Gathering information for a Tune

C

ClearwaterSHO

New member
Okay, the time has come to start gathering things to tune the SHO. I still haven't decided between Unleashed or Livernois, but I will make that decisions soon. My questions are below.

1. 3 Bar Map Sensor, what is the part number, and can anyone provide me a place to purchase this outside of one of the tuners? I am sure they do some mark up on them.

2. Plugs... never mind I could just look through the tons of posts about this, but if you want to let me be lazy. Part number, I'm going with the stock MC plugs, because to my understanding, they are actually the NGK plugs anyways.

3. Do I have to get the T-stat? I don't want to deal with burping the coolant system, as I have read quite a bit about people having issues doing this.

4. Does the CAI really give you any performance? I have seen multiple tests on youtube, explaining that they really don't add anything. I think some Down Pipes would be better.

The SHO has fresh AMSoil all the way around, and is ready to make MO POWA!!

I appreciate the answers. I love the car, and I can't wait to throw the Tune at this thing.

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When it comes to the two different tuners. I live in Tampa so Torrie is only a few hours away, if I ever got the extra $$$ to go see him, so there is that. The reason I am kind of leaning towards LMS is because I know absolutely nothing about data logging. I am not sure outside of the track, where I would go to do WOT pulls.  LMS seems simple... plug, tune, done. Do the Unleashed tunes really make that much more power or are they that much more efficient?

---------------

Side note, sorry didn't want to make multiple posts.
- I need to find out how to set up my Torque properly. My KR reading is always at 0, and I can't figure out if it's working lol.

Sorry, I'm new to the world of the SHO. My last car was a Chrysler Town and Country lol. The last sports car I owned was almost 20 years ago, and it was an 85 RX-7 GSL-SE with exhaust, little Nitrous, and a horrible teen driving lol. 

I appreciate all responses. The SHO is so sweet, but it's time to make her faster!
 
3bar map is cx2231
Spark plugs sp534
Tstat not necessary. 
CAI not necessary.  Only really beneficial with downpipes plus catback.  Dropin k&n filter is a good substitute.
Let tuner know if you do install one so they can give you the best tune for your mods.
Rockauto.com generally has great pricing on stuff.
Tunes you get from either are sorted out.  Datalogging helps uncover issues and enhance performance when it comes to your specific vehicle.  Not necessary if you don't want to.  Getting used to using Forscan or Torque Pro is a good idea.
 
The CAI offers no demonstrable power gain on my SHO on the dyno (multiple pulls) when compared to the car with no filter and the "saxophone open directly to atmosphere. The MDesign has no difference in my car, but other CAIs have shown real world losses in quarter mile times for many that resolved by returning to stock same day.... So... Eye and ear candy only.

My car was dyno'd in multiple pulls with stock DPs vs catted PPE DPs, vs non-catted DPs. Catted added 12 AWHP and non-catted added 17 AWHP. All pulls done same day with only enough time to changes DPs between trials. Three pulls each type. The most noticeable performance gain was a shift of the power curve on the dyno... The upward spike in HP occurred at about 1000rpm with the PPE DPs of both types as opposed to stock DPs with HP spike at 1600rpm or so. This made the low end real world pullin much quicker and is one of th biggest reasons my 0-60 is now sub-4sec. HP holds to redline so no compromise of "at speed" acceleration.... All the SHOs work hard after 100mph in a WOT run.

I have the 160 degre T-stat... The engine stays cooler, maybe 10 degrees, but I had my tune adjusted so the fans don't run as much. Cooler is better, but eventually heat soak likely overcomes it

I have noticed primarily a smoother and more incremental throttle response with the 3BAR, but personally not more power. Be sure the part# has a "B" at the end to get the 3BAR... On the part it may say "AB" at the end... Pic of the box below this post shows that detail ... The part # previously list is generic for both 2and3BAR MAPs.

OEM plugs are fine.  MC534 in mine. Most tuners will recommend a gap of .028 to .030.  Be careful with the coils... Rotate them and the shape of the valve cover will break them loose from the plugs. Check for oil in the spark plug wells, especially #6, since oil leaks here are common... My valve cover gasket and plug well seals had to be replaced on a new car with< 5K miles which I found when regapping.

My list of mods is in my signature. Have Fun! That's what's important.

As Manu states, let your tuner know about each to get even more benefits from them.


 
Definetly Rock auto has the best prices on many parts,here's a discount code you can use.  Z              Your discount code is:

4034435536656531
 
Are you still deriving the "clean exhaust tip" benefit from the MDesign CAI, BiGMaC?
ZSHO said:
Definetly Rock auto has the best prices on many parts,here's a discount code you can use.  Z              Your discount code is:

4034435536656531
Click to expand...
Forgot about that, good add, Z!
 
I might go with Torrie since he is here in FL. Support my state type of thing. When you install the Unleashed tune from the start, is there a difference, or is it something that slowly builds over time? I've never had a car tuned, so I am not sure what to expect really. IS there a drastic difference between when you first loaded the tune vs say 12 Data Log adjustments?
 
Gray Brick said:
Torrie has taken good care of me and my tunes.
Click to expand...
... As have LME and Dan for me... If you like to datalog and change the tune a lot to try to get 100% of your car then go Unleashed. If you want to make the major adjustments for mods and a few small tweaks to focus on driving while getting 95-98% of what your car can do.. Then go LME.... That said, the worlds fastest, quickest and most powerful SHOs are LME tuned. You will be happy with either... It's just how you choose to spend your time... Again, just enjoy the car. It's supposed to be fun!
 
CL Donttry said:
BigMaC how much HP and TQ are you putting down just curious with all the testing you done?
Click to expand...
CL... Haven't dyno'd since tuning and then having the tune tweaked for the addons (I'm running a tweaked LME v8). Mods and tuning are done with emphasis on useable, fun, and safe low end hp and tq as this is my DD and I don't formally race it..... So I don't really know. Based on 0-60 times being 3.95-4.2sec The calculators I can find online average AWHP and TQ in the 425- 475 range (about 500-550 CHP).... Arguably of course.

I have Ford's Premium extended warranty (BTB for 70K) and Ford's premier service policy (all actory maintenance free to 70K) both of which I got at delivery of the car... I won't be adding much performance wise until I drive out from under this.... Then I plan upgraded suspension, upgraded brakes, upgraded turbos like the ATP's, a dual nozzle meth system, a partial rebuild on the engine, new pistons, and a dyno tune at LME.... Hopefully there will be more tranny/PTU upgrades by then.  I want to have a DD with 550-600 AWHP someday in this platform. Until then I'll keep working on aesthetics... Some of which are in the works.
 
BiGMaC said:
Gray Brick said:
Torrie has taken good care of me and my tunes.
Click to expand...
... As have LME and Dan for me... If you like to datalog and change the tune a lot to try to get 100% of your car then go Unleashed. If you want to make the major adjustments for mods and a few small tweaks to focus on driving while getting 95-98% of what your car can do.. Then go LME.... That said, the worlds fastest, quickest and most powerful SHOs are LME tuned. You will be happy with either... It's just how you choose to spend your time... Again, just enjoy the car. It's supposed to be fun!
Click to expand...


I have Unleashed tune and have been very pleased. The first tune is a huge difference and pretty much good to go, however to get the most of out of it most likley will require a revision. Torrie will get you all set up once you send in some datalogs if you go the unleashed route. 
 
I'm happy with torrie as well.  He is always on it and super fast responses. I had no idea about data logging.  I was happy with my tunes. But then I kept modding.  So I data logged, super easy. And had a new tune in no time. I have a flex and so far best ET for me with torrie tuning via data log is 12.60. Hoping to drop that number this summer. Whoever you go with you will be happy I'm sure.
 
I pulled the trigger. I went with Unleashed. Ordered some new plugs, 3BAR, and the Tuner/Tune today. Should have it early next week, or late this week. I can't wait!! Is there a write up on how to change the Spark Plugs? I have read that some of them can be an issue. Also, which plug should I check for oil? All of them, or is there one in particular where it likes to leak? Thank you in advance!


Never mind, I was already told which cylinder to look out for, disregard that part of the post. Thanks.
 
ClearwaterSHO said:
I might go with Torrie since he is here in FL. Support my state type of thing. When you install the Unleashed tune from the start, is there a difference, or is it something that slowly builds over time? I've never had a car tuned, so I am not sure what to expect really. IS there a drastic difference between when you first loaded the tune vs say 12 Data Log adjustments?
Click to expand...
Yes and no. small adjustments from revision to revision but taken as a whole from 1st to last yes, if that makes sense.
 
ClearwaterSHO said:
I pulled the trigger. I went with Unleashed. Ordered some new plugs, 3BAR, and the Tuner/Tune today. Should have it early next week, or late this week. I can't wait!! Is there a write up on how to change the Spark Plugs? I have read that some of them can be an issue. Also, which plug should I check for oil? All of them, or is there one in particular where it likes to leak? Thank you in advance!


Never mind, I was already told which cylinder to look out for, disregard that part of the post. Thanks.
Click to expand...


Hope they told you the #6 hole for the oil... And that the torque on the plugs is minimal... Measured in single digit inch-pounds... I always have to look it up... But you don't want you ruin your heads. Use the gap Torrie recommends for best performance and elimination of spark blow out.
 
BiGMaC said:
ClearwaterSHO said:
I pulled the trigger. I went with Unleashed. Ordered some new plugs, 3BAR, and the Tuner/Tune today. Should have it early next week, or late this week. I can't wait!! Is there a write up on how to change the Spark Plugs? I have read that some of them can be an issue. Also, which plug should I check for oil? All of them, or is there one in particular where it likes to leak? Thank you in advance!


Never mind, I was already told which cylinder to look out for, disregard that part of the post. Thanks.
Click to expand...


Hope they told you the #6 hole for the oil... And that the torque on the plugs is minimal... Measured in single digit inch-pounds... I always have to look it up... But you don't want you ruin your heads. Use the gap Torrie recommends for best performance and elimination of spark blow out.
Click to expand...

Ty sir! I have the Factory Service Manual, so I will be following that. I figured would be at least a few lbs of torque. Just a few inches huh, wow, is that like barely passed finger tight?
 
Actually it is 133 or so inch-lbs which comes out to about 11 ft-lbs.  Basically, snug + 1/8-1/4 turn further should do it.  Tighten, but do not force, is the motto here.  As for the HOWTO:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

The #3 is the PITA of all the 6 to deal with, that's the rear bank, driverside spark plug.  You may have to disconnect some hoses to get room to R&R properly.  Examine the boots on all of them to make sure they are not torn or covered in oil or have carbon tracks, etc etc etc.  Might want to buy extra boots from Amazon or the dealer JIC.  Keeping a hemostat or a really longnosed pliers handy is a plus in case the boot comes apart and gets stuck on the spark plug.  Blow out the wells with compressed air prior to removing plugs so dirt does not enter the cylinders.  All the normal precautions.
 
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