LMS Tune, Transmission Slips & Traction Control

14shocar I have no idea what you are talking about...have u ever seen the parameters in a calibration?...the torque tables have nothing to do with what you mentioned....the x and y axis are Newton meters of torque and rpm....that's it.

Torque curves are for dynos and that's not what's being referenced here about the torque tables in the tune...I'm struggling with how u think u know some of these things but can't get the traction control off.....do u have a non pp? Then you can't disable advance trax completely
 
I haven't seen any of the tables in this ECUs logic control.

But, I'll bet like you said, ajp, torque is assumed by formulations using airflow and fuel as datapoints. I'm not familiar with a speed density system either though.

TC based on input from wheel speed sensors. And then the output limiting or failsafe control measures by limiting fuel or closing throttle.

However, it is possible that those control measures (throttle closure) are used when TC is on and slip is detected by speed sensor data input. This is common in lieu of LSD. 
 
IHeartGroceries said:
I haven't seen any of the tables in this ECUs logic control.

But, I'll bet like you said, ajp, torque is assumed by formulations using airflow and fuel as datapoints. I'm not familiar with a speed density system either though.

TC based on input from wheel speed sensors. And then the output limiting or failsafe control measures by limiting fuel or closing throttle.

However, it is possible that those control measures (throttle closure) are used when TC is on and slip is detected by speed sensor data input. This is common in lieu of LSD.

I was misreading the context. I thought you were talking about torque in general, not just on a dyno.

ajpturbo said:
I'm struggling with how u think u know some of these things but can't get the traction control off.....do u have a non pp? Then you can't disable advance trax completely

Per this article: https://social.ford.com/our-articles/cars/sho/new-taurus-sho-inspired-by-club-enthusiasts-and-customers/
"SHO dynamics have been enhanced with larger brakes, torque vectoring control – using slight braking to provide the effect of a limited-slip differential – and unique sport-tuned suspension."


FoMoCoSHO said:
On the 2015, holding the brake and tapping the button increases the thresholds and holding for 5 seconds disables completely.

There isn't "a button" on my system is what I'm saying. I only have the screen menus.

I know this may sound pretty strange, but how do I definitively know if I have the performance package?
Per this: http://www.topspeed.com/cars/ford/2014-ford-taurus-sho-ar160382.html
"SHO Performance Package: 20-in. bright machined painted aluminum wheels, performance summer compound tires, performance brake pads, heavy-duty cooling system, EPAS specially calibrated steering, ESC track mode, 3:16:1 final drive gear ratio, tire mobility kit, Alcantara suede steering wheel"

I have to 20" rims, but that could be part of the 401a feature group. I do have an S selection on my shifter, but that could be a standard thing. I have Michelin 245/45R20 99V tires... Are the "performance summer compound tires" tires z rated?

I don't' have a reference point for the cooling system, so I don't know if it's "Heavy Duty".  Is there any other tell tale signs?



 
Alcantara wheel would be the easiest...look at ur window sticker under options look for sho performance package...ask fomoco about the traction control for a 15 or read the manual
 
ajpturbo said:
Alcantara wheel would be the easiest...look at ur window sticker under options look for sho performance package...ask fomoco about the traction control for a 15 or read the manual

It sounds like I have a non-pp :(..

The problem as I didn't get a window sticker because I bought this used.

That explains a lot here... I wonder if I can get the upgraded cooling components...

Specifically the oil cooler and radiator...
 
If you have the Michelins as stated earlier and a spare tire in the trunk then you have a non-PP,and who could miss that loud annoying collission alert on top of the drivers dash.
 
14SHOCAR said:
It sounds like I have a non-pp :(..

The problem as I didn't get a window sticker because I bought this used.

That explains a lot here... I wonder if I can get the upgraded cooling components...

Specifically the oil cooler and radiator...

Yes, all of the auxiliary cooling components can easily be retro-fitted.

The only exception being the rear diff / PTU cooler, which is more involved.

There are links online where you can punch in your V.I.N. & be able to obtain both your window sticker &/or options list.

Currently not at a desktop to find & post them for you, but perhaps SHOdded can/will. He's very helpful/knowledgeable like that.

 
So what is the consensus on changing out the fluids in the drivetrain?

Where do you go to get this work done? Is it 100% dealership?

What parts do I need to take off? I'll put back the 2 bar, stock tune, but anything else (intake)??

When get the cat + exhaust, that will be a bit more of a pain to do... thoughts?
 
What would make u think the dealership is the only place that does fluids?...sorry you're making me evil......I say get that poop fluid out and change them all out asap
 
14SHOCAR said:
So what is the consensus on changing out the fluids in the drivetrain?

Where do you go to get this work done? Is it 100% dealership?

What parts do I need to take off? I'll put back the 2 bar, stock tune, but anything else (intake)??

When get the cat + exhaust, that will be a bit more of a pain to do... thoughts?

For dealership work more than Quicklane oil change always go back to stock tune.  Of course for those of us with 3BARs also change that. No dealers in PHX will do the ptu as Ford will then hold them liable if the part fails, rather than Ford corporate... I actually had this conversation with the service manager at my dealership.

Don't know about consensus... But 15K-25K for these fluids IMHO... you'll need a suction pump as the PTU has no drain plug and you'll be working through the vent. Most people are doing it multiple times at one operation to try to get more of the old fluid out...there are several threads on doing this and listing fluid types/capacities.  If the ptu fluid is thick blackened junk or has metal in it I'd recommend finding someone to remove it and clean it properly.

I don't think AM pipes will add to the difficulty.
 
BiGMaC said:
Don't know about consensus... But 15K-25K for these fluids IMHO... you'll need a suction pump as the PTU has no drain plug and you'll be working through the vent.

So what you're saying is I can't take it to a lube place to replace this fluid or the rear diff? We have a place out here called hands on garage which has the lifts, tools etc to do whatever you need to for a vehicle. I'd consider doing the fluids if I can find the right stuff + weight.

ajpturbo said:
sorry you're making me evil..
evil-cows-meme-20.jpg

 
14SHOCAR said:
BiGMaC said:
Don't know about consensus... But 15K-25K for these fluids IMHO... you'll need a suction pump as the PTU has no drain plug and you'll be working through the vent.

So what you're saying is I can't take it to a lube place to replace this fluid or the rear diff? We have a place out here called hands on garage which has the lifts, tools etc to do whatever you need to for a vehicle. I'd consider doing the fluids if I can find the right stuff + weight.

ajpturbo said:
sorry you're making me evil..
evil-cows-meme-20.jpg

Take it anywhere you trust!  Check out the lubricants though.  I have a 7 year factory maintenance policy on my car... but I take them the oil, etc...you may want to do the same wherever you go.

I do think it's good to have a relationship with the service folks at a Ford house... it has come in handy for me.
 
Id love to have a relationship with a dealer but I just can't bring myself to mess with them anymore when they tell me they have to drop the ptu to do the fluid lol...it tells me they are either stupid or dishonest so either way they aren't worth my time
 
Honestly, I'd prefer to have the unit R&R'd and opened once off for a real inspection and cleaning.... no dealer i'm near will touch it unless it fails.
 
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