AJP turbo said:
Re-read my post, I saw the pressure drop with LMS 4+X... not your tune...
I saw the drop with your tune before the wastegate modification but that was pushing 207kpa with a lot of advance..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hesitation in boost and high rpm
- Thread starter polskifacet
- Start date
Re-read my post, I saw the pressure drop with LMS 4+X... not your tune...
I saw the drop with your tune before the wastegate modification but that was pushing 207kpa with a lot of advance..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
polskifacet
New member
Most of the fuel line is metal. Checked all the bends everything is nice and smooth. I can do the volume test but it will be hard to see a difference between 80% and 100% flow, I have no benchmark to compare it to. I also uploaded a log (8) of a run in 60f today.
Yea, rail pressure is still suffering.. bottoms out to 1100psi and only recovers to 1850psi throughout the run. You never actually hit the dsd fuel rail pressure of 2149psi.... and the the intake temperature at the manifold starts at 93F which is more than warm enough to not cause fuel pressure problems at the load you are pushing...
Every look I look at, the knock sensor is pulling the maximum amount of knock it can at 4.5 degrees... that is not very comforting...
Not sure bud... And your Lambase and Lambda are matching up so its probably not a leaky injector(s)..
I am sure LMS will assist.
Every look I look at, the knock sensor is pulling the maximum amount of knock it can at 4.5 degrees... that is not very comforting...
Not sure bud... And your Lambase and Lambda are matching up so its probably not a leaky injector(s)..
I am sure LMS will assist.
I wonder if the compression test changed any since last time. Z
Reference below
Compression Test
Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
Install a compression gauge in the No. 1 cylinder.
Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.
Compression Test — 3.5L Engine Test Results
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading.
Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.
Compression Test — 3.5L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) Engine Test Results
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.
Compression Test — Interpreting Compression Readings
If compression improves considerably, piston rings are worn or damaged.
If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or not seating correctly.
If 2 adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition.
Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75% of the highest reading.
Cylinder Leakage Detection
When a cylinder produces a low reading, use of a cylinder leakage tester will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause.
The leakage tester is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke, and compressed air is admitted.
Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, the leakage tester gauge will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20% is excessive.
While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve will be heard in the Throttle Body (TB) . A leak at the exhaust valve can be heard at the tailpipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the PCV connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator.
Reference below
Compression Test
Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
Install a compression gauge in the No. 1 cylinder.
Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.
Compression Test — 3.5L Engine Test Results
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading.
Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.
Compression Test — 3.5L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) Engine Test Results
The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.
If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.
Compression Test — Interpreting Compression Readings
If compression improves considerably, piston rings are worn or damaged.
If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or not seating correctly.
If 2 adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition.
Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75% of the highest reading.
Cylinder Leakage Detection
When a cylinder produces a low reading, use of a cylinder leakage tester will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause.
The leakage tester is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke, and compressed air is admitted.
Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, the leakage tester gauge will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20% is excessive.
While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve will be heard in the Throttle Body (TB) . A leak at the exhaust valve can be heard at the tailpipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the PCV connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator.
Hmm I wonder.... have you checked the cam follower that the HPFP rides on? If it is grooved bad enough then the HPFP won't operate at full efficiency...
When you pull it out you can also look at the cam too to make sure the lobe for the HPFP isn't damaged/grooved...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When you pull it out you can also look at the cam too to make sure the lobe for the HPFP isn't damaged/grooved...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
polskifacet
New member
I have a new long block so all the stuff mentioned has less then 10k on it.
polskifacet
New member
What if I were to get race gas and log, that way I can eliminate gas quality. I've been running a 89 octane tune and frp is good.
polskifacet said:
Fuel pressure and octane I don't go hand in hand... at least not that I am aware of...
It would be more tune/load related..
You are holding pressure better in the 89 octane tune probably because it doesn't have the same load on the engine as the 93 tune... lower load = easier on the fueling...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What is your desired tip on the 89 octane tune? I only saw your tune that had a desired tip of 186 kpa...is the 89 octane tune less?
Lower load will be lower mass airflow which will require less fuel mass delivered which will help to not consume the fuel in the rail
If the 89 octane tune is better and the desired tip is the same then that is either because the temps are warmer or the 91 octane tune file is possibly corrupted my guess...uncommon though
Lower load will be lower mass airflow which will require less fuel mass delivered which will help to not consume the fuel in the rail
If the 89 octane tune is better and the desired tip is the same then that is either because the temps are warmer or the 91 octane tune file is possibly corrupted my guess...uncommon though
polskifacet
New member
Just uploaded 9 89tune and 10 93tune these are with 3 gallons of 100 octane added to 20% fuel left on the gauge. Seems like improvement, will take closer look when I get home.
polskifacet
New member
Without a benchmark volume, I cant do anything else. Hopefully LMS could do it on their shop car. Any additional data is valid imo, could lead to clues.
BoostedSho2010
New member
Maybe not enough timing ? I have got pretty good at reading my data logs my car like a lot of timing. I have 2 different tunes from different tuners I compare. Big difference
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BoostedSho2010
New member
BoostedSho2010 said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BoostedSho2010
New member
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BoostedSho2010 said:
good vs not good to much ethanol knock stopped pressure dropped
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IMO, fuel pressure issues with "too much ethanol" is due to having too much ethanol, you need more volume of ethanol than of normal gas, so if the mix was too heavy on ethanol fuel needed would be higher, thus taxing pumps more. That is my .02 on that.
BoostedSho2010
New member
Yea I was trying to stop knock and it did but was not safederfdog15 said:BoostedSho2010 said:good vs not good to much ethanol knock stopped pressure dropped
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IMO, fuel pressure issues with "too much ethanol" is due to having too much ethanol, you need more volume of ethanol than of normal gas, so if the mix was too heavy on ethanol fuel needed would be higher, thus taxing pumps more. That is my .02 on that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk