Hesitation and high KR Cold weather issues?
- Thread starter ShoBoat
- Start date
glock-coma
New member
I'll take a pic later. I got about 3 oz out again. I really need to install the catch can I bought from SwampRat...lol
So a small update, I swapped out the plugs again and no change. I then proceeded to re clean the 2 map sensors and I reset the learned behaviour through Forscan. (Reset trans and other adaptations). Weird it's not as bad as it was. Even KR seems to be lower than before. It's still there but not nearly as severe. More to come.
Damn lol your posts make me tired with all the plug swapping and hardware cleaning and what not that you do lol...Your anal!
Just reading through, you said when you returned to stock the retard went away...Well that tells me tune not hardware that you have been investigating, maybe certain areas in your tune are slightly over advanced and LME is just relying on the knock sensors to do their job? Not a terrible thing as long as it not pulling crazy amounts of timing all the time.
And you got me thinking, are you logging with Live link? I always log "knock sensor" and when I see a value of 2 it's adding 2 degrees there. So I wonder if you are interpreting the PID reading wrong. When you see the PID called Knock sensor retard and see +4.5 are you just assuming that it's pulling 4.5 degrees? Because if I saw -4.5 I would assume that means it's pulling timing but if you saw that you would assume it's adding 4.5 degrees.
I didn't think you are logging with live link so it just makes me wonder if your logging app calls the PID that reads the knock sensor "knock sensor retard" the same that Live link calls "knock sensor" in which case a positive number means it's adding timing.
If you are looking for the value to be 0 all the time you may never be happy. It's kinda like why there are 02 sensors....You will never have short term fuel trims at 0. They are constantly making small adjustments to compensate for component wear, failed parts and poor tuning etc... as long at the knock retard isn't going crazy all the time it might not be so terrible for the sensor to give readings hear and there...BUT over 4 degrees is getting a little on the high side one way or the other...Worst case your timing is over advanced and you are relying on the sensor to pull timing and best case you are retarded and making less power momentarily until the knock sensor decides it's safe to add a little more.
Just reading through, you said when you returned to stock the retard went away...Well that tells me tune not hardware that you have been investigating, maybe certain areas in your tune are slightly over advanced and LME is just relying on the knock sensors to do their job? Not a terrible thing as long as it not pulling crazy amounts of timing all the time.
And you got me thinking, are you logging with Live link? I always log "knock sensor" and when I see a value of 2 it's adding 2 degrees there. So I wonder if you are interpreting the PID reading wrong. When you see the PID called Knock sensor retard and see +4.5 are you just assuming that it's pulling 4.5 degrees? Because if I saw -4.5 I would assume that means it's pulling timing but if you saw that you would assume it's adding 4.5 degrees.
I didn't think you are logging with live link so it just makes me wonder if your logging app calls the PID that reads the knock sensor "knock sensor retard" the same that Live link calls "knock sensor" in which case a positive number means it's adding timing.
If you are looking for the value to be 0 all the time you may never be happy. It's kinda like why there are 02 sensors....You will never have short term fuel trims at 0. They are constantly making small adjustments to compensate for component wear, failed parts and poor tuning etc... as long at the knock retard isn't going crazy all the time it might not be so terrible for the sensor to give readings hear and there...BUT over 4 degrees is getting a little on the high side one way or the other...Worst case your timing is over advanced and you are relying on the sensor to pull timing and best case you are retarded and making less power momentarily until the knock sensor decides it's safe to add a little more.
I know SHOBOAT has a 13 SHO with more than average mileage,anything over 60k on it due expect to change a part or two,due to normal wear and tear which could be validated,recall a while back when they had issues with the 13+SHO because the encoding/programming was different and they had to adjust the tune which closes the throttle blade at various points and open it much slower to keep from having the hesitation issue which later with the V8 Tune was fully rectified.
Shoboat u may need medication for a busy mind lol...programming changes all the time during a run of the same body style nothing new there..that why there are many different strategies
Ur tune may just need a tweak due to something being slightly different than last season...or let the sensors do what they do and work for u....sounds like u are reaching for some wierd reason causing a slight quirk....maybe it's time for lms v9 tune lol
Ur tune may just need a tweak due to something being slightly different than last season...or let the sensors do what they do and work for u....sounds like u are reaching for some wierd reason causing a slight quirk....maybe it's time for lms v9 tune lol
We sometimes like to experiment with our cars and get a true feel on how maybe the oil,fluids look and smell like,nothing better than getting familiar with your car and sometimes even dirty,its a thing called (manual labor)something to take into consideration when your warranty runs out.Zajpturbo said:
LOL ZSHO. I do like to work on my cars. I guess from my old days of being a mechanic. But I did a little more messing around last night, I tried the 93 base tune (no mods) and swapped the map sensors. Still had a misfire, however after resetting the adaptations is was gone. For a while at least. I wonder if the dealer when I was last in a few weeks ago did an update? I will get with LMS today and see what they say. Interesting that it was gone when I first reset the adaptations.
ShoBoat said:
I'd definitely check on that... if you wrote down your original strategy code you can just ask the car for that code using the MyCal engineering mode... If the dealer updated it you'll have a new SW ID and a new strategy code.
I do know that the '13+ have forward and backward learning, so you can flash any tune... but it might act unusual.
If they did an update your car wouldn't run unless u swapped the 3 bar.....and when u did ur reflash u over write the dealer flash...khdl4tv does have an update...I'll have to look when I get home what it changed to...its useless tho....literally 1 change in the entire tune and has to do with communications
ShoBoat said:
I have the previous generation MyCal, part number 45002.
For that one:
-put the car accessory mode by pressing the start button twice without applying the brake...
-connect the MyCal while you a press the "N" and "Up" buttons as you plug it in....
-let communication start...
-on the MyCal, scroll down to ECU CAL/Strategy Code and then press the "Y" button and follow the prompts
Hope this helps