please help me understand what the crap is going on? (wastegates) : Resolved!!!

TopherSho said:
stealbluesho said:
Could it be a byproduct of spraying too much?


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**If** my test drive goes well today,  and i feel it is fixed I will tell you in another 3 months after hooking the meth back up and enabling it.
:P

EDIT:: Luckily it seems the front three plugs are better indicators.  So that's an easy 10 minutes to peep and look.

What is really busting my balls is **IF** this fixes the last issue,  is that resetting the ECU temporally fixes the spark issue. 

It must be a learning thing AFTER the fact because i made damn sure OAR was .96  yet for the 1st couple power cycles it felt almost normal with only a 20% flutter at the end of 3rd.

but we are still on a hopefull **IF** .. so,  t-minus 2 hours to test drive where i can run into 4th under load.

 
AJP turbo said:
stealbluesho said:
Could it be a byproduct of spraying too much?


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I can't see that being the case...I just looked at his STFT's while spraying and he was between .80-.90 which is what I usually like and is WAY less than I have seen many other Meth tunes run from other people....I've seen many other NON AJP tunes where the stft's are maxxed out at .75 and flat lined meaning the ECU couldn't even pull as much fuel as needed to maintain Lambse

So I would say he was only spraying a moderate amount of meth so he wasn't running overly rich....It's strange I guess

In regard ONLY to the fouling,  I am convinced the environment I live in with colder plugs causes the dirty\bad plug condition. 
 
TopherSho said:
TopherSho said:
stealbluesho said:
Could it be a byproduct of spraying too much?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**If** my test drive goes well today,  and i feel it is fixed I will tell you in another 3 months after hooking the meth back up and enabling it.
:P

EDIT:: Luckily it seems the front three plugs are better indicators.  So that's an easy 10 minutes to peep and look.

What is really busting my balls is **IF** this fixes the last issue,  is that resetting the ECU temporally fixes the spark issue. 

It must be a learning thing AFTER the fact because i made damn sure OAR was .96  yet for the 1st couple power cycles it felt almost normal with only a 20% flutter at the end of 3rd.

but we are still on a hopefull **IF** .. so,  t-minus 2 hours to test drive where i can run into 4th under load.


So even after changing the plugs you are still getting fluttering?


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So even after changing the plugs you are still getting fluttering?

No idea.. in the limited testing last night it felt like it did in the early days before meth.  It ran hard and shifted like it wanted to break my spine... so i am hopeful.

But I have not made a hard run into 4th gear yet.  we are t-minus 95 minutes for that... with that i will have a final verdict.
 
THAT CRAP IS DONE SON.  FIXED WITH F&&KING  AATHORRRATEEEAA~

recap
:bad wastegates,  blew them up race night.
:cracked turbine that we did not know about until we replaced the turbos
:bad tubro that looked a darker ulgy color for the turbine metal(cracked unit)
:bad plugs after 10k miles on .28 gapped NGKs (that i have NOT checked the gap on yet.. but will tonight)

likely did not need to replace the Boost solenoid .. but @ 300$ out of 3000$ it is a big MEH.

I have no doubts on this.  before there was the tiniest flutter after clearing the ecu and applying as tune.  this time no clear, no tunes was applied and it ate the turf like a champ. no flutter of ANY kind.  smooth as butter.

I will data log it later to look for log jitter but my expectation is there wont be any..

Take-away :: if you have log jitter and random quick spikes of power and power loss.  it is your DAMN PLUGS.

F%%kcing done.
 
This time I’m pretty damn convinced.. :)  So convinced I will drop in the 15 pound tune and test, it then hook the meth up,  then test that... and then move back to the meth build. 
 
great to hear! def report back on the gap of your old plugs and keep an eye on them. hopefully issues don't persist.
i would be surprised if the plug fouling was caused by just one step colder plugs on a tuned SHO in ANY climate but who knows. i've always used 1 step colder plugs and never had any fouling in CO.
wonder if meth is cooling the cylinders enough to cause the fouling.



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Still working!  Driving it hard.

The plug gap was normal on both banks.  it was just the amount of baked in glazed carbon.. way too cold.
 
If you have not replaced the pcv valve/separator, would consider that as preventive  maintenance, along with a CAC check/clean.
 
Glad its fixed, please tell me you added an extra zero to the boost solenoid cost though. Its a $30 part, and a 5 minute swap, if you take half the time to drink a beer.

Still, glad the car is back as it should be!
 
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2010,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1445050,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+valve,5052

This ?

27867158_10155364720297685_7440091105569211037_n.jpg
 
derfdog15 said:
Glad its fixed, please tell me you added an extra zero to the boost solenoid cost though. Its a $30 part, and a 5 minute swap, if you take half the time to drink a beer.

Still, glad the car is back as it should be!

no ford charged 300 for the deal.. but i also made them replace all the damn hoses under the hood on all the secondary systems as well. 
 
The TSB specifies these parts

AA5Z-6A666-D  PCV Valve
AA5Z-6A785-F  Crankcase Vent Oil Separator

So the motorcraft pcv valve you listed should be perfect.  I don't see the CVOS listed on their site tho?

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-separator-aa5z6a785f/
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-pcv-valve-aa5z6a666d/
 
crankcase vent oil separator

and yes, rear valve cover, pass strut tower side.  pcv valve sits atop the separator.

ODxffh9h.jpg

TkCfw5sh.jpg

dcf2534946f3c1baf1a2413abf097dea.jpg
 
derfdog15 said:
This is the solenoid I was referencing,  https://www.1aauto.com/turbocharger-bypass-valve-solenoid-ford-oem-bl3z-9k378-a/i/fdzmx00010

I'm guessing they charged an hour or two of labor, or the hose prices are higher than DIY hoses, because they're probably specific motorcraft parts.

Yeah,  they charged a bunch for labor after i made them validate hoses and replace all the hoses that came of that, and a bunch of the secondary hoses. 

Ultimately the full bill as around 3000$ out of pocket with about 1500-ish in warranty coverage. in total without the warranty i'd be out of pocket 4500$. keep in mind that includes a control arm, and a slew of rusted bolts and things ..

Making these cars fast is easy,  *however I am the very definition of the cautionary tale.*  if you are not able to do most your own work,  fixing things that break after tuning can be VERY expensive.

 
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