DIY Catch Can System

[Frozen Blue]

Hey guys I was hoping to get some feedback. I want to make sure I'm on the right track and haven't missed anything.

I don't feel like spending $350 on a catch can kit. So I was going to grab a Mishimoto Baffled 3-port can and create my own kit. I think I can eliminate the need for a CSS with a T fitting and a check valve.



So both sides should be under vacuum and venting whether under idle or boost. And the checkvalves will prevent boost from exiting the manifold or air being pulled from the intake tract to the manifold while idling.

Am I over-looking anything here?

 

[Frozen Blue]

Nevermind that won't work. No source of fresh air to the crankcase. I'd only be putting it in a vacuum to vent blowby.

How about this? I could grab an oil cap breather as a source of fresh/filtered air. Cap off the port on the front valve cover. And hook it up this way. Then I'd only need a 2-port catch can. The rear valve cover port/PCV would always have a vacuum, be it from intake manifold vacuum or from a venturi effect of air passing by in the intake tract during load.

While in vacuum the check valve to the intake tract closes so air is pulled through the catch can. When load is applied to the motor  the check valve prevents boost from leaving the intake manifold and pulls air through the catch can using the intake tract.

Thoughts?

 

[Frozen Blue]

Ok so I sourced a catch can. I'm going to buy a valve cover breather from AirAid and use it on the capped side so I can keep my oil cap. I just need to find what check valves I'd like to use. My old Damond Motorsports CC that I had on my ST had a nice brass check valve. And they sell the check valves separately so I may grab 2 from them. I need something with a low cracking pressure and can handle the underhood heat. And a plus from this is I'll have backup protection if my PCV valve ever goes out so no boost can enter the crankcase. All in all it looks to be around $200 total for everything.

 

[MiWiAu]

These are a bit spendy, but nice: http://m.uprproducts.com/billet-check-valve.html

Which can did you get? Does it have a some sort of coalescing material to pull the water/oil droplets out of the PCV vapor?

Your schematic in post #2 should be an effective way to pull PCV vapor both under cruise or boost with a 2 port can. This is essentially how the Rx can is plumbed on their three port can (one inlet, two outlets); you are just teeing your outlets together. I see no issue with this, since you are still planning to use check valves.

The key here will be the efficacy of your can to capture contaminants and not just pass them back through the intake.

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[Frozen Blue]

These are a bit spendy, but nice: http://m.uprproducts.com/billet-check-valve.html

Which can did you get? Does it have a some sort of coalescing material to pull the water/oil droplets out of the PCV vapor?

Your schematic in post #2 should be an effective way to pull PCV vapor both under cruise or boost with a 2 port can. This is essentially how the Rx can is plumbed on their three port can (one inlet, two outlets); you are just teeing your outlets together. I see no issue with this, since you are still planning to use check valves.

The key here will be the efficacy of your can to capture contaminants and not just pass them back through the intake.

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I'm going back and forth on which can to use. Mishimoto has a compact baffled can with a bronze filter to catch the oil vapors, but it's small and can't hold much.

The Damond Motorsports can is a little more but is much larger and includes a drain valve. It draws the vapors through 3 perforated baffle plates, across an oil scraper, and back up through 3 more plates. I used it on my old ST and it worked great. And I can get the check valves, can, hose, and hopefully the breather filter from them. I may be over the $200 limit that I had set but it should be a nice setup.

 

[MiWiAu]

Cool. I'd stay away from anything that's just an open volume with no baffle or filter media (which sounds like you are).

Looks like you're in MN. I'm in SE WI, and in the winter months, I was draining about 12oz from my can every 1000mi (mostly condensation). Assuming similar operating conditions, perhaps you can estimate 1 oz accumulation every 83mi in winter conditions. Might give you a rough idea on how often you might need to drain a particular can (based on volume).

Keep an eye out for total volume vs effective volume. The RX Monster, for example, is considered 20oz, but I believe I read the "effective" volume is 16oz.


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[Frozen Blue]

Cool. I'd stay away from anything that's just an open volume with no baffle or filter media (which sounds like you are).

Looks like you're in MN. I'm in SE WI, and in the winter months, I was draining about 12oz from my can every 1000mi (mostly condensation). Assuming similar operating conditions, perhaps you can estimate 1 oz accumulation every 83mi in winter conditions. Might give you a rough idea on how often you might need to drain a particular can (based on volume).

Keep an eye out for total volume vs effective volume. The RX Monster, for example, is considered 20oz, but I believe I read the "effective" volume is 16oz.


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Thanks for the heads up! Where do you have yours located? Have you had any issues with the fluid frezzing in colder weather that you know of? That was a concern of mine. I know it works better at condensing if the can is kept cooler but I still want to keep it closer to the engine so if the fluid does freeze in the can it will thaw out from the heat of the motor. I don't want those lines to get clogged.

 

[MiWiAu]

Cool. I'd stay away from anything that's just an open volume with no baffle or filter media (which sounds like you are).

Looks like you're in MN. I'm in SE WI, and in the winter months, I was draining about 12oz from my can every 1000mi (mostly condensation). Assuming similar operating conditions, perhaps you can estimate 1 oz accumulation every 83mi in winter conditions. Might give you a rough idea on how often you might need to drain a particular can (based on volume).

Keep an eye out for total volume vs effective volume. The RX Monster, for example, is considered 20oz, but I believe I read the "effective" volume is 16oz.


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Thanks for the heads up! Where do you have yours located? Have you had any issues with the fluid frezzing in colder weather that you know of? That was a concern of mine. I know it works better at condensing if the can is kept cooler but I still want to keep it closer to the engine so if the fluid does freeze in the can it will thaw out from the heat of the motor. I don't want those lines to get clogged.

Mine is located in front of the drivers side front wheel well behind the bumper cover. I have pictures in my install thread here if you are curious: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6716.0

I did have the drain (and possibly some of the contents) freeze this winter a couple of times when we had sustained temps at or below 0F, but I never had any of the other lines freeze to the point where performance was affected.

I passed a drain interval and had a frozen line, so I left it in my garage over night with a 100W light bulb located next to the drain. That was enough to thaw it by morning and allow me to drain.

Seems like with temps 20F or so and up, there wasn't much of a problem. Even if it was frozen in the morning, driving for 30 mins was enough to thaw the drain.


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[Frozen Blue]

Mine is located in front of the drivers side front wheel well behind the bumper cover. I have pictures in my install thread here if you are curious: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6716.0

I did have the drain (and possibly some of the contents) freeze this winter a couple of times when we had sustained temps at or below 0F, but I never had any of the other lines freeze to the point where performance was affected.

I passed a drain interval and had a frozen line, so I left it in my garage over night with a 100W light bulb located next to the drain. That was enough to thaw it by morning and allow me to drain.

Seems like with temps 20F or so and up, there wasn't much of a problem. Even if it was frozen in the morning, driving for 30 mins was enough to thaw the drain.

Hey man what do you think about this one? It's cheaper and I really like the design of it. Can you spot any flaws besides the low fluid capacity?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racer-X-Fabrication-Baffled-Oil-Catch-Can-2-Port-Gray-Universal-/112183842326?hash=item1a1ead9616:g:uBcAAOSwB09YE6Jg&vxp=mtr

 

[Frozen Blue]

Racer X Catch Can - $110
(2) UPR Check Valves - $30
UniFilter Breather Filter - $15

Assorted worm clamps, t-fitting, and fuel hose should be pretty cheap to source at the auto parts store. Just need to make a small bracket to mount the can. All in all roughly $155-$175 for a custom catch can setup. I'll update once I get all of the parts in next week and install them.

 

[Ramairetransam]

cant wait to see a pic by pic install of this . Ive been wanting a catch can for a bit .

 

[MiWiAu]

Mine is located in front of the drivers side front wheel well behind the bumper cover. I have pictures in my install thread here if you are curious: http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=6716.0

I did have the drain (and possibly some of the contents) freeze this winter a couple of times when we had sustained temps at or below 0F, but I never had any of the other lines freeze to the point where performance was affected.

I passed a drain interval and had a frozen line, so I left it in my garage over night with a 100W light bulb located next to the drain. That was enough to thaw it by morning and allow me to drain.

Seems like with temps 20F or so and up, there wasn't much of a problem. Even if it was frozen in the morning, driving for 30 mins was enough to thaw the drain.

Hey man what do you think about this one? It's cheaper and I really like the design of it. Can you spot any flaws besides the low fluid capacity?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racer-X-Fabrication-Baffled-Oil-Catch-Can-2-Port-Gray-Universal-/112183842326?hash=item1a1ead9616:g:uBcAAOSwB09YE6Jg&vxp=mtr

Sorry, lost track of this one.

I don't see any flaws, per se. Assuming it's serviceable and can be taken apart, you could always stuff that upper baffle with some additional coalescing material if you don't find it catching much. Some of the foil mesh stuff that's in some cleanside separators might help, but perhaps it's not needed with that can.

Good luck, and keep us posted!


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