EBC brake issue...

SHO-TYM

New member
I installed the EBC front slotted rotors and red pads a few months ago... everything has been going good with then until recently.  when I am slowing down from 40+ MPH there is a deep vibrating buzz/hum coming from my front brakes... it's loud inside the car, and i can hear it vibrating things in the cabin. they also squeal everytime I stop normally. Can't be normal... so I just went outside and looked at the rotors, and they look like they have a "burnt" look to the front... and there are chips that have been taken out of the outside of the rotors all the way around in half inch cuts... hard to describe, but I will attach pics. Has anyone run into this before?!
 
Haven't had any vibration issues from my cross-drilled/slotted PowerStop brakes.  It looks like you have pitting in addition to the other defects in the pics above?
 
I installed mine in mid June.  I have the hum also, but I just attributed it to slotted rotor.
I've had it since day one no squealing or grinding,
stops like I'm throwing out a parachute.

Were they broken in correctly?  Does look like you have some hot spots. That's usually caused by heavy braking then parked without  a cool down.

2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+boost 3bar
more to come.....
 
Slotted rotors are known for there noise levels to the grooves,unfortunetly if the break in cycle is not followed completly especially on new pads and rotors and not cooled off can lead to pad material imprinted onto the hot rotors which can lead vibration and uneven braking,usually 10 stops fom 60 down to 20 need to be done,any speed higher than 60 could lead to burning your rotors during the break in period.http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/ebc-slotted-rotors-brake-pads-questions-206880/
 
I was really careful to break them in properly. I was easy on them for 500 miles or so. I thought that would be good enough. I don't feel like the car is braking uneven, I can let go of the wheel and it stops straight as an arrow. There is some vibration in the brake peddle that feels less than normal, but this is the first set of slotted rotors I have ever used. I have had drilled in the past, but not slotted. Will the "burnt" look go away with normal driving?
 
After examining the rotors a little more noticed imprints on the rotors due to stopping completely during bedding process when brakes were hot,that can cause the vibration,some mentioned burn marks,usually when they have been broken in properly the rotor surface will transmit a bluish tint on the surface,the chips on top?,correct me if I am wrong,thank you.
 
I just checked all 4 rotors on my SHO.  From what I can see through the wheel there is no visible edge cracking or fresh metal. 
How was the packing of the rotors when you got them?
Is it possible they were already damaged before you installed them or got dropped on edge durning install. The repeated hot/cold  cycle of the rotor would male short work of a hairline fracture.
I do think its strange that there is a hot spot right below that chip.

2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+boost 3bar
more to come.....

 
glock-coma said:
I just checked all 4 rotors on my SHO.  From what I can see through the wheel there is no visible edge cracking or fresh metal. 
How was the packing of the rotors when you got them?
Is it possible they were already damaged before you installed them or got dropped on edge durning install. The repeated hot/cold  cycle of the rotor would male short work of a hairline fracture.
I do think its strange that there is a hot spot right below that chip.

2010 RCM non PP
K&N panel filter
sp534 @ 30
unleashed 93 performance+boost 3bar
more to come.....
The rotors were perfect before install. Packaging was honestly a little overkill IMO, and there are 4-5 of those fresh metal areas on both front rotors every 3-4 inches all the way around the circumference of the rotors. They stop on a dime..... I never noticed any of this until today, and 2 days ago, I had my speedo buried at 140, and finished out 5th gear while buried, and then grabbed 6th.... I'd say a good 150-155 on that run.... (I know... dumb) but then I slightly would tap the brakes to get my speed back down from that speed. Probably tapped the brakes for about a 3/4 of a mile... so I'm thinking that is where the burn look is coming from, and i am thinking the noise is normal from what I'm reading..... so hopefully I didn't jack up my rotors trying to come down from 150+
 
Maybe this info should of been in your first post...... Slowing down from 150mph probably toasted your rotors.

The chips
were pieces being torn off by
centrifugal force....jk about that last part.
 
The final bed in process after the 500 mile break in very important. If that was not complete, I'm sure that contributed to this problem.
  It properly heat cycles the pad and improves the thermal integrity.
 
glock-coma said:
Maybe this info should of been in your first post...... Slowing down from 150mph probably toasted your rotors.

The chips
were pieces being torn off by
centrifugal force....jk about that last part.
I honestly was really light on the brakes on that slow down...... literally pressed the pedal for 1 maybe 2 seconds, and then coasted for 5-10 sec, and then repeat
 
SHO-TYM I feel for you,but its a fact that any combo pads and rotors newly installed must strictly follow the stupid break in procedure,let alone repeated stops from 80-90 will cause your pads to overheat,simple rule is not to exceed 60,and when you notice a bluish tint on the rotors the cycle is completed,we all learn something new in life everyday dude,and good luck.
 
I roasted my stock pads and rotors the other day doing what you did. Only a lot harder on the deceleration rate. I took the rotors off today and sanded off the melted pad from the rotors as well as the pads themselves.  Now it's back to normal, but I need to find a better pad. The stock rotor on the 13's are far better than any aftermarket one I can find.
 
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