No start??? Wtf??????

Flexthis2011EB said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
What kind of OBD?

Sounds like it may have caused an issue.

I'd turn on the lights and pull the battery cable.

Let it sit for a while and reconnect.
Click to expand...
A cantech. Cheapy harbor freight scanner. What kind of problems could a scanner have caused?  And whats with turning lights on first before disconnecting battery??
Click to expand...
Cheap electronics can reap all kinds of havoc. Cooked ECM, shorting, corrupting the data stream, and even viruses can't be ruled out either since some of these chips can write data as well.

The Mrs says pull your PCM power relay and check it.
 
AJP turbo said:
More often than I think is acceptable I have had my HVAC have no functionality after a flash....I flash again and all is good....No idea if that's SCT or this ECU...I'd say about 1 in 20 flashes this happens to me
Click to expand...

I had mine read zero fuel and stumble and stutter like it was empty after a reflash.  Was reading zero miles to empty.

Several restarts later, it decided there was fuel in the tank and ran OK.  No idea why.

OP, good luck!  I think the general thing to take from this is to only plug into the OBD port when the car is off.  Not that you should have to do that, but these things seem to be finicky.

 
My best guess overall is that it's the PATS system that isn't happy.  Don't know what to do to reset it, but I would look at it as a possibility.
 
I still stand by an Instrument Cluster/PATS problem.  Injectors won't fire if PATS does not recognize the key.  It's good that it's cranking over at least.  So I would disconnect the battery again with lights on (like FoMoCo instructed) to drain residual charge in the system.  Then try again. 

Preferably, make a video of what is going on once you try to start they car.  A video will convey so much more information, easily.

12.3V on the battery is on the lowish side.  I would get a digital load tester (like the solar BA5/BA7 - really nice units) and check CCAs. I don't believe the battery is the issue though at this point, just to be clear.
 
SHOdded said:
I still stand by an Instrument Cluster/PATS problem.  Injectors won't fire if PATS does not recognize the key.  It's good that it's cranking over at least.  So I would disconnect the battery again with lights on (like FoMoCo instructed) to drain residual charge in the system.  Then try again. 

Preferably, make a video of what is going on once you try to start they car.  A video will convey so much more information, easily.

12.3V on the battery is on the lowish side.  I would get a digital load tester (like the solar BA5/BA7 - really nice units) and check CCAs. I don't believe the battery is the issue though at this point, just to be clear.
Click to expand...
So if it is indeed the PATS system not recognizing the key, is bringing it into dealer the only fix? Do i have to tow car in there or can i get key without car being there? Also the car has been sitting with terminals off batt all night. Gonna go see if anything happens. Ill make video.
 
As far as I know, the dealer is the only one that can fix it, using IDS.  They will have to see if they can retrieve the configuration data from the IPC first.  If they can't, they might have to download asbuilt data and attempt with that, but that would likely mean keys being reprogrammed to the car.  You can contact jmr061 via PM or on his site fordpimods.com to see if he can help you out, that's another option.
 
Thank you all for the input!! After trying literally everything i ran out of options and sent it to ford. Will let eveyone know the outcome.
 
Dealer said its pcm fried.  I find that hard to believe that a pull data only scanner fried the pcm. $1500 for repair. What do yall think?
 
Flexthis2011EB said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
What kind of OBD?

Sounds like it may have caused an issue.

I'd turn on the lights and pull the battery cable.

Let it sit for a while and reconnect.
Click to expand...
A cantech. Cheapy harbor freight scanner. What kind of problems could a scanner have caused?  And whats with turning lights on first before disconnecting battery??
Click to expand...
I think the Chinese got ya. Sorry man that does suck about the 1500 >:(

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
Yea sucks baaaad. Had the car maybe 5 months, replaced engine, both turbos, transmission, now pcm. And to insure that it is in fact a fried pcm, i told them i would like the old pcm back so i can have a buddy of mine test it to check to see if it was indeed fried. Because when i pulled the pcm power connector and then plugged it back in, the throttle plate did its little calibration, and some clicking in the relays and stuff happened like it recieved power from the pcm. I want solid proof before paying that. (Even though i already told them to replace it lol) I just hope they arent lying to me and it was in fact a fried pcm.
 
How much is Ford charging you just to program?  I'd just buy a used one.  Tasca has them if you want a new one.  Check ebay or car-part.com if you want something used.  Shouldn't cost more than $600 for a new one.  Probably a lot less for used. 
 
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