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"How-To" RDU Fluid Exchange - glock-coma
- Thread starter SHOdded
- Start date
First and foremost, Thanks for the How-to Glock. I was able to get the time today to complete this project. Car has about 42k+ miles. I was able to extract about 50oz. of fluid by jacking the front of the car of higher then the back end. Fluid still looked really good for the amount of miles.
Linemonkey
Member
Has anyone with a 13+ PP pulled this off without a lift? Give us a drain plug, then cover it up...brilliant
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Linemonkey
Member
Found the thread in how-to's. My bad
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
AJP turbo said:I just popped the cover when I changed mine. Just have to buy some RTV and you can wipe out more old fluid with a towel.
no issues with this? I want to have mine replaced soon, and the ford workshop manual says if the rdu cover is stamped steel (basically non ecoboost rdu), you can pop it off to drain and silicone it back up. it states that if the cover is aluminum (ecoboost) replace the rdu, it's not serviceable (even though there is a plug in the cover...). I would rather have the mechanic remove the cover and get all the crappy 80w90 out and replace with my 75w90 amsoil.
In my honest opinion, don't bother changing the rear differential gear oil. On my older RWD cars, I could punish the heck out of them after 100k miles using non-synth 80W-90 and the gear oil looked fine with minimal metal shavings. On the D3/D4 AWD vehicles, the rear differential is a much smaller unit and you're not sending all the power to the back. Plus, these are essentially open carriers as well so there are no clutch/steel packs or torsen gears spinning around. I wouldn't bother, but if you absolutely want to change it, a suction pump would make it easier without having to pull the cover or mess with RTV/sealing.
cseverens said:AJP turbo said:I just popped the cover when I changed mine. Just have to buy some RTV and you can wipe out more old fluid with a towel.
no issues with this? I want to have mine replaced soon, and the ford workshop manual says if the rdu cover is stamped steel (basically non ecoboost rdu), you can pop it off to drain and silicone it back up. it states that if the cover is aluminum (ecoboost) replace the rdu, it's not serviceable (even though there is a plug in the cover...). I would rather have the mechanic remove the cover and get all the crappy 80w90 out and replace with my 75w90 amsoil.
DOn't overthink it...No issues....It's just like any other rear end and there was shavings on the magnet ...I changed my fluid with less than 2k on the car to put real synthetic gear lube in. It's absolutely serviceable...I don't remember if the clutches in the electronic portion of the RDU are exposed to fluid or not but for me it's worth the 15$ qt of amsoil and a tube of RTV to have the best stuff in there.
AJP turbo said:cseverens said:AJP turbo said:I just popped the cover when I changed mine. Just have to buy some RTV and you can wipe out more old fluid with a towel.
no issues with this? I want to have mine replaced soon, and the ford workshop manual says if the rdu cover is stamped steel (basically non ecoboost rdu), you can pop it off to drain and silicone it back up. it states that if the cover is aluminum (ecoboost) replace the rdu, it's not serviceable (even though there is a plug in the cover...). I would rather have the mechanic remove the cover and get all the crappy 80w90 out and replace with my 75w90 amsoil.
DOn't overthink it...No issues....It's just like any other rear end and there was shavings on the magnet ...I changed my fluid with less than 2k on the car to put real synthetic gear lube in. It's absolutely serviceable...I don't remember if the clutches in the electronic portion of the RDU are exposed to fluid or not but for me it's worth the 15$ qt of amsoil and a tube of RTV to have the best stuff in there.
The rear differential is separate from the viscous coupling unit. I guess use whatever makes you think it is running better, but my recommendation is to save your money and time and not bother with the rear differential on the D3/D4 AWD vehicles.
Absolutely NOT the way to think about this. Sure the RDU fluid lasts longer, but fluid does wear out. Considering that the newer MYs can send nearly 100% power (be it momentary) to the back wheels, easy to justify why.
Now, does the PTU need more maintenance. Definitely. It does most of the heavy lifting, being in a FWD-biased system. So you do not have to service the RDU as often as the PTU. But preventive maintenance is good practice, period. RDUs have been known to vent fluid, and grind and whine their way to death. Changing the fluid is easy peasy compared to the PTU. Just do it.
Now, does the PTU need more maintenance. Definitely. It does most of the heavy lifting, being in a FWD-biased system. So you do not have to service the RDU as often as the PTU. But preventive maintenance is good practice, period. RDUs have been known to vent fluid, and grind and whine their way to death. Changing the fluid is easy peasy compared to the PTU. Just do it.
I didn't know Ford claimed the rear diff fluid was lifetime, but my experience has been that the fluid in the back lasts a long time, like 100k+ miles. And this is also from personal experience with RWD cars that send 100% of the power to the back all the time 24/7. I know the AWD meter on the instrument panel shows a lot of power going to the back wheels during takeoff (even on my 2014 SHO) but it's not wearing down the fluid anytime soon. The PTU fluid should be changed every 20k miles, even with the factory "cooler".
Again if you feel the need to spend the money on Amsoil for the rear diff to make yourself feel better, it's not going to hurt but my recommendation is to not bother. Maybe change it at high mileage (100k miles or so) if you feel the need.
Again if you feel the need to spend the money on Amsoil for the rear diff to make yourself feel better, it's not going to hurt but my recommendation is to not bother. Maybe change it at high mileage (100k miles or so) if you feel the need.
This forum officially recommends: Change the RDU fluid at every other PTU fluid change. Motorcraft will probably be fine, but if you can step up to a top notch product like Amsoil or Redline, why not?
Just like with engine oil, the change interval is just as if not more important. The "lower" the quality of fluid you use, the more often you should be changing it.
Just like with engine oil, the change interval is just as if not more important. The "lower" the quality of fluid you use, the more often you should be changing it.
Normal vs Severe conditions! Z
Ford goes even further and for some models for normal driving conditions does not recommend changing synthetic gear oil in rear axles and power take off (PTO) units (transfer cases), saying they are lubricated for life. However, we found plenty of disagreement among technical experts.
http://www.testingautos.com/car_care/how-often-to-change-gear-oil.html
Ford goes even further and for some models for normal driving conditions does not recommend changing synthetic gear oil in rear axles and power take off (PTO) units (transfer cases), saying they are lubricated for life. However, we found plenty of disagreement among technical experts.
http://www.testingautos.com/car_care/how-often-to-change-gear-oil.html
Well, one could have the "good enough" attitude about fluids but...
The Quantum Blue PTU/RDU made an immediate difference in the power going to the rear of the 15
The car felt different, the chassis felt looser, kind of felt like the rear of the car "decoupled" from the front.
The rears spun immediately with part throttle from a stop and that was from the second I left the dealership. Rear roasty roast in first became easy to invoke with nothing but a blip of the throttle and the car became a handful in the rain as I could get the car completely sideways. I actually had to have Brad adjust my throttle settings to tame it a bit because I came very close to completely losing it one day on my way to work.
Hows that possible? Less friction and heat equals more power to the ground.
Brian claimed a complete fluid change was good for 15-35 HP at the wheels depending on platform and I tend to believe that based on my experience.
I went with Amsoil all the way around this time so I can see if the effect is the same (Amsoil is about half the price of QB fluids) but if not I will drain out the Amsoil and replace with QB.
Personally I'd rather spend money on high quality fluids that protect my investment instead bolt ons that really don't do squat.
The Quantum Blue PTU/RDU made an immediate difference in the power going to the rear of the 15
The car felt different, the chassis felt looser, kind of felt like the rear of the car "decoupled" from the front.
The rears spun immediately with part throttle from a stop and that was from the second I left the dealership. Rear roasty roast in first became easy to invoke with nothing but a blip of the throttle and the car became a handful in the rain as I could get the car completely sideways. I actually had to have Brad adjust my throttle settings to tame it a bit because I came very close to completely losing it one day on my way to work.
Hows that possible? Less friction and heat equals more power to the ground.
Brian claimed a complete fluid change was good for 15-35 HP at the wheels depending on platform and I tend to believe that based on my experience.
I went with Amsoil all the way around this time so I can see if the effect is the same (Amsoil is about half the price of QB fluids) but if not I will drain out the Amsoil and replace with QB.
Personally I'd rather spend money on high quality fluids that protect my investment instead bolt ons that really don't do squat.
metroplex said:I didn't know Ford claimed the rear diff fluid was lifetime, but my experience has been that the fluid in the back lasts a long time, like 100k+ miles. Maybe change it at high mileage (100k miles or so) if you feel the need.
I have 91k on her now. I bought it less than 2 years ago with 42k miles on it. I don't believe in lifetime fluids.
Keep us posted, I am close to oil change time and while she is up in the air showing her naughty bits I might as well give her a thorough vaccination panel... I did PTU at last oil change, RDU now, and then synch them up in next series.FoMoCoSHO said:I went with Amsoil all the way around this time so I can see if the effect is the same (Amsoil is about half the price of QB fluids) but if not I will drain out the Amsoil and replace with QB.
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