NEW BRAKE SOURCE PowerStop thur AutoAnything

I drove a used 2011 before I bought my 13 and the brakes felt vastly different between the two cars.

The 2012 suffered from pad and fluid fade within 5 minutes of driving it (Yeah, I beat on it). The pedal was terrible, it would start hard then get soft and go to the floor. I was unable to lock the wheels up at all. I made them check the brake system (Ford dealership) and they told me everything was good, and that these cars were under braked from the factory. That being said, I still wasn't convinced there wasn't an issue.

The 2013 is the exact opposite,  no fade yet, will lock up before the nannies kick in , and easy to modulate and keep at the threshold of ABS activation. The only issue is a grinding noise I hear from time to time when I've been flogging her. Dealership has yet to find the issue that causes this.

Interestingly enough testing shows the 2013 bests gen 4.1 by only around 8 ft.

Todd is TCE on Focal jet? (I haven't logged in for a long time, lol.)











 
FoMoCoSHO said:
I drove a used 2011 before I bought my 13 and the brakes felt vastly different between the two cars.

The 2012 suffered from pad and fluid fade within 5 minutes of driving it (Yeah, I beat on it). The pedal was terrible, it would start hard then get soft and go to the floor. I was unable to lock the wheels up at all. I made them check the brake system (Ford dealership) and they told me everything was good, and that these cars were under braked from the factory. That being said, I still wasn't convinced there wasn't an issue.

The 2013 is the exact opposite,  no fade yet, will lock up before the nannies kick in , and easy to modulate and keep at the threshold of ABS activation. The only issue is a grinding noise I hear from time to time when I've been flogging her. Dealership has yet to find the issue that causes this.

Interestingly enough testing shows the 2013 bests gen 4.1 by only around 8 ft.
Click to expand...

Plus the OEM brakes used to make this moaning noise when they got hot (which was quick)... I understand that among other things the discs have about a 60% increase in swept area compared to '10's and 11's
 
60% is quite a bit.  I would wonder about that. Wouldn't that mean that the surface of the disc where the pads rub is 60% larger?  That's like 3" wide compared to 2" wide. (Or pad depth)
 
DJE624 said:
60% is quite a bit.  I would wonder about that. Wouldn't that mean that the surface of the disc where the pads rub is 60% larger?  That's like 3" wide compared to 2" wide. (Or pad depth)
Click to expand...
The number is front and rear as it was explained to me.  I don't know if its rotor diameter, pad surface, or both.
 
Brake rotors , Calipers and Pads are all Larger ... Beefed up on the 13+ SHO ; even  more so on the PP upgrade .
 
Has anybody retro fitted a different brake setup on to our cars?

For instance: OEM Mustang rotors and calipers onto our cars? (not sure if this would even be an upgrade, just using it as an idea) Maybe Cobra or GT500 brakes on a SHO??

I dont think anybody has. The only issues Ive had with my car are the brakes. I completely hate them. It seems like if I happen to go over 100mph, and try and lightly/slowly slow down with the brakes, they glaze over and over heat instantly. I dont want to spend the coin on a big brake kit, but Im temted to ditch my EBC red setup, and buy the higher end EBC Rotors, and do EBC Yellow pads to see if that helps with the heat isssue. If I remember correctly, the yellows can handle about double the heat of the reds.
 
so whats the ultimate fix to the brakes? I have the non pp 2010 and have found the brakes to be underpowered at high speeds. I had someone almost lock up on a long road trip and i felt the brakes moan pretty bad it might even have warped the rotor cause it started to feel like it was but then didnt on later hard applications. I thought simply replacing them with the PP 2010 pads would them adequate?
Ive heard good things about slotted rotors with ebc greens but i understand theres a problem with the emergency brake not working.
 
kbeck59 said:
Brake rotors , Calipers and Pads are all Larger ... Beefed up on the 13+ SHO ; even  more so on the PP upgrade .
Click to expand...

It is my understanding that only the pads are different between the PP and non-PP for 13+.
 
i thought it was 2010-12 could use pp pads in the non pp but 13 plus is whole new braking thing as far as i know
 
I believe both your statements are true, PP pad are a more aggressive compound. But brake system is entirely different on 2013+.
As to EBC green stuff, as compared to there red stuffed pads which I have. And comparing there attributes the green stuff is not as aggressive as the red. And for myself I would want any less then I have myself.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
I drove a used 2011 before I bought my 13 and the brakes felt vastly different between the two cars.

The 2012 suffered from pad and fluid fade within 5 minutes of driving it (Yeah, I beat on it). The pedal was terrible, it would start hard then get soft and go to the floor. I was unable to lock the wheels up at all. I made them check the brake system (Ford dealership) and they told me everything was good, and that these cars were under braked from the factory. That being said, I still wasn't convinced there wasn't an issue.

The 2013 is the exact opposite,  no fade yet, will lock up before the nannies kick in , and easy to modulate and keep at the threshold of ABS activation. The only issue is a grinding noise I hear from time to time when I've been flogging her. Dealership has yet to find the issue that causes this.

Interestingly enough testing shows the 2013 bests gen 4.1 by only around 8 ft.

Todd is TCE on Focal jet? (I haven't logged in for a long time, lol.)
Click to expand...


Haven't checked in on 'the jet' in some time. Probably should drop by and say hello.

The difference in the brakes you feel now is that the newer car has a 1/8" larger bore master cylinder in it. That makes for a firmer pedal feel, albeit lower pressure, and more linear and tactical feel. The rest of it is the same.
 
Has anyone ran cryo treated rotors? Is the cryogenic treatment a gimmick or does it actually make the rotor dramatically harder to warp?

I have no issues with warpage, just wanna make sure the rotors I do replace the factories with, look good (slotted) but are also a bit stronger.
 
I have a 2010 and I haven't seen any clips or anything on my stock pads?  Mine slip right on and off when I check them.  I'm at 75K on stock rotors and pads and it's about time to replace my pads. I was gonna do the powerstops with ebc pads, but now a few guys are saying don't do the powerstop rotors? And the ebc pads aren't right either? 

Any suggestions then? What's the most cost effective replacement and easy but not pricey upgrade?  I only street drive mine and I'm not hard on it very often really. 
 
If you are happy with factory, no reason to change!  Though you should change out (or turn) the rotors as well since by now they are "mated" with the old pads.  If you go aftermarket for the pads (more important part than the rotor), make sure to follow their bed-in procedure.
 
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