jimmyducati
New member
At this point id be happy to hear the tc was bad, atleast I would have a direction to go to get my car back!
RPM fluctuating at all times BUT idle speed
- Thread starter jimmyducati
- Start date
jimmyducati said:
Put some friction modifier in there and see if it helps. What difference does it make at this point if you're running out of options and nothing else is working? If it helps, you know what your issue is.
I used two packages of this stuff. The results should be immediate, but it's just a band aid.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487527733&sr=8-1&keywords=transmission+shudder
I dont think i would put friction modifier in...that stuff is made for gear oil on differentials that use clutch packs.
I woukd go to ford and make sure you have the latest calibration from ford..your car is pretty old and ford changes hundreds of items in the tunes for trans settings
Most tunes dont go into the level of detail that ford does
The new strategy from ford is like a new custom tune...i always like to take advantage of of what the ford calibrators have come up with and then i make my changes on top of that
If your lms tune is not based on the latest strategy for your car then there are updates you can benefit from....most of ford updates are for drivibility and emissions
I woukd go to ford and make sure you have the latest calibration from ford..your car is pretty old and ford changes hundreds of items in the tunes for trans settings
Most tunes dont go into the level of detail that ford does
The new strategy from ford is like a new custom tune...i always like to take advantage of of what the ford calibrators have come up with and then i make my changes on top of that
If your lms tune is not based on the latest strategy for your car then there are updates you can benefit from....most of ford updates are for drivibility and emissions
Lubegard product works fine in transmissions, but yeah, like any other additive, the longevity depends on how bad the original situation was to begin with. It can buy you time to consider your options.
Definitely check for the latest calibration, hope there is one, and it is able to correct the issue. Also worth trying AJPs tune, see if it is a software issue.
Definitely check for the latest calibration, hope there is one, and it is able to correct the issue. Also worth trying AJPs tune, see if it is a software issue.
jimmyducati
New member
AJP turbo said:
I still don't understand why the strategy being an older one makes it now run like doo doo butter??
What changed in my car overnight that it started acting up? It ran fun one day and crap literally the next morning.. it's not like every time I start it, it getsa satilite uplink to Ford and all tuning parameters are confirmed.. To me, this has to be a component failure.
jimmyducati said:
Strategy codes identify which vehicle,motor, etc. and software level your vehicle is at.
If a dealer puts newer software it might benefit especially with the issues your having that's all.
Its important keep the module programming up to date especially the PCM because Ford makes changes for a reason. Z.
ZSHO said:
You are probably correct and you have a component failure. But it's always a good idea to have the latest tune from ford on your car...A strategy update can have literally hundreds if not thousands of changes to the torque converter logic and trans behavior changes
And yes your LMS tune would over write any changes that the strategy update did....But Then I would send your new strategy over to LMS so they can transfer their items on to the new ford strategy then you get the best of both worlds
Many have reported smoother running/shifting vehicle after a strategy update....Ford spends a lot of time on the drivability areas of a tune not just power....You've changed many hard parts to this point, why are you against a ford flash?
jimmyducati
New member
$$$ is why... I despise dealers and have had nothing but bad luck ranging from a refusal to acknowledge a problem until the warranty was up, then saying "oh ya, its that #6 injector alright" to a dealer damaging the cruise control radar and leaving the bumper partially unbolted when replacing said radar causing cracks in the plastic. It makes my stomach hurt to give a dealer money 
I have yet to find a service department that can do anything I cannot (with the help of you fine folks that is). they seem to have lost the art of diagnosis, only being able to really fix something when the DTC tells them exactly what it is. Otherwise they are just going down the list of likely culprits until they find a fix, and I can do that in my driveway and keep the $75 an hour.
I have yet to find a service department that can do anything I cannot (with the help of you fine folks that is). they seem to have lost the art of diagnosis, only being able to really fix something when the DTC tells them exactly what it is. Otherwise they are just going down the list of likely culprits until they find a fix, and I can do that in my driveway and keep the $75 an hour.
I agree, the dealers I dealt with can't fix anything unless the light is on.jimmyducati said:$$$ is why... I despise dealers and have had nothing but bad luck ranging from a refusal to acknowledge a problem until the warranty was up, then saying "oh ya, its that #6 injector alright" to a dealer damaging the cruise control radar and leaving the bumper partially unbolted when replacing said radar causing cracks in the plastic. It makes my stomach hurt to give a dealer money
I have yet to find a service department that can do anything I cannot (with the help of you fine folks that is). they seem to have lost the art of diagnosis, only being able to really fix something when the DTC tells them exactly what it is. Otherwise they are just going down the list of likely culprits until they find a fix, and I can do that in my driveway and keep the $75 an hour.
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jimmyducati
New member
So of all the components on the car, what can cause my symptoms regardless of the engine being hot/cold?
Im going to change all the spark plugs and replace the fairily new o2 sensors with fomoco stuff Wednesday.. the Evap stuff has already been done, Ill reinstall the stock tune with the 2 bar just to rule out current modifications. Ill triple check the PTO and Trans fluid to make sure they are filled to the correct level, fresh tank of 93...
And I will call the dealer and see how bad its going to hurt to have my strategy updated, but im skeptical that its going to "fix" the issue. I still have the mindset that my ECU didn't wakeup on a random Tuesday and decide its going to run like crap because Ford rolled out an updated strategy... If it worked well yesterday, it should work just as well today.
Possible culprits:
-boost/vacuum leak somewhere
-a fuel management issue
-a failing air management component
Im going to change all the spark plugs and replace the fairily new o2 sensors with fomoco stuff Wednesday.. the Evap stuff has already been done, Ill reinstall the stock tune with the 2 bar just to rule out current modifications. Ill triple check the PTO and Trans fluid to make sure they are filled to the correct level, fresh tank of 93...
And I will call the dealer and see how bad its going to hurt to have my strategy updated, but im skeptical that its going to "fix" the issue. I still have the mindset that my ECU didn't wakeup on a random Tuesday and decide its going to run like crap because Ford rolled out an updated strategy... If it worked well yesterday, it should work just as well today.
Possible culprits:
-boost/vacuum leak somewhere
-a fuel management issue
-a failing air management component
I would thoroughly check/clean the throttle body, the TB motor, and the TP sensor. Grease before reconnecting sensor. The TB is known to be an issue when RPMs fluctuate at idle, so perhaps this is a variant of that problem.
As far as logging, please add TB parameters, including ETC_DSD and ETC_ACT, and ETC_TRIM (should be named pretty similarly). Also look for wastegate duty cycle (WGDC, perhaps?) parameters, and Torque Source/Torque Management parameters and add those. Then re-log & post. I am not seeiing much in your logs to point at right now. The knock readings look spot-on, there MIGHT be a SLIGHT variance in Equivalence, but again, nothing pinned down.
As far as logging, please add TB parameters, including ETC_DSD and ETC_ACT, and ETC_TRIM (should be named pretty similarly). Also look for wastegate duty cycle (WGDC, perhaps?) parameters, and Torque Source/Torque Management parameters and add those. Then re-log & post. I am not seeiing much in your logs to point at right now. The knock readings look spot-on, there MIGHT be a SLIGHT variance in Equivalence, but again, nothing pinned down.
jimmyducati
New member
I just ordered new Motorcraft 02 sensors, so if they are part of the problem it will be eliminated. Ill check the TB components and clean everything really well, gap the new plugs and record the parameters you suggested... Gotta get this back to tip top!
jimmyducati
New member
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s34.photobucket.com/user/jemorgan3/embed/slideshow/sho"></iframe>
Was changing the spark plugs and chasing vacuum lines this morning and found this... looks like there should be a cap or something plugged into that lower opening. Ignore the wire unplugged, i removed it to get a better pic.
Was changing the spark plugs and chasing vacuum lines this morning and found this... looks like there should be a cap or something plugged into that lower opening. Ignore the wire unplugged, i removed it to get a better pic.
jimmyducati
New member
Damn, I thought I was onto something with that! Anyway.. I changed the spark plugs this morning (first time the boots haven't stuck to the plug, so it was a way easy job) then went on a short drive after warming it up and confirming the trans fluid was filled properly (it was).
At idle it is smooth, but the RPM's still surge while cruising and/or accelerating at anything but breakneck speed. The exaggerated studder is also still there when accelerating like a normal person, first the weird surging, then a bad studder. All the PS-534 plugs were gapped to .030" and the old ones didn't show any bad patterns, all grayish tan tips with a trace of dark soot at the base of the threads.
Again, if I drive like an angry person, it sings beautifully.. Shifts nice and firm like usual. Drive like a normal person, crap. I data logged about 30 seconds of it, I think I got all of the symptoms captured:
At idle it is smooth, but the RPM's still surge while cruising and/or accelerating at anything but breakneck speed. The exaggerated studder is also still there when accelerating like a normal person, first the weird surging, then a bad studder. All the PS-534 plugs were gapped to .030" and the old ones didn't show any bad patterns, all grayish tan tips with a trace of dark soot at the base of the threads.
Again, if I drive like an angry person, it sings beautifully.. Shifts nice and firm like usual. Drive like a normal person, crap. I data logged about 30 seconds of it, I think I got all of the symptoms captured:
jimmyducati
New member
I think its more that I don't want to believe its the trans, but the shudder isn't consistent and went completely away for more than an insignificant number of miles after replacing the vent solenoid...
Keeping my fingers crossed that someone can look at the last data log and identify something else!!
Keeping my fingers crossed that someone can look at the last data log and identify something else!!
Here's one way to test for TC shudder:
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203
It is also possible that increasing the pressure of the EPC solenoid may resolve a TC shudder, according to another article. You could talk to LME and see what they think about the idea. If they agree to do it, then you can test with "normal" driving to see 4 yourself.
In your latest log, I do see TC slippage> than desired as accelerator pedal input increases. Throttle body behavior seems normal, as does WG duty cycle.
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/203
It is also possible that increasing the pressure of the EPC solenoid may resolve a TC shudder, according to another article. You could talk to LME and see what they think about the idea. If they agree to do it, then you can test with "normal" driving to see 4 yourself.
In your latest log, I do see TC slippage> than desired as accelerator pedal input increases. Throttle body behavior seems normal, as does WG duty cycle.
jimmyducati
New member
If AJP's evaluation of my latest doesn't suggest anything BUT converter issues, Ill get it checked out this week.. Are dealers the way to go or would I be better off going to a transmission specialty shop?
Also.
Also.