Possible misfire on cold starts question.
- Thread starter DstryEvrytng
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DstryEvrytng
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Thankfully i was behind a very slow moving tractor so if worse came to worse (it almost did) the only one hurt would have been the front of the SHO. Probly the intercooler and rad since the tractor was towing a menacing looking 1.5 lane wide land ripper. Lol. Another 5 mph or another car length closer and the car would need a nose job.
I am also wondering that. If the mech removed that line (idk why he would have) when changing the plugs then it makes sense. I do drive a five mile stretch of really rough pavement twice a day so if something was loose there is a bery good chance the road finished it off.
I appreciate the concern of no one being hurt btw. Man id be not happy if i was driving like an a$$ and rear ended someone with a kid in the car.
Also. Your engine top is about as pretty as i imagine a sho’s could be. A polished intake manifold is the only thing i think that could make it any better.
I am also wondering that. If the mech removed that line (idk why he would have) when changing the plugs then it makes sense. I do drive a five mile stretch of really rough pavement twice a day so if something was loose there is a bery good chance the road finished it off.
I appreciate the concern of no one being hurt btw. Man id be not happy if i was driving like an a$$ and rear ended someone with a kid in the car.
Also. Your engine top is about as pretty as i imagine a sho’s could be. A polished intake manifold is the only thing i think that could make it any better.
DstryEvrytng
New member
ZSHO said:It could be the brake booster line check valve! Who changed the spark plugs!
There is a vacuum line near the rear spark plugs on bank 2!
I hope they get it fixed Pronto! Please keep us updated. Z
Highlighted in Red below!
Dealer just called and you nailed it. Brake booster vaccuum leak. The desk lady couldnt specify where the leak was but thats not really a question anymore at this point.
Now i will talk to my mech soon and explain the problem i had and ask if he removed that line when changing the plugs. Then etc... ugh
Thanks Z
If i had to fix it myself it would have been done roadside after a cpl posts here!
I was curious if the Ford dealer was able to check out the misfire,rough idle issue! ZDstryEvrytng
New member
Now that its in the sixty degree temps ar night it has been cold idleing fine. Of course it idles fine while its at the dealer. Lol.
They are just keeping the car because it was going in on monday to replace those seals anyways. Im stuck with an n/a escape. Man ii thought the ecoboost escapes are slow, this thing barely moves. Haha
They are just keeping the car because it was going in on monday to replace those seals anyways. Im stuck with an n/a escape. Man ii thought the ecoboost escapes are slow, this thing barely moves. Haha
DstryEvrytng
New member
As far as the miss goes i think this guy may be onto something.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=baWZjtb3QlY&start_radio=1&list=RDbaWZjtb3QlY
In the diesel world (my old realm) fords ccv system caused all sorts of problems. Basically the vented air/oil mix was clogging up cold air charge pipes. So guys vented to atmosphere which in turn wouldnt vent enough because of no pressure from boost/ too long to elaborate much on that.
I never had idle problems (beside injector stiction, damn heui system) with the 6leaker. These dirty maps in the 3.5 tho could most deff cause air fuel problems imo.
Now i just need to find the maps on the transverse mounted beast to see if they are all oily.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=baWZjtb3QlY&start_radio=1&list=RDbaWZjtb3QlY
In the diesel world (my old realm) fords ccv system caused all sorts of problems. Basically the vented air/oil mix was clogging up cold air charge pipes. So guys vented to atmosphere which in turn wouldnt vent enough because of no pressure from boost/ too long to elaborate much on that.
I never had idle problems (beside injector stiction, damn heui system) with the 6leaker. These dirty maps in the 3.5 tho could most deff cause air fuel problems imo.
Now i just need to find the maps on the transverse mounted beast to see if they are all oily.
One is on top of the intake manifold smack dab in the middle, the other is mounted vertically on the side of the throttle body/cac outlet pipe. Might as well clean the iat sensor too, mounted at the airbox.
You likely have a sensor on the cleanside pcv line, idk if it can be cleaned, but worth a look.
You likely have a sensor on the cleanside pcv line, idk if it can be cleaned, but worth a look.
DstryEvrytng said:
Mine has done it and cleaning the MAPs seems to help the most. The one on top of the intake will end up looking dirty while the one by the throttle body not so much. Doesn't hurt to clean both and the IAT as SHOdded mentioned as well. They are easy enough o get too.
DstryEvrytng
New member
Got the car back today. After 7 days in the shop.
They said the ptu leak was from an “rf axle seal” and suposedly replaced. To me that means right front axle seal but the ptu was leaking from the rear output. Idk, i havent been under this thing ywt but im going to need too asap.
The brake booster leak was due to the vent tube at the intake coming off. As that is an stc fitting ill hafta blame that on my mech that changed the plugs.
New thing now though. I started cleaning the sensors to chase down the missfire, which it still has just not as noticable due to warmer weather. And found this T20 screw missing and obviously the shaft was broken off and the hole filled, milled and just left like that.
Wtf?? Im about to sperg out on the dealer.
Edit= Cleaning the pictured sensor on top of the intake and the big one on the cac tube did fix the missfire. So thats a win.
They said the ptu leak was from an “rf axle seal” and suposedly replaced. To me that means right front axle seal but the ptu was leaking from the rear output. Idk, i havent been under this thing ywt but im going to need too asap.
The brake booster leak was due to the vent tube at the intake coming off. As that is an stc fitting ill hafta blame that on my mech that changed the plugs.
New thing now though. I started cleaning the sensors to chase down the missfire, which it still has just not as noticable due to warmer weather. And found this T20 screw missing and obviously the shaft was broken off and the hole filled, milled and just left like that.
Wtf?? Im about to sperg out on the dealer.
Edit= Cleaning the pictured sensor on top of the intake and the big one on the cac tube did fix the missfire. So thats a win.
Ford has been using a single screw to hold the MAP sensor onto the intake for many a MY now. I think as far back as 2011? Perfectly normal.
Cheap fix for the misfire is a big WIN
as is the BB leak fix.
Hope the rear output seal is not leaking! Clean up with brake cleaner and see if it reappears.
Cheap fix for the misfire is a big WIN
as is the BB leak fix.Hope the rear output seal is not leaking! Clean up with brake cleaner and see if it reappears.
DstryEvrytng
New member
Glad to hear the single screw is normal. Weird that the mounting surface on the intake looks like the other hole was filled and sanded recently.
Yes by the end of the evening everything compiled to a win. Especially when my son ran out and realised his “fast car” was back. Lol
I forgot to mention the dealer topped off the ptu. I had asked them to change the oil but they said “we just topped it off with a quart because its a lifetime fluid”. Lol. Wtf.
I asked “if its a lifetime fluid then where did the quart it was missing go”. No logical answer to that one lol
Yes by the end of the evening everything compiled to a win. Especially when my son ran out and realised his “fast car” was back. Lol
I forgot to mention the dealer topped off the ptu. I had asked them to change the oil but they said “we just topped it off with a quart because its a lifetime fluid”. Lol. Wtf.
I asked “if its a lifetime fluid then where did the quart it was missing go”. No logical answer to that one lol