Rear turbo removal

2010Limited

New member
In case you hadn’t seen my other thread- my rear turbo is toast. I’m having a hell of a time getting that one out. Any tips from those that have pulled that one out?

Basically where I’m at now is the oil feed, coolant lines and 1 manifold bolt need to come out.
Does the feed line need to be disconnected at the block? I can’t seem to get the torx bit in the screw from that angle.

Is it easier to remove the engine lift bracket for more space? 

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Thanks in advance for any tips


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Sure. Where are you at in the process.

- remove the cac tubes

-Drain the coolant. Or follow the coolant tubes to the right side of the engine, and pinch them off at the rubber tubes so they don't spill all your coolant when you remove the lines from the rear turbo. Or you can pull these rubber tubes from the t-stat housing and cap the t-stat nipples.

-Remove the rear engine hook/loop (above the rear maifold heat shield)

-Both heat shields need to be removed.

-The oil line needs to be removed at the connector @ the cylinder head. You'll need a 1/2  line disconnect tool. There is also a safety clip that will need to be removed first.

-Remove the bolts(2) that secure the turbo exhaust outlet flange to the block. Then remove the support bracket from the block.

-Remove the oil drain tube from the turbo and out of the engine. I recommend you purchase the mahle gasket kit. Comes with new orings, new gaskets and seals for the reinstall. Plug or tap off the engine block hole after you remove the turbo oil drain tube.

-youll also have to drop the rear half of the subframe to get the turbo out past the ptu/axle area.

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2010Limited said:
Thank you so much!


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Here are the parts that I used for gaskets.(front and rear turbo). Don't remember which is which. But Rock Auto carries these parts. But eBay had them for a few bucks cheaper + free shipping. I will post the reassembly procedure as well. Also get yourself some copper or nickel based antisieze for all of your nuts and bolts that contact the exhaust or anything hot or that are rusty. Including the heat shield bolts.

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2010Limited said:
ZSHO said:
2010Limited said:
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow! I guess plugged,restrictive is an understatement.  Z
Just slightly plugged. You mentioned the bolt- what would make that bad?


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The Banjo bolt,copper washer starts leaking with age and corrosion for starter's.  Z
 
ZSHO said:
2010Limited said:
ZSHO said:
2010Limited said:
The bolt? How about that filter


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Wow! I guess plugged,restrictive is an understatement.  Z
Just slightly plugged. You mentioned the bolt- what would make that bad?


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The Banjo bolt starts leaking with age and corrosion for starter's.  Z
Good info - I don’t know if that was a problem here. No leaks on top...just internally


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2010Limited said:
This could have been the culprit


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Also:
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[/quote]That filter screen tho. That was definitely the reason that turbo died. I did mine a month ago just upgrading a bit. My screen had literally 10 specs/120k.

That turbo bares a pretty strong resemblance to the hand gesture depicted. Hmmm


These are mine. Maybe consider some upgrades while it's out.lol
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