When I bought my '14 PP new I decided on a 20,000 mile ptu fluid change interval. I purposely bought a pp to get the ptu cooling and a drain plug. Now that I'm at 20,000 miles, it's time for a flush.
I must say this was much more difficult on the 13+ pp than my '11. The reason is that the full hole is occupied by the temp sensor. It is impossible to get out with the rear down pipe on.
This is not a how-to; but here are some pointers to anyone with a water cooler ptu and a temp sensor.
First I pulled the down pipe. Pretty straight forward.
You will see that the temp sensor (just above the cv shaft) has a heat shield. The heat shield is held on by two of the water cooler cavity screws (torx). Only loosen the very top torx and the one just below it (next to the turbo Inlet). The reason you only loosen them is that the lower bolt location is slotted so that the heat shield will slide up out of the way. The top hole is solid so it does not fall out. I used a t-27 on mine with a swivel and a 6" extension. That may have been slightly small but it worked;may actually be a t-30.
Once you have the heat shield out of the way it's almost impossible to loosen the temp sensor. After 15 minutes of starring and trying countless wrenches, I finally developed this sollution:
It is a 15mm crows foot with a short extension and a swivel. This allows you to slide in between the cooling jacket, cv shaft, and turbo oil return line. Worked perfectly!
Once you get the sensor out, then you can pull the drain plug with a 1/4" Allen.
Here is what mine looked like after 20,000 miles!
It should look like this when it drains:
It was great that as soon as I pulled the drain plug, all the black oil came flowing out. I flushed it a little with solvent and then pumped some new oil to flush the solvent out. Once it was flushed I cleaned and replaced the drain plug I filled the ptu until it flowed out the temp sensor hole. I actually got all 500+ ml in it!
Put everything else back in reverse order. Made sure to put the temp sensor wires back in its two holder clips (one on the water cavity cover, and one on the cooler lines above the rear output shaft). Remounted the down pipe and now she's good for another 20,000.
Hope this saves someone else some time and irritation.
John
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I must say this was much more difficult on the 13+ pp than my '11. The reason is that the full hole is occupied by the temp sensor. It is impossible to get out with the rear down pipe on.
This is not a how-to; but here are some pointers to anyone with a water cooler ptu and a temp sensor.
First I pulled the down pipe. Pretty straight forward.
You will see that the temp sensor (just above the cv shaft) has a heat shield. The heat shield is held on by two of the water cooler cavity screws (torx). Only loosen the very top torx and the one just below it (next to the turbo Inlet). The reason you only loosen them is that the lower bolt location is slotted so that the heat shield will slide up out of the way. The top hole is solid so it does not fall out. I used a t-27 on mine with a swivel and a 6" extension. That may have been slightly small but it worked;may actually be a t-30.
Once you have the heat shield out of the way it's almost impossible to loosen the temp sensor. After 15 minutes of starring and trying countless wrenches, I finally developed this sollution:
It is a 15mm crows foot with a short extension and a swivel. This allows you to slide in between the cooling jacket, cv shaft, and turbo oil return line. Worked perfectly!
Once you get the sensor out, then you can pull the drain plug with a 1/4" Allen.
Here is what mine looked like after 20,000 miles!
It should look like this when it drains:
It was great that as soon as I pulled the drain plug, all the black oil came flowing out. I flushed it a little with solvent and then pumped some new oil to flush the solvent out. Once it was flushed I cleaned and replaced the drain plug I filled the ptu until it flowed out the temp sensor hole. I actually got all 500+ ml in it!
Put everything else back in reverse order. Made sure to put the temp sensor wires back in its two holder clips (one on the water cavity cover, and one on the cooler lines above the rear output shaft). Remounted the down pipe and now she's good for another 20,000.
Hope this saves someone else some time and irritation.
John
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I probably worked on it for about 3 hours without starts and stops. If I did it again, I could probably cut that time in half knowing what I know now. Definitely worth it though. Oil was black! But it was still oil and hadn't turned to sludge yet. I think 20k is pretty reasonable for the effort and the ptu unit health.