Agentlongwood
New member
Aww man, so you went with the powder coat. That's gunna look so damn good. Sigh... going to be a bit jealous when I look back at my duplicolored calipers, lol.
Installed EBC pads/rotors and painted calipers
- Thread starter Agentlongwood
- Start date
avidmotion
New member
Love the yellowstuff pads but.....my mechanic while putting on the new struts noticed the pads he put on 2 months or 2,200 miles ago and commented that they are down 25% already.....wtf....I not race at track etc. I on par to get 18,000 to 20,000 miles out of the front set!
I don't think 20k is bad for yellow stuff...They are a pretty aggressive pad....I have the yellows in the rear of my fusion and the bluestuff in the front...I expect more than 20k but I have them in the rear...If I don't get 20k from the front I'm ok with that also though.
You could do front pads in less than 2 hours from wheel on to wheel back on so I don't think that's bad...You could get some EBC green or red that would last much longer but not perform...Performance has it's cost.
You could do front pads in less than 2 hours from wheel on to wheel back on so I don't think that's bad...You could get some EBC green or red that would last much longer but not perform...Performance has it's cost.
The Lincoln came with Yellowstuff and they are no joke, they are a huge improvement to the weak gen 4.1 brakes. To make that much difference in an overweight and underbraked platform pretty much guarantees they aren't going to be a long lasting pad.avidmotion said:
For me the initial bite is actually a little too aggressive, especially in snow and rain.
Hopefully the Redstuffs will be more linear and wear longer.
I ordered my brakes on 12/11 and still don't have them.
They were initially out of rear kits which was fine as the fronts are what need replaced, they said they'd split the shipment and send the fronts.
I reached out Tuesday and they said they would investigate and I'd hear back in 24 hours...didn't happen.
Called today, closed.
If I don't get these brakes quick i'm going to have to cancel and mate my pretty rotors with OEM 4.2 parts.
(Insert colorful expletives here)
They were initially out of rear kits which was fine as the fronts are what need replaced, they said they'd split the shipment and send the fronts.
I reached out Tuesday and they said they would investigate and I'd hear back in 24 hours...didn't happen.
Called today, closed.
If I don't get these brakes quick i'm going to have to cancel and mate my pretty rotors with OEM 4.2 parts.
(Insert colorful expletives here)
bpd1151
Active member
I'm not sure where all this 4.1 and 4.2 nomenclature came from....
But that terminology is INCORRECT.
I really wish those guys that are using it, STOP. Please.
Especially as new owners come on board, and into the SHO fold/family.
2010's through 2012's are GENERATION 4.
2013's to current MY's are GENERATION 5.
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But that terminology is INCORRECT.
I really wish those guys that are using it, STOP. Please.
Especially as new owners come on board, and into the SHO fold/family.
2010's through 2012's are GENERATION 4.
2013's to current MY's are GENERATION 5.
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bpd1151
Active member
Consider it what you want, officially from the long standing SHO Club, the GEN's are defined as I've outlined.AJP turbo said:
That organization names them, not I.
I simply provide the correct info, so these other "point" descriptions don't continue festering. That's all.
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SHO generation lesson.
89 to 91 Gen 1
92 to 95 Gen 2
96 to 99 Gen 3
10 to 12 Gen 4
13 to current model Gen 5
As some say the 13 to current model is just a refresh. So was the Gen 2 compared to the Gen 1. Lots of parts are interchangeable between the two. Those Generations arent refered to as Gen 1.1 or Gen 1.2. The only real changed in the SHO generations is the Gen 3. I've owned all generations of the SHO. This is how they are referred as.
89 to 91 Gen 1
92 to 95 Gen 2
96 to 99 Gen 3
10 to 12 Gen 4
13 to current model Gen 5
As some say the 13 to current model is just a refresh. So was the Gen 2 compared to the Gen 1. Lots of parts are interchangeable between the two. Those Generations arent refered to as Gen 1.1 or Gen 1.2. The only real changed in the SHO generations is the Gen 3. I've owned all generations of the SHO. This is how they are referred as.
Agentlongwood
New member
To me the brakes feel great. It certainly stops hard, when needed. I had not done a full force panic-stop before I got the new pads and rotors, so I can't compare before and after for full force. In normal operation they feel about the same as factory. The USR rotors are 100% silent in normal driving. I have not heard a single squeak or any noise from the slotting. Until the black coating wore off the rotors they made a groaning noise. Took maybe 20 minutes of driving. It scared the crap out of me when I first put them on lol.
Once all the bedding in is done, the dust seems about the same as the factory pads. The instructions were to put 200 miles on them BEFORE bedding. So for that first 200 miles, and bedding procedure they put out a TON of dust. That dust seems to have been from the break in coating on the pads, and possibly the stuff on the rotors. But yeah, the wheels were filthy for that first 200 miles. Now it's fine, seems same as stock.
The bed in procedure was to brake hard 5 times from 60 down to 20, (if I remember right). I was pretty merciless, when I did this. I got on the brakes really hard when I did the bedding. And it really shocked me how hard the car stopped. I Again, I never did this before the new pads and rotors, so maybe it was good before... but damn, it stops hard now.
I did rotors and pads because when I went to the track, the car would shudder under braking from ~105mph. With the new setup it is perfectly smooth. It will still make a humming noise under medium-hard braking from above 100mph, but it is perfectly smooth, no shaking, no pedal pulsing. And It does feel like it is easier to slow down after crossing the finish at the track, but I cannot be sure that isn't placebo.
As for wear, I only have a little over 1000 miles on them. Mostly suburban driving with 1 trip to the drag strip. I'll be honest, I haven't looked at the pads yet to see if they are worn down, lol. But with so little driving I didn't think it would be any noticeable amount of wear.
If you have anything else you want to know that I missed, just let me know.
Once all the bedding in is done, the dust seems about the same as the factory pads. The instructions were to put 200 miles on them BEFORE bedding. So for that first 200 miles, and bedding procedure they put out a TON of dust. That dust seems to have been from the break in coating on the pads, and possibly the stuff on the rotors. But yeah, the wheels were filthy for that first 200 miles. Now it's fine, seems same as stock.
The bed in procedure was to brake hard 5 times from 60 down to 20, (if I remember right). I was pretty merciless, when I did this. I got on the brakes really hard when I did the bedding. And it really shocked me how hard the car stopped. I Again, I never did this before the new pads and rotors, so maybe it was good before... but damn, it stops hard now.
I did rotors and pads because when I went to the track, the car would shudder under braking from ~105mph. With the new setup it is perfectly smooth. It will still make a humming noise under medium-hard braking from above 100mph, but it is perfectly smooth, no shaking, no pedal pulsing. And It does feel like it is easier to slow down after crossing the finish at the track, but I cannot be sure that isn't placebo.
As for wear, I only have a little over 1000 miles on them. Mostly suburban driving with 1 trip to the drag strip. I'll be honest, I haven't looked at the pads yet to see if they are worn down, lol. But with so little driving I didn't think it would be any noticeable amount of wear.
If you have anything else you want to know that I missed, just let me know.
