"How-To" Replacing Blend Door Actuator Instructions

  It may be the actuator also on the passengers side, located to the left of the unit behind the glovebox door. It is the one that fixed the issue in my 2010 after first replacing the glovebox unit to no avail.
 
Night Hawk said:
  It may be the actuator also on the passengers side, located to the left of the unit behind the glovebox door. It is the one that fixed the issue in my 2010 after first replacing the glovebox unit to no avail.

Right...that is the one I need to change. In your picture, it is to the left, and you can see the bottom bolt. There is some plastic monstrosity in front of the actuator and it seems impossible to get to the other bolt or electrical connector without breaking something.
 
  Yes I did swear a lot  in removing it lol.  The mechanic at Tasca providing install advice was surprised I was able to pull it off.  One of the reinstall tricks I do remember was to dremel the far side attachment loop that the bolt holds down in like a hook with enough clearance to be able to reach up and start the threading of the bolt then "hang" the hook over it enough that you can tighten it without loosing your mind.
 
What a pain....the part I ordered is #AA5Z19E616A. This is actually the defrost/panel blend door actuator. The part I am trying to replace is #AA5Z19E616C....except the old part is labeled AA5Z19E616BA

So annoying. Now I have ordered all 3

I quit. The passenger side is going to stay hot for a while. Time to eat some hard boiled eggs and ham. Happy Easter
 
i forsee myself ordering all 3 of these and replacing them all at once... i'm at about 62k miles, so why not just call it ONE AND DONE till the next time.
 
peppelepugh said:
i forsee myself ordering all 3 of these and replacing them all at once... i'm at about 62k miles, so why not just call it ONE AND DONE till the next time.

Change the hard one first......then life will be good.
 
finally got mine done after years of listening to that horrible sound. Ive heard my driver side one do it a couple times but it wasnt as loud and less often. im starting to think i should have done it myself lol 100 bucks on warranty.
 
my a/c temp feels the same between 60-73*. Temp gets warmer at 74* and colder at 73 again.

doesn't feel like its blowing as cold as it should on both sides I rarely use the dual climate. Could this be a blend door actuator symptom ?
 
THere should be a self-test that can be run, and it will be in the FSM.  I have my Edge's FSM, not sure it will work the same way:

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module — Diagnostic Methods

The electronic automatic temperature control (EATC) system must be diagnosed by first retrieving any DTCs, if present.

An on-demand (hard fault) DTC indicates that the fault is currently present. An on-demand DTC suggests a wiring fault, disconnected connector or component failure.
A continuous (intermittent) DTC alone (corresponding on-demand DTC is not present) indicates that the fault is an intermittent condition and may not be currently present. A continuous only DTC suggests a poor wiring connection, loose pin or terminal or intermittent component failure.
On-demand (hard fault) or continuous (intermittent fault) DTCs can be retrieved using a scan tool. If using a scan tool, refer to the scan tool operating manual.

On-demand DTCs can also be retrieved by carrying out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module On-Demand Self Test. To retrieve and/or clear continuous DTCs, carry out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure. Always carry out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module On-Demand Self Test before retrieving continuous DTCs.

If no DTCs are present, GO to Symptom Chart for the appropriate diagnostic action.

EATC Module On-Demand Self Test

The EATC Module On-Demand Self Test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the EATC Module On-Demand Self Test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.

The EATC Module On-Demand Self Test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC Module On-Demand Self Test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°C-38°C (40°F-100°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within 2 seconds. The display will show a flashing "----" for a maximum of 20 seconds, after which "8888" will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present, the EATC module will display the on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module DTC Chart and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists, but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart condition: The EATC System is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

EATC Module — Retrieve Continuous DTCs

The EATC module will retrieve only continuous (intermittent) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.

Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the RECIRC button within 2 seconds. The display will show a flashing "----" for a maximum of 20 seconds, after which "8888" will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. If DTCs are present, the EATC module will display the continuous DTCs present. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module DTC Chart and follow the ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart condition: The EATC System is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the retrieved continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module and Electronic Manual Temperature Control (EMTC) Module Cold Boot Process

The purpose of the cold boot process is to allow the EATC or EMTC module to reinitialize. To carry out the cold boot process, follow the steps below.

NOTE: EATC only.

Clear the DTCs.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Disconnect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
Inspect module connectors for:
corrosion.
pushed-out connectors.
incorrectly seated connector.
Wait one minute.
Connect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Select any position except OFF on the EATC or EMTC module.
The EATC or EMTC module will now initialize.
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but how do you know which one needs to be replaced? If I'm understanding correctly, there are 3 of these, 2 behind the glove box and 1 underneath the steering wheel. Is there a way to tell which one is bad or do you just replace them all? (I.e. no heat on passenger side = x actuator)
 
Wardog692 said:
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but how do you know which one needs to be replaced? If I'm understanding correctly, there are 3 of these, 2 behind the glove box and 1 underneath the steering wheel. Is there a way to tell which one is bad or do you just replace them all? (I.e. no heat on passenger side = x actuator)
I think the most obvious would be hearing a repeated clicking sound.  Z   
2i8FGhdh.jpg
 
Been alot of talk in this thread about how hard it is to get the actuator out that is buried by the electrical connector.  Any tips on how to get that connector out of the way so you can access both fasteners and remove the actuator?
 
Back
Top