literally was doing my second pull with my brand new HPFP on a freshly installed E30 tune. My only advice is be patient take your time and install quality oem parts. You will need new fuel rail bolts, injector retainers/clips, small wire ties etc... I believe they come in a kit with o-rings. Also the intake manifold gasket kit. Those coolant seals were a PIA to remove from the manifold in my case. They just kept tearing in pieces. (I believe one coolant seal was sold separately from the kit. Verify.) Separating the upper manifold from the head was fun too. Just stuck by the seals... It seemed like I missed a bolt there for a while but it was just the seals acting like a strong adhesive. Good luck!
 
MOTORCRAFT CM5248 {BA5Z9F593B, CM5204}
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2014,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,3300371,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

MOTORCRAFT CM5268 {CM5168, CM5203} Info
Upper and Lower; w/ O-Rings, Retainers, Bolts, Washers And Tie Straps
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2014,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,3300371,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+seal+/+o-ring,13679

MOTORCRAFT CM5170 {AA5Z9C995A}
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2014,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,3300371,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector+clip,11217

BA5Z-9229-B
Kit - "O" Ring
Kit To Repair One Fuel Rail, Also Includes O Rings, Retainers, Bolts, Washers And Tie Straps
Production Date: 05/2010-
Callout Name: 9229
$128.45 $77.76
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/standard+motor+products,SK159,fuel+injector+seal+/+o-ring,13679
index.php

index.php


MAHLE MS19924 Set; Molded Rubber
Includes Thermostat Seal, Thermostat Housing Gasket, Throttle Body Gasket, Water Crossover Gaskets
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2014,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,3300371,engine,intake+manifold+gasket+/+set,5424
 
Thanks shodded!  I actually placed an order for that exact list yesterday. Should be here Tuesday.


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Nova said:
wraitherx said:
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Click to expand...
OOOO I can't wait to see those on your car, what are the specs of those?

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Click to expand...

Vossen Forged Series VF-051. 20x9 +35 and 20x10+32 in the rear.


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Might be worth it to bore scope it.. Check for bad scoring/washing.. Compression test etc..

My bad injector punched my 2010 SHO #2 cylinder..
 
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