Ecoboost PCV issues
- Thread starter Tuner Boost
- Start date
BiGMaC said:
Hadn't thought much about that...Well let's see:
the Rx catch can got installed on the XSport Saturday and it got a bath Sunday. I just walked by the rear of it today and thought; "looks like it's time to wipe down the tips again." So, still accumulating soot? Yes, as much? Hard to say, I'll have to look at how many miles the girlfriend has put on this week and see where we're at. I would say it's not AS bad for it being 5 days, but not a huge world of difference.
Every time I clean out the tips it makes me wonder what the cats are going to look like in 30K miles...lol
Another good read by industry experts on GDI issues.
By the way there is TONS of info on this subject mater online , also to specifically address it as GDI is NOT necessary . GDI is nothing more than Direct Injection with a G added for gasoline .
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/05/ask-an-engineer-gdi-problems-in-a-nutshell/
A lot of members have brought up the tear down video of the 2011 3.5 EB as " proof " that we will have no long term reliability problems .
Please don't take this the wrong way as I am a die - hard Ford enthusiast but this is nothing more than a marketing tool .
One car is NOT proof and over the years it has come to light that all Automotive Mfg have sold vehicles with major design flaws .
GM's ignition switch problem proves this and Ford is no exception to the rule ...... Remember the Pinto ?
By the way there is TONS of info on this subject mater online , also to specifically address it as GDI is NOT necessary . GDI is nothing more than Direct Injection with a G added for gasoline .
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/05/ask-an-engineer-gdi-problems-in-a-nutshell/
A lot of members have brought up the tear down video of the 2011 3.5 EB as " proof " that we will have no long term reliability problems .
Please don't take this the wrong way as I am a die - hard Ford enthusiast but this is nothing more than a marketing tool .
One car is NOT proof and over the years it has come to light that all Automotive Mfg have sold vehicles with major design flaws .
GM's ignition switch problem proves this and Ford is no exception to the rule ...... Remember the Pinto ?
SwampRat said:
Hey! I have a customer that just bought pistons and bearings for his stock Pinto...why, I dont know.
But really, they all have there problems. I eccept and understand the "why" of the PVC problem. I believe most if not all makes that don't have some sort "filter" or catch can have some level of problems.
I know my 04 Explorer Limited 4.6 had this problem...it,s just more important to resolve it with a turbo, supercharger, ic, Di, application imho.
Tuner Boost
New member
Hey all, and any with the RX can installed on a flex or car please read. Simple minor change for the better:
PainterPat just left. What we found is the drill location for the front intake tube is before the fresh side barb, so at cruise it has been over powering the flow not allowing the can to work properly. So, everyone please note, no need to drill the front inlet pipe. Simply use the 5/8" barb to T into the back side one and then use a 90* 1/4 NPT x 3/8" barb for your clean side hose connection and drill it just after (down from) the air filter/air box. and connect the cleanside separator their. We tested and it worked properly, and it makes install easier. The trucks we can reach to drill downstream so that has never been an issue. Whichever fitting is closest to the turbo will over power the one up stream even if only by a few inches. So, he is checking back in 500-800 miles to see the accumulation at that time. Any questions, or anyone needing a fitting let us know and we will get it right out.
You want the fitting installed for the cleanside separator as close to the air filter as possible.
PainterPat just left. What we found is the drill location for the front intake tube is before the fresh side barb, so at cruise it has been over powering the flow not allowing the can to work properly. So, everyone please note, no need to drill the front inlet pipe. Simply use the 5/8" barb to T into the back side one and then use a 90* 1/4 NPT x 3/8" barb for your clean side hose connection and drill it just after (down from) the air filter/air box. and connect the cleanside separator their. We tested and it worked properly, and it makes install easier. The trucks we can reach to drill downstream so that has never been an issue. Whichever fitting is closest to the turbo will over power the one up stream even if only by a few inches. So, he is checking back in 500-800 miles to see the accumulation at that time. Any questions, or anyone needing a fitting let us know and we will get it right out.
You want the fitting installed for the cleanside separator as close to the air filter as possible.
panther427
New member
Has there been a catch can only install
PainterPatt posted more info with pics on the FLEX INSTALL thread.BiGMaC said:
panther427 said:
Not that I'm aware of. Pretty sure the few rx installs that are complete have all been including CSS.
panther427
New member
from what i/ve seen it would be a pain to try to clean it in the car.. you could discounect hoses and fill CAC with detergent and flush with water. then TRY to blow drive it out.. but then you would have oil residue on the outside the the CAC and front end. its MUCH better all around to pull it. When i have cleaned Semi CAC there is alot of gunk.
I wouldnt try to clean it in the car.. to much chance of not getting the water out. And making a mess of the engine bay
I wouldnt try to clean it in the car.. to much chance of not getting the water out. And making a mess of the engine bay
Tuner Boost
New member
Panther is correct. Big hassle, but no way around it.
And this really needs to be done at the time of any can installation to remove what has already accumulated, and will give you a good idea on how badly your car has the ingestion issue.
And this really needs to be done at the time of any can installation to remove what has already accumulated, and will give you a good idea on how badly your car has the ingestion issue.
There is an easy way to measure how much stuff you have in the CAC, this is what I did. Take off the intake tube from the TB and the CAC, pull your dipstick out of the car. Ensure you wipe it off really well. From the side you took off the intake tube carefully insert the dipstick down into the CAC, I did say carefully right? You have a clear path down to the bottom of the CAC. I first used a snake cam to see the inside of the CAC to ensure there was nothing in the way. When I measured mine last night I had a 1/2 inch of liquid in the bottom of the CAC. I then used some fuel line to suck the crap out of the CAC. I used a compressed air vac to get it out so I couldn't measure the actual amount, but the CAC is pretty wide and thick to I assume there was a fair bit of crud in there. This is no substitute for cleaning, but when I was done I couldn't see any oil on the dipstick test. Oh I also jacked up the driver side of the car to try to get it to pool on the passenger side, it seemed to work. A word of caution, I used the compressed air method because I had no idea of what I was picking up. With the possibility of it being flammable I didn't want the risk of an explosion.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Tuner Boost
New member
This is excellent thinking. all. This forum is great to be able to have other brains working on ideas here. My average day is app 6 hours of tech support, and in between overseeing the entire facility, and then new application requests come in steady (Hyundai to Lambo's!) so this helps us all.
Now that your seeing what is accumulating, and what is being caught (even on the cars now) I would still love to have a technical discussion with the guys from Livernoise (again, friendly as I really think they are stuck on some old wives tale or something as much as they are so great at the rest of what they do) or others that would think in anyway this is not harmfull in ALL aspects of ingestion.
Never in all my years of interacting with Factory engineers, those int he professional race industry, etc. has anyone ever claimed it was OK to have oil ingestion much less what the ecoboost mix turns out to contain (water, sulfuric acid, oil, unburnt fuel, abrasive carbon mix, etc.).
But back to this. Thanks for those willing to take the time and effort to explore these ideas you have...and this one is a super time saver!!! And should work well enough that any residual left should not cause damage.
The danger of NOT doing this (emptying some how) can result in hydro lock.
Now that your seeing what is accumulating, and what is being caught (even on the cars now) I would still love to have a technical discussion with the guys from Livernoise (again, friendly as I really think they are stuck on some old wives tale or something as much as they are so great at the rest of what they do) or others that would think in anyway this is not harmfull in ALL aspects of ingestion.
Never in all my years of interacting with Factory engineers, those int he professional race industry, etc. has anyone ever claimed it was OK to have oil ingestion much less what the ecoboost mix turns out to contain (water, sulfuric acid, oil, unburnt fuel, abrasive carbon mix, etc.).
But back to this. Thanks for those willing to take the time and effort to explore these ideas you have...and this one is a super time saver!!! And should work well enough that any residual left should not cause damage.
The danger of NOT doing this (emptying some how) can result in hydro lock.
panther427
New member
Tracy I'm still curious as to why we need to run two lines into a T from the pre Turbo side of the intake. I would think one bigger line would be better. I'm just looking for your explanation as the vendor.
Also would a filter attached to the front valve cover port that is capped during the CCS provide enough flow into the crank case? I'm trying to make this kit as easy as possible to return to stock at any time. So I'm trying to avoid drilling into the air box.
Also would a filter attached to the front valve cover port that is capped during the CCS provide enough flow into the crank case? I'm trying to make this kit as easy as possible to return to stock at any time. So I'm trying to avoid drilling into the air box.
