More problems 2010 sho

S

Spyder3000gtvr4

New member
So I got the car a few months back as a donor for a build. Decided it was to nice to chop up and decided to make it a spare dd. I’ve put less then 10 miles on the car since I got it. Bought the car sight unseen with 150k was told it needed turbos. Replaced the turbos with turbos that had 20k (I thought they were new, Long story) put the turbos on super fun btw. the CEL is on (not sure if it was on before the turbo swap) changed all the fluids. The old oil wasn’t milky and looked like it was done fairly recent. So i decide to do the timing chain the car has 150k and I have zero service history and more then likely reason for the codes. I just took off the intake and valve covers off and the oil with about 10 miles on it is milky. Antifreeze looks like new still with some copper fleaking in it, normal??? 1 of the intake runners is spotless front passenger side. All the others are blackish

Soooooooo is one of my recent turbos bad? Installed wrong? (Can’t imagine that) headgasket all the sudden go out?  I guess at this point I might as well pop the head and do the head gaskets right? No I didn’t do a compression or leak down test wasn’t expecting yummy chocolate milk oil.
 
I feel bad about all the mischief as of late! Its sometimes an expensive gamble.  Z



[flash=480,380]https://www.youtube.com/embed/71itwBP7akA[/flash]​
 
Thanks for the video al of my driving was short but I did check the dipstick as I had to pull it out when removing the the valve cover and thought well that doesn’t look right. I just can’t believe that I apparently blew the headgasket after changing the turbos. 😔
 
You did the water pump along with the timing chains, right?  Head gasket failure on a SHO is rare, but yeah without a compression test, we are guessing.  Having the #s will help narrow the field for sure.  Sometimes a block will crack and cause all kinds of problems.  Was the clean side bank 2 or bank 1?  There tends to be uneven air flow and uneven levels of deposits between the banks.  Usually bank 2 is cleaner.
 
I took the intake and valve covers off that’s point I’m at so far. I haven’t gotten to the chain and pump yet. There is def some play in the chain. As far as the clean intake it’s the front of the engine passenger side just 1 runner not the entire side. Not sure what bank is which.
 
Did you ever check out to see what codes are being thrown by the engine. Instead of chasing problems you may or may not have, pulling info from the ECM may be of some help.
 
yow that's a lot of codes. Based on the codes, it sounds like your VCT solenoids are either unplugged or have gone bad.

Had it been driving ok otherwise?
 
It seemed to be driving fine but I don’t know the car. I got to work on it a little today couldn’t figure out the exact location to lock the cam locks on as the chains marks didn’t line up where it was supposed to. So I ignored the chain and went off the tdc on the rear passenger cylinder (#1) and the timing marks on the intake gears. But the problem is I don’t have this mystery tool to lock the crankshaft pulley. Can’t find any information on it and I might have just messed up the head. I put the cam locks in and figured I’d use the timing chain to hold the crankshaft pulley and jumped the timing 2 teeth. Can’t wait to find out if I messed anything up now but I’m more annoyed by not being able to find this damn tool (2 pin spanner according to this useless Hayes manual that is not sho specific)
 
I haven't seen any tool necessary for the crank, just the cam locks.  On either the naturally aspirated 3.5 or the Ecoboost version.
 
Well not sure how to lock the motor to loosen the crankshaft bolt to get the pulley off. I can’t imagine its just by putting in the cam locks as I jumped two teeth and can only imagine the damage that’s done to the valves. Here’s a picture in the non specific book.
 
The manual says to use a strap wrench, a 3 jaw puller and an oil seal remover to deal with the crankshaft portion of it before removal of the front cover.  Cam locks are "special tools", but should also be available for "rent" at the local auto parts store if you don't have them.

Using the Strap Wrench, remove the crankshaft bolt and washer.
Discard the bolt.

Using the 3 Jaw Puller, remove the crankshaft pulley.

Using the Oil Seal Remover, remove and discard the crankshaft front seal.
 
So 3 auto stores, harbor freight and a Home Depot later. Only hd had one and it was a cheap one with a rubber band. I made my own and this worked great. This is what should be used in my opinion anyway. It’s not pretty but I was more concerned about getting 1 bolt off all day today.
 
So here’s a silly question, was I supposed to drain the oil before taking off the timing cover? I was going to drain it but since this oh so helpful Haynes repair manual did not state that in there steps I decided that ill leave it in. Roughly 2 quarts of oil on the floor later..... the timing cover is off

But on the bright side the chocolate milk oil looks very delicious and there’s antifreeze drops everywhere.

Quick update. Timing chain actually feels loose to the touch so that’s def a problem but I might have dodged a bullet and tell me if I’m insane but I’m watching antifreeze not oil just antifreeze drip from the waterpump area.... I don’t believe anything I’ve done would have loosened the water pump?!? To the step I’m at...
so I’m not sure should I do the headgaskets since I’m most of the way there? should I pop the heads anyway since I know I jumped two teeth trying to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt to check the valves
 
I just wanted to confirm that the oil and coolant should be drained prior to the procedure. The first 5 min of the video will confirm this. Z



[flash=480,380]https://www.youtube.com/embed/Va6sVtzRZAo[/flash]​
 
So while reassembly I broke the front turbo oil line in the engine. Barely even tightened it. So what are the chances of getting the little threaded piece out? Figure I’m going to be removing the bumper, ac, rad and hope for the best. This car just doesn’t want to be on the road!!!
 
Whats the build date! Need to Confirm you have the correct parts due too So many supercesions especially for the 2010MY!  Z

Return bolts: 8mm
Banjo bolt: 14mm
 
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