rear end lowered

68_GT said:
I have the PP and want to do exactly this to my SHO. Seems like since the springs are linear they would get a tad softer by cutting some off since you're loosing spring material essentially weakening them ?? My PP springs are already pretty stiff.

Did you have to realign after this ?
Click to expand...

It actually makes them stiffer.  Less metal to bend/flex.  Technically yes, you should.  I plan to do one after I trim mine down just a little bit too. 
 
I have H&Rs on my car now and have the funny stance as well and was thinking of cutting of more coil to even out the back as well...my question is without taking them off and looking myself, isn't there a groove the spring sits in and if you cut more coil but not a complete coil it will not sit in those grooves ??? I could be wrong but to lazy to pull them off to look
 
the top of the spring is squared, or flattened, so the spring can be spun in any direction and still sit correctly. the bottom of the spring is the side you cut so you'd turn the spring until it sits in the bottom groove correctly.
 
Was a spring press needed for the rear?  Also, how are the headlights adjusted exactly?  I would really like to do this, the a$$ up look is killing me. 

Edit*  Headlamp adjustment is in the owners manual.  Springs don't appear to need compressed either. 
 
I cut 1/3 of a coil off my rear spring just like he did except with a cut off wheel (the springs didn't get hot at all). My PP springs didn't lower it as much though with only 1/3 coil removed. I might cut off a little more. Possibly 1/2 of a coil to begin with cut off would even the tire / wheel well gaps on a PP.

we'll see. Couldn't tell any other difference with the car other than a little lower rear ride height.
 
i did the same thing and cut a little less then 1/2 a coil off my H&Rs now it sits level...you wont notice a difference in ride quality u cut the "dead" coil side ( the side thats already crushed flat and compressed with the car on the ground so its basically not changing the travel of the usable portion of the spring...the fronts  a different story, it uses the whole spring it has no "dead" section
 
68_GT said:
I cut 1/3 of a coil off my rear spring just like he did except with a cut off wheel (the springs didn't get hot at all). My PP springs didn't lower it as much though with only 1/3 coil removed. I might cut off a little more. Possibly 1/2 of a coil to begin with cut off would even the tire / wheel well gaps on a PP.

we'll see. Couldn't tell any other difference with the car other than a little lower rear ride height.
Click to expand...

Good to know.  My PP has the ass in the air like crazy.  I'll bet its 2" higher than the front.
 
Finally did this today. I had to buy an angle grinder with a cutting blade but with that it was super easy.  I cut a hair over the 1/3 coil and the rear sits slightly lower but if fine with me. I don't see why everyone doesn't do this.
 
so, my car has been riding on the cut springs for about 6 months now with two 1500+ mile road trips and everything is still great. it still rides like stock, it has never bottomed out, the shocks still control the ride just fine.
for the others that have cut their springs, how is everything going for you?
 
Once weather gets nice I can't wait to get this done.  The more I look at my car in parking lots the more I cringe seeing that huge ass up fender gap.
 
I would like to do this but I'm a little worried about getting the stance correct.

I think OP's car looks perfect.....dropped that ass end down while retaining a bit of the rake, which I like.

 
Just did this Saturday.

Holy sheeet it was easy.  It took longer to jack up and lower the car than do the actual work.  The total difference in front/rear fender gap between the wheel and fender was a massive 1.25"

Step 1.  Jack it up, make sure not to be a dumb ass and use actual jackstands.
Step 2.  Remove the wheels.
Step 3.  Using a 15mm deep socket and 17mm box wrench remove the swaybar end links from the knuckle.
Step 4.  Using your jack under the control arm to take the tension off the bolt, remove control arm to subframe bolt. (It helps to put some PB blaster on the exposed threads)
Step 5.  Lower control arm with jack and remove spring.
Step 6.  Drink some coke and watch a few minutes of Top Gear. (I'm a spoiled bastard with a flat screen in the garage.)
Step 7.  With the spring secured in a vice I used a piece of wire and measured 5 inches of length then wrapped it around the outside of the coil then marked it.  Then cut with an electric grinder, once cut spray exposed metal with gratuitous coatings of paint to prevent rust.
Step 8.  Drink some more coke and play with the daughter for a little bit.  Also go inside for pee break.
Step 9.  Reinstall....  place the bottom end of the coil correctly oriented with the pigtail stop.  Then raise the control arm/spring assembly slowly with the jack.  Using a rubber mallet to "massage and direct" the control arm to going in.
Step 10. Go to daughter's play house in the back yard to retrieve the lower control arm bolt and Dewalt impact driver.
Step 11. Use a large diameter punch or steel stock to center the bushing so the bolt threads do not get FUBAR'd.
Step 12. Install said bolt and torque to 159ft-lbs.  (I also used some red locktite as I noticed there was locking factory locking compound on it.
Step 13. Reinstall sway bar end link to knuckle, torque to 41ft-lbs.
Step 14. Reinstall wheels (torque lugs to 100ft-lbs) and laugh about how easy it was.

Taking 5" measured length of the coil worked PERFECT.  Initially after driving around the block the car was then only 3/8ths higher in the rear.  However after driving it around yesterday with a trunk full of guns and another person it settled a bit more.  I'll go remeasure later but visually it looks dead nuts even maybe 1/4" higher in the rear.

Should have done this second day I had the car.

Ride quality is completely unaffected. 

The picture in half the sun was after about 200 miles of driving.  The other was right after I finished.

 
Brucelinc said:
Step 8 makes sense except for one thing.  Anyone with a TV in the garage should also have a bathroom there.
Click to expand...
  Its variable, if its a late night session the yard is always an option.
 
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