On the fence about getting a tune - someone talk me into it!

Fronzizzle

New member
Based on information I found on this forum (and some others), I was pretty convinced that I was going to get a tune on my new 2014 SHO.  However, after doing more research I'm starting to rethink my decision.

From what I can gather, people put the stock tune back if they have to take the car to the dealer.  But, the more I read about getting a tune, it seems that you don't get the full benefit unless you (1) change to a 3 bar MAP sensor and (2) install new plugs and/or thermostat.  So, after I do the tune...what do I do if I need to take the car to the dealer?  Do I take out the 3 bar MAP sensor, too?  What about the plugs or thermostat?  And, what happens if the car dies?  Will I be able to put the stock tune back if the car won't start or just quits running?

I was thinking about putting some miles on the car first, make sure everything is okay before doing the tune.  The problem is, I don't drive that much and the car is a lease.  So if I try to put, say, 10,000 miles on it, that'll take me until the end of next July before doing the tune.

And...well, the car is pretty fast as-is.  I'm not going to be taking it to the strip or anything like that, just driving it around.

I'm very disappointed in myself for doubting whether or not I should do this.  Somebody please talk some sense into me.

 
I'm in somewhat same boat.  I have 8k miles on my '13 and was going to wait a while to make sure no issues pop up to keep my warranty 100%.  I took my car in to get new hubs replaced and got a pretty good feeling from the service department.  So I think I'm going to pull the trigger and buy a tune next week.

Returning car to stock tune takes 5 minutes, not a big deal.  Ford could probably tell you tuned it if they really wanted to, but I think we'll be fine as long as we take it in with the stock tune.  For added measure, you could always remove battery for a while and tell them the battery died and you had to jump it.

3BAR sensor is a 2 minute swap out, don't let that scare you. 

You should change the plugs and gap to .30, but you don't have to.  T-Stat isn't a big deal, I'm not going to change it out.  I live in a colder climate anyways, very rarely see ambient temps higher than 80F.

For $400, Torrie@Unleashed is the best cheapest route.  Might be able to sell the SCT tuner for $100 or so after lease to recoup some of your money.  Or use it for your next car if it's supported.

EVERYONE that has a tune says it's a huge difference.  It's around 60-70HP more and over 80LB-FT of torque more, which is a huge addition!  I'm pretty excited, don't think I can wait another month.    I've had my car for 5 weeks and know I average 23.5MPG on my commute.  Have a good feeling for the car, so will know how the tune affects it.

I plan to get an Unleashed tune ($400), 3BAR sensor ($60 shipped), and a K&N drop in filter ($50).  That should be good for a high 12 second SHO at ~107MPH.  Plenty fast for me.  Then once warranty is over (2 years), I'll add a full exhaust (catback, downpipes) and maybe a meth kit to make it a low 12 second car.
 
Welcome to the forum! You are correct that for greater benefits it is suggested to change the 2 bar out for a 3 bar. On the 13's and up the plugs seem to be closer than the previous years. My 13 had all 6 plugs gapped at .30 from the factory so what you can do is just pull them and check to see where they are at.

You will need to change the 3 bar back to the 2 bar if you are taking the car to the dealer since the car will not run on the stock file with a 3 bar. This process takes 45 seconds at most. So dont worry about this.

You can leave the thermostat in the car when you take it to the dealership unless they are specifically doing a coolant related fix. Obviously.

As for the lease im not sure what the conditions are nor have i ever leased a car but i assume tuning it is a big no no. You would have to read the fine print and see where you stand after knowing what the implications of such actions would entail.

Are you ok with a car that is "pretty fast" or are you looking for a car that is enjoyably fast? If anything you can just try the tune and see if you like it.. Yes you will be out the money but you will never know unless you try.

All that being said the car does come alive with a tune. It really does make it an enjoyable car. The stock power is great but for an enthusiast of bettering their ride... its a must. 
 
The quickest way to convince you is to Driver a tuned car :-P. If your not worried about racing the 3 bar and t stat are ment to optimize the gains you can get. So not needed.  Gap tthe plugs and your good stock or tuned.  3 bar sensor is easier than swapping in an air filter.  Only thing easier is probably fill the washer fluid.

 
I would honestly hold off for now,especially with all those recalls,if you get a tune the your going to want a exhaust then what an exhaust without Downpipes etc,then comes warranty????? hold off for now just a little peace of mind.
 
Stock tune:  13.86 @ 104.49 mph
LMS 4 plus tune:  13.15 @ 107.74 mph

LMS and unleashed are both reliable and have good reps and should yield same results.  Also, the stock tune was on a good weather day, the LMS was on a hot day with extra weight in my trunk and a baby seat. So I could probably do a tenth or so better.

There, I talked you onto it.


Brad
2010 SHO with PP
170* T-Stat
NGK LTR7IX plugs, gap at 0.030
BOV VTA
MyCal LMS Stage 4+
Sent from my iPhone
 
Good job everyone  :thumb:  I feel better about doing it.  Though I will admit, I'm a bit scared by the whole lease thing.

I am probably going to wait, though, until more information comes out about this most recent recall (for the half shafts).  I assume my car is affected, if so I'll do the tune after I get that taken care of.  That will also give me some time to put some miles on it and make sure nothing else is (most likely) wrong.
 
Lms tune only...12.75 non pp...once you tune you will not want to go back...crisp shifting with better throttle response. ..being a lease and planning to not buy after? I wouldn't want to test that legal jargon. ..
 
Fronzizzle said:
Good job everyone  :thumb:  I feel better about doing it.  Though I will admit, I'm a bit scared by the whole lease thing.

I am probably going to wait, though, until more information comes out about this most recent recall (for the half shafts).  I assume my car is affected, if so I'll do the tune after I get that taken care of.  That will also give me some time to put some miles on it and make sure nothing else is (most likely) wrong.

I tuned and put on MagnaFlow mufflers on a 2006 Trailblazer SS I leased.  Never had issues and returned it back to GMAC with the mufflers on and a CEL on.  Never heard back from them.  Other leases I got smart and always traded them in to get the  equity out of them.  Chances are you aren't going to turn it back in.  What's your residual after 36 months?  Probably around $22?
 
1. Buy it
2. Put it back to stock and turn it in.

I am exercising option 1 this time but have done option 2 repeatedly with no issues. They're not looking for mods at the lease turn in inspection unless you leave obvious clues. Even then they will just put it back to stock, certify it, and put it on the used lot.
 
There is a good chance I'll buy it when the lease is up.  However, I've been buying new cars for years and (almost) always end up trading them in before they are paid off.  Of course, I upgrade each time but now with this car - especially if I tune it - I'm not sure where I'd go.  Due to my job, I'm pretty much tied to the Big 3 and I need something I can drive year 'round in Michigan so other than getting a newer Taurus I'm not sure why I'd get rid of it.

Anyway, I've decided that I'm going to do the 3 bar and tune.  I'll also check the plugs - how difficult are they to pull on this car?  I know that some V6 engines are a nightmare to get to.
 
It all comes down to if the performance gains and joys of driving out weigh the anxiety of bringing your car into the dealer for service or warranty work. I have experienced both and I am really not sure where I stand at this time and point.
 
For people that like to mod our cars, warranty can be a curse.  Just easier to pay out of pocket for a performance shop to fix our problems.  The reliability of the drive-train of these cars is good, so I'm not sweating a trannie or engine issue.  If the engine blows, run it into a ditch and total it! :D (i keed).

I leased my last 4 cars.  I traded in 3 of them well before my 36 month was due.  It's just a numbers game, but I always ended up better doing a trade and not having to worry about getting nickle and dimed from the leasing company.  I financed a slightly used SHO this round, as the initial depreciation was steep and I wanted to pay off a car and drive it for 6 years.  I love this car, nothing else out there I'd rather be in.

So what I'm saying, you only are risking an expensive drivetrain failure and warranty not paying for it.  Don't worry about turning your car back in, they won't care if you tuned it.  But you will probably be better off treating it as a used car transaction and using it as a trade in at the end of your lease if the car is worth more than your residual.
 
I ordered a 3 bar MAP sensor from Rock Auto today, it should be here in a few days.  I decided to go with a tune from Livernois...but I'm confused as to what to buy.  From their website, the MyCalibr8or is $599.  But, they also have the MyCal Tuning Device for Ecoboost vehicles that is on sale for $799.  For me (no drag racing or further engine mods), I assume the $200 upcharge isn't worth it?  What else would I be getting if I went with the expensive one?
 
Pretty sure the $200 is for the device with screen you can mount. Save the $200 and you could get a tablet to run torque with more options at about same total cost. This is what I did per suggestion also.
 
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