Re: Truck plugs in the SHO
- Thread starter foster6a
- Start date
Same part # exactly, did both vehicles back to back last fall.crash712us said:
I did the Flex again recently (same job)foster6a said:
Fronts are easy peasy, took me a minute to figure out the trick to getting the coils off is to rotate them and use the ramp on the valve cover to pop them off. Just pulling up didn't work for most.
The back can be a bit of a pain but not unbearable, just need to move some harness out of the way to get to them.
First time sucked, second time piece of cake.
crash712us
New member
foster6a said:
Pretty easy the rears are a little cramped, the turbo plumbing that run across the engine will have to move out the way a little bit. I just remove nut in the center of it a shift it over a bit to make room on rear plug closest to driver side.
Leadsled124
New member
I know this post maybe dead but i just discovered these forms and really like what im seeing so far!
Ok f150 plus from LMS. Im not sure what number heat range plug the other eco 3.5L's use but i did talk to LMS on this a while back. Not sure about the SHO and Flex but a ton of us f150 guys were experiencing knock/pinging and checked our plug gaps. I want to say stock gap is .35mm and a lot of us where seeing gaps all over the board even over .40. So basically we were probably getting spark blowout. i re-gaped but still had issues so bought brand new oem motorcraft plugs and then re-gapped to .33. Its been a lot more consistent since then. I would ASSUME your guys flex/SHO's would be in the same boat. You want a tighter gap especially if your increasing boost. Livernoise plugs i believe are jut that... Brand new replacment plugs but pre-gapped. Alot of people are runing .30 gaps but i thought that was too much for me and had better success with .33. Agian look up the stock gap specs if your checing because i m trying to recall work ive done 6 months+ ago but i do know the factory gaps left you scratching your head what is going on.
Also another benifit of the LMS pre-gapped plugs is you dont have to gap. (obviously), but on these modern plugs you do NOT want to touch the electrode!!!! Its very fragile and make it a PITA to gap!!!
Cheers!
Ok f150 plus from LMS. Im not sure what number heat range plug the other eco 3.5L's use but i did talk to LMS on this a while back. Not sure about the SHO and Flex but a ton of us f150 guys were experiencing knock/pinging and checked our plug gaps. I want to say stock gap is .35mm and a lot of us where seeing gaps all over the board even over .40. So basically we were probably getting spark blowout. i re-gaped but still had issues so bought brand new oem motorcraft plugs and then re-gapped to .33. Its been a lot more consistent since then. I would ASSUME your guys flex/SHO's would be in the same boat. You want a tighter gap especially if your increasing boost. Livernoise plugs i believe are jut that... Brand new replacment plugs but pre-gapped. Alot of people are runing .30 gaps but i thought that was too much for me and had better success with .33. Agian look up the stock gap specs if your checing because i m trying to recall work ive done 6 months+ ago but i do know the factory gaps left you scratching your head what is going on.
Also another benifit of the LMS pre-gapped plugs is you dont have to gap. (obviously), but on these modern plugs you do NOT want to touch the electrode!!!! Its very fragile and make it a PITA to gap!!!
Cheers!
BlackMammoth.org
New member
Is there a fine-wire colder plug available?
crash712us
New member
Yes I use denso iridium ITV22 one step colder than stock.
thatsmrgimp2u
New member
For the guys going a step colder, what are you gapping them at? I'll pick up the ngk equivalent to the dense itvs when I get my tune going.
2011 ISM SHO; Airaid Intake
2011 ISM SHO; Airaid Intake
crash712us
New member
I believe .030.