**Help Needed**

If you get it for free at the dealership, do it.  Otherwise, consider getting the Timken heavy duty hubs instead.  Work well for the 2013+ ...

TIMKEN Part # HA590261 {#8A8Z1104A, 8A8Z1104B, BT4Z1104B}
Front
Rear
 
SHOnUup said:
I have no idea on cost, I know when I replaced the hub assembly ' s on my trailblazer that the good ones were almost double the cost of the cheap assembly and was very easy to do.

I have never tackled changing the Hub Assembly out on any of my vehicles.  I know that it was expensive on my Tahoe.  I may call and see what their estimate is.  problem is, I am an hour away from my house, but only 2 minutes from my dealership..... so I would have to drive an hour home, return to stock tune, and then drive another hour out to the dealership again.... I may just take it to them and tell them what I have done to it, and to take it easy.... then leave a recording device in the car to capture any hot rodding they may do. haha
 
SHOdded said:
If you get it for free at the dealership, do it.  Otherwise, consider getting the Timken heavy duty hubs instead.

How long can I drive on it if it just started making the noise?
 
SHOdded said:
If you get it for free at the dealership, do it.  Otherwise, consider getting the Timken heavy duty hubs instead.
Timken is a must, or OEM, anything else and you will be replacing in 15-20k.
 
SHO-TYM said:
SHOdded said:
If you get it for free at the dealership, do it.  Otherwise, consider getting the Timken heavy duty hubs instead.

How long can I drive on it if it just started making the noise?
Really wouldn't want to suggest any kind of time frame as you never know.
 
It's a pretty easy job. Basic tools and a torque wrench I'm thinking. Couldn't see it being more than an hour of labor.
 
When car is jacked up, grab wheel at 12 & 6 position and wiggle to check for unusual play. You can also at this time turn car on and put in "N", turn off, then grab the spring with one hand quite firmly and spin tire with other hand. If you feel the vibration in spring that is also a sign of hub assembly failure. Good luck.
 
ZSHO said:
The dealer performed the two front wheel hubs,bearings and the TSB washers,basically give or take 3hrs labor,need the proper tools if not take it to the dealer and not as a simple task as some might think.
What did that run you  as far as cost goes?
 
Everything was covered under warranty,if thats not the case you figure 116.00 ea axle bearing and hub assembly from Tasca part # BT4Z-1104-B,heavy duty grease and 3hrs labor give or take a reasnable quote would be less than 600.00,hope this helps.
 
ZSHO said:
Everything was covered under warranty,if thats not the case you figure 116.00 ea axle bearing and hub assembly from Tasca part # BT4Z-1104-B,heavy duty grease and 3hrs labor give or take a reasnable quote would be less than 600.00,hope this helps.
Mine is a 2011 with 56k miles. Would it be covered under warranty?
 
Speak with your service advisor or stop by the dealer early in the morning and explain to them the symptoms your having,best of my knowledge that should be covered for 3yr or 60k coverage,they will most likely have to do some diagnostics first then go from there,try to do it asap,good luck.
 
ZSHO said:
Speak with your service advisor or stop by the dealer early in the morning and explain to them the symptoms your having,best of my knowledge that should be covered for 3yr or 60k coverage,they will most likely have to do some diagnostics first then go from there,try to do it asap,good luck.

I have an appointment in the morning to have the sound looked at by my dealer.  I called them and they said if it is a wheel hub then that is covered under factory warranty (5yr/60K).  So my next question is, I need to replace my 3 bar sensor with factory 2 bar, and reflash back to stock tune.  I guess I need to put the factory air box back on as well right? And should I undo my Blow off valve vent to atmosphere mod?
 
2 bar, no blow off VAM , stock tune and then 15 minute battery disconnect and some add cruising time before going in. Think the CAI is ok?
 
SHOnUup said:
2 bar, no blow off VAM , stock tune and then 15 minute battery disconnect and some add cruising time before going in. Think the CAI is ok?

ok, so I will change back to 2 bar, then undo my VTA mod, flash back to stock tune, and since the intake is such an easy change, I will just put it back on.  My last question is, what in the world do I do about the god awful noise my exhaust makes?!? The drone is unbearable..... that isn't going to void my warranty is it? I made the mistake of chopping off the two rear mufflers..... stupid....STUPID
 
Your delete mufflers have nothing to do with your front end and the noise you are reproducing,CAI IS O.K,my dealer had to order the hubs,good luck.
 
2011 Ford Taurus SHO Problem: http://youtu.be/0Y3srcCca7M

There is the video of the sound it makes. In the video, I am coasting with no exhaust note coming out.... all the noise is from the humming of the wheel. Everyone still think it's the hub assembly?
 
From no sound to that is pretty crazy for hub assembly. But the comment about the quick cooling from puddle really tingles my common sense bone the right way.
 
SHOnUup said:
From no sound to that is pretty crazy for hub assembly. But the comment about the quick cooling from puddle really tingles my common sense bone the right way.
I know.... we went camping in the mountains for the weekend, so there was some pretty spirited driving coming out of the mountains, and then to do a rapid lane shift and slam into a puddle at 45-50 mph after driving for 2 hours. I'm sure everything was really really hot, and then throwing cold rain water all over everything could cause some pretty nasty stuff.
 
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