It arrived!!

BBOX said:
+1 on Torrie being the balls.

I'm trying to come up with a whitty response....but, as long as Torrie is ok being the balls, then so am I. He must have an electronic device in his hands at all times. I was fully expecting to have to wait on receiving my tunes since I am on the west coast, but he had them done in about an hour!! AWESOMENESS!!
 
BiGMaC said:
I'd change the plugs.... At least regal them to .030.  This will be insurance against detonation (knock) and spark blowout/cylinder misfire.

Both cause sub optimal performance and cause the ECU to pull timing (7.5 degrees max) to protect the engine.

My vote, again, take 45 min and change the plugs. Then you get a permanent smile with your tune
wait this is the first I've seen of this? I have to buy the plugs to have a tune? All I've read we're tune 3 bar & t-stat
 
FastSHO23 said:
BiGMaC said:
I'd change the plugs.... At least regal them to .030.  This will be insurance against detonation (knock) and spark blowout/cylinder misfire.

Both cause sub optimal performance and cause the ECU to pull timing (7.5 degrees max) to protect the engine.

My vote, again, take 45 min and change the plugs. Then you get a permanent smile with your tune
wait this is the first I've seen of this? I have to buy the plugs to have a tune? All I've read we're tune 3 bar & t-shirt

Yes,  highly recommended to change plugs to Motorcraft SP534s gapped at .030.
 
BiGMaC said:
elund126 said:
I had to order the plugs from O-Reilly's because they didn't have any in stock. I got a voice mail that they are in, so I will hopefully have time to pick them up tomorrow and install.

Until then, I'm trying not to hammer the skinny pedal too much! ;)

.... One other reason to do it before you tune. 

A small percentage of SHOs have a faulty valve cover gasket/spark plug well seal and may have one full of oil.... I found this on the #6 (river's side rear, about 3-3.5" of oil)... You'll want to know and if so get it fixed before you flash the ECU. It delayed my tune, but saved my 70k Ford BTB extended warranty.

I had the same issue with one of the seals on the rear bank. I told the dealer it was tuned. They didn't care. A tune isn't going to cause that seal to come of place.
 
DONT be a gorilla and over tighten the plugs,the aluminuim heads are very fragile and just a little touch of antiseize in the plugs and some dielectric grease on the boots and your all set.
 
elund126 said:
Most of the holes were dry. Except the front bank on the driver's side. Had a bit of oil in it.
geze2y7u.jpg


Here is the old plug.
dapadu5e.jpg

After about 1800 miles I found about an inch of oil in the #6 spark plug well just like you.... I towed it to the dealer due to concerns over an engine fire... Dealer replaced the head gasket and spark plug well seal, a half day job.  No oil since then.  I believe this is a frequent problem, and primarily related to this particular spark plug well.
 
FastSHO23 said:
BiGMaC said:
I'd change the plugs.... At least regal them to .030.  This will be insurance against detonation (knock) and spark blowout/cylinder misfire.

Both cause sub optimal performance and cause the ECU to pull timing (7.5 degrees max) to protect the engine.

My vote, again, take 45 min and change the plugs. Then you get a permanent smile with your tune
wait this is the first I've seen of this? I have to buy the plugs to have a tune? All I've read we're tune 3 bar & t-stat

I have a 3 bar and a tune--It does fine without the t-stat or plug
 
Josephm said:
FastSHO23 said:
BiGMaC said:
I'd change the plugs.... At least regal them to .030.  This will be insurance against detonation (knock) and spark blowout/cylinder misfire.

Both cause sub optimal performance and cause the ECU to pull timing (7.5 degrees max) to protect the engine.

My vote, again, take 45 min and change the plugs. Then you get a permanent smile with your tune
wait this is the first I've seen of this? I have to buy the plugs to have a tune? All I've read we're tune 3 bar & t-stat

I have a 3 bar and a tune--It does fine without the t-stat or plug

Don't have to change the plugs... Just might want to do with the miles and taking them out.  The regap is what's important.  T-stat... your choice... a cooler engine (once it's warmed up) makes more power... more boost means hotter combustion.  the 3BAR is about using higher boost.  T-stat is cheaper than plugs and takes 10 minutes to change the first time you do it... if you change t-stat be sure the tune is adjusted to start the fans at lower temps.
 
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