Dealer warranty?

I guess I'm overly aggressive on oil changes.  I'm at just over 19K miles and I'm about to do my 8th oil change.  Better safe than sorry.

Pennzoil Platinum Ultra only.
 
jbrown9999 said:
I guess I'm overly aggressive on oil changes.  I'm at just over 19K miles and I'm about to do my 8th oil change.  Better safe than sorry.

Pennzoil Platinum Ultra only.
Every 3k is pretty good but since I schedule to have Ford do it for the first 2 years for record keeping  and in case warranty issues it makes me lazy otherwise I normally do it every 3-5k

How clean is the top of your motor looking when you look into the oil fill?

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I used to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, then after studying at BOBSTHEOILGUY Forum, I found Castrol GTX magnatec 5 qt jug at Walmart 19.99, awesome reviews, great stuff, cut my oil usuage/consumption in half....does not burn away-high NOACK values etc, full synthetic with all the right little symbols for Ford etc(5w-30...10w-30 has higher NOACK yet)
 
avidmotion said:
I used to use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, then after studying at BOBSTHEOILGUY Forum, I found Castrol GTX magnatec 5 qt jug at Walmart 19.99, awesome reviews, great stuff, cut my oil usuage/consumption in half....does not burn away-high NOACK values etc, full synthetic with all the right little symbols for Ford etc(5w-30...10w-30 has higher NOACK yet)

I run the same and am currently doing changes at 5,000 miles.  I usually pick it up at WallyWorld for the same price.  The wife has a 2014 Taurus SEL and I change hers at 6,500 miles.  Magnatec ranks up there with the best on most studies and oil analysis I have looked into.  And the price is cheap enough you can justify changing the oil more often too. :-[
 
Whoa, that is WAY WAY WAY too long.  Engines surprisingly suffer the highest stress at idle.  Cylinder wall washout due to excess fuel being one of the major problems.  Blackstone analysis proves the 100/200 numbers I quoted as solid ones 
Gjkrisa said:
SHOdded said:
I wouldnt go over 100 hours with mostly short trips/idling/stopngo.  Def not over 200 for mostly/all highway/loner trips.
Typically when an engine does alot of idling every 300 hrs but I had changed the oil sooner then that it was 400 hrs total engine life at the 10k

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Hey gjkrisa did they think root cause was originally a bearing going or a cracked piston or ring?  You still running the Boostmax, if so what setting were you using when it went?  I know someone else mentioned it but curious if that was part of the equation.
 
boostedflex said:
Hey gjkrisa did they think root cause was originally a bearing going or a cracked piston or ring?  You still running the Boostmax, if so what setting were you using when it went?  I know someone else mentioned it but curious if that was part of the equation.
It most likely was just a bad engine I did have the boostmax set to full but looking at the logs there was no sign of that being a bad decision except for maybe I like to manually down shift for engine breaking and I have read that somewhere on the forum that with a tune they shouldn't downshift from third to first manually because they had or were told it could damage the crankshaft  so that could be a factor.

I have not installed it again yet waiting to get the first oil change in since new engine that should be in two weeks need to make an appointment now for it.

Also still need to change ptu fluid and Install a catch can and would like to run a programmer in conjunction with the boostmax. So I can adjust boost on the fly but that maybe up to whatever tuner I go with.

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Gjkrisa said:
boostedflex said:
Hey gjkrisa did they think root cause was originally a bearing going or a cracked piston or ring?  You still running the Boostmax, if so what setting were you using when it went?  I know someone else mentioned it but curious if that was part of the equation.
It most likely was just a bad engine I did have the boostmax set to full but looking at the logs there was no sign of that being a bad decision except for maybe I like to manually down shift for engine breaking and I have read that somewhere on the forum that with a tune they shouldn't downshift from third to first manually because they had or were told it could damage the crankshaft  so that could be a factor.

I have not installed it again yet waiting to get the first oil change in since new engine that should be in two weeks need to make an appointment now for it.

Also still need to change ptu fluid and Install a catch can and would like to run a programmer in conjunction with the boostmax. So I can adjust boost on the fly but that maybe up to whatever tuner I go with.

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don't risk it again man. get a legitimate tune instead of playing with fire with the boostmax. more performance . . more security. really a no brainer


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That was why I was asking about the boost setting.  I have seen a few instances researching this where it seems you can overboost.  The specs call for up to five pounds of boost, but if stock we make 10.5 to 11 then 5 more pounds would overrun the map sensor.  Data logging I am guessing would only show 10 pounds-ish since the map is maxed (map is seeing 14.7 pounds and being being translated down to 9.7 pounds by the Boostmax). If I pull the trigger on one I am going to use the red chip which should put me at 2.5 pounds.
 
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