Sorry to be so slow to get this up.. some of the pics will be old hat to those who have had their SHO up on a lift. I apologize for the dirty car... 4 days of sitting outside parked often on an unpaved road and the drive to Tucson.. Anyway...
We all spent 10am - about 6PM doing this.
First,
All thanks to Mike (4DR) both personally as well as Ecoboost Power Parts... the DPs are his brainchild,
to Jeremy and the crew at Black Market Racing for running the equipment and putting up with me through 9 dyno pulls and data analysis, and
to Paul and the crew at PPE for making the DPs a reality and doing 3 installs (including my DPs) on my car as well as some development work. Left click the pics to enlarge
Remember the SHO had
no tune or performance mod except the downpipes. example dynos were posted by Mike earlier in this thread... we lost one data set... the best catted and coated pull. We dyno'd hood up and hood down.
Bottom lines after Mike, Jeremy, and I filtered all the dynos several ways is below:[/b]
-All the pipes resulted in an earlier and stronger HP and torque increases and it started up way faster... likely due to earlier spooling of turbos. See the dynos 4DR put up earlier
-The thermal coating itself did not demonstrate any significant performance gain. I cannot recommend it at $175 based on our data unless you just like the look... It is sexy!... My hotpipes are ordered coated because of aesthetics, and perhaps a minimum gain with heat control.
-non-catted gains were about 16-17HP with similar increases in torque and catted thermal coated pipes coated were the least gain at 11-12 hp on the best pull (this data lost... sorry, We were all three standing there and saw it) and similar torque gains. (catted were done last and the effects of heat saturation were evident in the minimal gains in the last 2 pulls of the 9 total.... and driving back and forth between BMR and PPE several times.
-The car idles noticeably slower, about 600rpm now, likely due to the early power onset and Ford's torque based ECM algorithms for the 3.5EB
-See my earlier post for heat data as best we had it.
-We all believe that on the dyno the ECM limits use of all the available increased power... The idle speed could be an example. A tune...better yet with specific mods for the DPs should overcome this.
-Subjectively...The car definitely accelerates quicker and crudely has an improved 0-60... WOT launch on dry pavement snaps me back before the steady pull and the traction control is working hard to keep it straight. 60-100 continues strong pull. I was on streets and didn't go farther. The dynos indicate a steady pull and increase through about 6800-7000rpm. It's certainly more fun!
-Sound at idle is deeper but not much louder, cruise at any speed below 100 is plain quiet, there is never a drone, and when you ask for quick acceleration the exhaust
is a bit louder than stock, but definitely has more authority.
- So after I tune we'll pull some more to confirm our thoughts on needing a tune to get the largest benefits (by preventing the ECU from limiting use of available power) and how much those are. Indictions are that we will see a synergistic rather than just additive effect
Enough of my BS and on to the pics. Left click to enlarge. Labels are above pics.
Here' the stock pipes. Nasty looking...narrow tubing, unnecessary bends and compressions (it has a flat side), and a long flex tube. Pay attention to the rear hanger's vertical position.
When you get then off it looks like this.. oil filter is front side and you can just see the turbo manifold flanges...harder on the rear. You'll need some long extensions and wigglers to get these bolts out... we also used a breaker bar and a lot of penetrating oil. Re-bolt with anti-seize compound!!! Three total sensors..two on the front (long) pipe and one on the rear (short) pipe.
Here's the stainless DPs for comparison (rear non-catted and front (long) catted... Much improved... bigger, straighter, and with shorter flextube. Note the O2 sensor hole at the top of the front pipe...for stock pipe removal I recommend removing it from below to minimze chance of damage, but it
must be disconnected from above first in any event. It can be brought out on the pipe
CAREFULLY and removed on the bench... but space is tight Houdini! Get a sensor wrench socket if you don't have one to prevent cussing and buying stock in bandaids.
Here's the stainless pipes installed (without sensors)
Here's my stainless ceramic coated babies! On the install pics notice the hangers again... vertical no significant spread... there may be a few millimeters spread due to keeping the bigger tubes from contacting each other or the driver's side posterior motor mount (which allows the engine to rock front to back on two pivots). I recommend final tightening with a screw driver held between the posterior ends of the pipes just forward of the flex-tube to prevent the above mentioned contact. Minimal hangar spread is safe due to the direction of the pins for the rubber hangar...see the pics
Ain't they purdy!
I recommend all the folks involved in this endeavor... the PPE downpipes are definitely a worthwhile mod... I can hardly wait for my cutout and Corsa catbacks. Paul has the cutout now and I got to take a look... Great job developing it Mike!...but we'll dyno with a tune and just the downpipes first.
Again the REAL thanks goes to Mike(4DR) & Ecoboost Power Parts, to Jeremy & Black Market Racing, and to Paul & PPE without whom none of this would have happened!
Thanks for taking a look.... hope this helps a few folks. I certainly learned a lot!
), I'd have to say to me it feels like the same result as the dyno graph, response/spool is much better, in the middle RPM range they are so so but up top it just keeps pulling now 8) Mine were added to an existing custom 2.5" dual exhaust so I'm wondering if the only potential corks are the cats themselves or the inlets into them.
