Getting my PTU flushed today

Sure Mac! Well, I started by sending my mechanic the write-up posted above by glock-coma (thanks glock!) and asking him if it was something he wanted to get into. He agreed, and followed the write up. Basically:

Drove the car around turns to warm up the fluid in the PTU.
Remove the fill plug.
Siphon out as much fluid as he could with a vacuum brake bleeder kit.
Pumped in redline 75W-140 until it poured out, bringing with it more sludge.
Did another siphon round, sucking out the new and old fluid.
Pumped in more until it looked much better and replaced the fill plug.

However, after all this, he recommended bringing it in in a month or so and doing the whole thing over, being that it was so bad. His reasoning is that with the new fluid in there sloshing around, it will gather more of the sludge and we can purge it again. I believe I will be doing it again.

The cost was $139, which I believe is fair for the time that he put into it, and a ton of redline 75W-140.
 
jcl78 said:
Sure Mac! Well, I started by sending my mechanic the write-up posted above by glock-coma (thanks glock!) and asking him if it was something he wanted to get into. He agreed, and followed the write up. Basically:

Drove the car around turns to warm up the fluid in the PTU.
Remove the fill plug.
Siphon out as much fluid as he could with a vacuum brake bleeder kit.
Pumped in redline 75W-140 until it poured out, bringing with it more sludge.
Did another siphon round, sucking out the new and old fluid.
Pumped in more until it looked much better and replaced the fill plug.

However, after all this, he recommended bringing it in in a month or so and doing the whole thing over, being that it was so bad. His reasoning is that with the new fluid in there sloshing around, it will gather more of the sludge and we can purge it again. I believe I will be doing it again.

The cost was $139, which I believe is fair for the time that he put into it, and a ton of redline 75W-140.
Click to expand...

Many thanks jcl...  :beer2:

I also think $139 is a really fair price.  (my wifes oil changes in her F250 exceed $100).

I also agree with your mechanic's advice as a bit of driving will likely loosen up more sludge that can be removed.

Clearly the maintenance on PTU oil should be done at shorter intervals... most have felt that 25K miles was the mark.... Time will tell as more of us get this done!
 
Similar method to flushing cooling systems at home...

Definitely seems like the smartest flushing method, with keeping the PTU installed.

I was under my SHO last week for LOF, and I didn't spot a drain or a fill anywhere. That thing is nestled pretty far up there.
But, it was dark and I was tired.
I'm going to go back and take a look this weekend.

Looks easy to do, in regards to work space, with either the car on ramps or stands.

I thought 13+ PP featured PTU aux water cooling? It's the RDU which is cooled (oil cooler I presume?)?

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IHeartGroceries said:
Similar method to flushing cooling systems at home...

Definitely seems like the smartest flushing method, with keeping the PTU installed.

I was under my SHO last week for LOF, and I didn't spot a drain or a fill anywhere. That thing is nestled pretty far up there.
But, it was dark and I was tired.
I'm going to go back and take a look this weekend.

Looks easy to do, in regards to work space, with either the car on ramps or stands.

I thought 13+ PP featured PTU aux water cooling? It's the RDU which is cooled (oil cooler I presume?)?

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Click to expand...

Yes 2013+ PP cars, PTU has water cooler oil cooler. RDU has no cooler. From looking at drawing online of your PTU looks to have a drain plug, on the pan side of the PTU. However there doesn't appear to have a fill plug, so filling would have to be done thru drain or thru breather tube. By injecting thru opening with the appropriate amount of oil.
 
Should make it easier to flush the 2013+ PP, if it is even necessary.  Still need data.  Still in the dark about 2013+ non-PP, safe assumption that 2010-12 rules still apply.
 
JohnnyBravo said:
How many quarts of gear oil do you need to have in order to do the flush?
Click to expand...
Bump. I'm at 64k and haven't done it yet, but talked to my mechanic yesterday about it.
 
Kolk1 said:
JohnnyBravo said:
How many quarts of gear oil do you need to have in order to do the flush?
Click to expand...
Bump. I'm at 64k and haven't done it yet, but talked to my mechanic yesterday about it.
Click to expand...

got this info from another EB message board, dated fromlast year:


Originally posted by First-SHOView Post

What are the factory spec weights and how many qts each for the rear diff and PTU?
Just did some searching and found:

PTU uses 1.1 pints (less than 1 qt) of either 75w140 or 80w140

Rear Diff uses 2.3 pints (less than 2 qts) of 75w90 or 80w90
 
Fill plug is on passenger side,would it help to have passenger side of car jacked up higher than driver side so you could put in a little extra fluid before putting plug back in?
 
You need definitely don't want to put extra in. It will come out the breather. Car needs to be level to properly fill.


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Why is it spec'd so heavy?

I think it's pretty clear that high temps and/or overheating is what's degradating the gear oils so badly.

So, hasn't there been a 13+ PP owner who's swapped in new oil?

I'm going to swap to Redline 75W140. Has a high VI rating, and is otherwise recognized as a good gear oil.
However, I saw a spec sheet on Ford's Motorcraft factory fill, and it looked pretty good.

I think overall this can be attributed to a poor cooling design - sparse oil, no oil and no aux water cooling (on non PPs).

In the next couple months, I'll be at 15k miles, at which time, I'm going to flush, and see just how well the water cooling does for the oil on PP equipped cars.

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IHG... I'll be really interested in what you find.  I've currently planned 25K flush and change in my non-PP SHO, but it just a guess on my part for now.  Seems only the failed PTU's show up for analysis.
 
I went by my dealer today they didn't want my money for a PTU oil change. They said my SHO is good for a long time on everything. They stated they only recommend chaning PTU oil if there's a problem. I said but ecoboost forums said ! lol no but I did tell him I have seen some ugly stuff on internet forums but they stick with that they are trained / told.

I wanted to do my PP PTU this weekend since I'm at 31K miles but I'm going out of town so I don't know when I can get to it, but it will be in the next few days / week max.
 
68_GT said:
I went by my dealer today they didn't want my money for a PTU oil change. They said my SHO is good for a long time on everything. They stated they only recommend chaning PTU oil if there's a problem. I said but ecoboost forums said ! lol no but I did tell him I have seen some ugly stuff on internet forums but they stick with that they are trained / told.

I wanted to do my PP PTU this weekend since I'm at 31K miles but I'm going out of town so I don't know when I can get to it, but it will be in the next few days / week max.
Click to expand...
  Lol but they will be fine swapping out your PTU when it destroys itself.  I recommend you find a reputable local shop to do it.
 
Yeah, you can always find somebody outside of the Ford house to take care of this service.

Interestingly, it seems almost universal that the Ford house service departments believe that these things needn't be tampered with.

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