I think i found that bad boy,its a EGR Pressure feedback sensor,you can also click in the diagram for more results. Z http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=wJ5rw4UYbmUXFHplRQm%2fiQ%3d%3d&id=341340225&m=2&search=true&year=2016&make=Ford&model=Explorer Update on Rx 11-14 Install only Instructions. http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Ford-EcoBoost.pdf
Rx Catch Can Install on Explorer Sport
- Thread starter JimiJak
- Start date
Yup, that's it.... The EGR sensor only appears on the 15 and up models.
Called RX.....Apparently you don't need to drill into the factory turbo pipes anymore. But since I have already done that I focused on what I need to do with what I already have. Apparently, that pipe with the sensor can and should be left alone. No capping of the port.
Some advise for these that are doing the installation for 15 and up models: call RX for direction. Don't follow instructions in this thread or even these on RX's own web site. They are not completely accurate for the newer models.
Called RX.....Apparently you don't need to drill into the factory turbo pipes anymore. But since I have already done that I focused on what I need to do with what I already have. Apparently, that pipe with the sensor can and should be left alone. No capping of the port.
Some advise for these that are doing the installation for 15 and up models: call RX for direction. Don't follow instructions in this thread or even these on RX's own web site. They are not completely accurate for the newer models.
Unfortunately, I did not quite understand how they suggest it should have been installed. My head started spinning a bit as he was rattling off and I heard that I did not have to drill two OEM pipes that I so did not want to drill into....and driving around for an hour and a half looking for a 3/8 NPT tap....(please shoot me now).
He said one connection to the passenger turbo pipe is sufficient, but which existing port you can use to avoid drilling, I do not know. Also, why do they provide a tee if one connection is sufficient.....
He said one connection to the passenger turbo pipe is sufficient, but which existing port you can use to avoid drilling, I do not know. Also, why do they provide a tee if one connection is sufficient.....
glock-coma
New member
this is what I'm doing.JimiJak said:
glock-coma
New member
I have a tap you can have. It came with my new css and check valves. Shoot me an address I'll get it sent out ASAPslicky said:
Thank you glock. I did find a tap at harbor freight, so I am good. Now I am obsessing about the plastic shavings that I am sure fell into the intake. I used grease on the bit, and drilled slowly, but still....its a bit of a blind operation. Sure hope it all vaporizes instantly.glock-coma said:
glock-coma
New member
Glad to hear. The shavings will pass through without issue according to rx.
After much back and fourth emails with Tommy from Rx Speed Works (who was incredibly helpful and quick to respond, even at 10pm), I can now suggest a much simplified install. I am assuming that you read the initial instructions, so I will only amend them here and provide the following main points:
1. The 90 degree tube from the PCV valve on the passenger side of the engine: Do not cut the tube to remove the OEM quick connect fittings. Heat up the tube at connection points with a heat gun and the fittings will come out without damage to the tube or themselves.
2. Side note: 2015+ models have an EGR sensor in the pipe in the front of the engine connecting the port to be capped to the port on the passenger side turbo inlet pipe.
3. The can kit should come with an adapter that allows you to connect an OEM quick connect fitting to a 1/2" hose. My kid did not include it and this came up in my conversation with RxSW. They are sending me one. If you do not receive it as a part of the kit, call them and ask them to send it before you do anything. This allows you to install the right can line to the passenger turbo inlet pipe WITHOUT drilling any holes.
4. Only one connection to the turbo inlet pipes is required. You DO NOT need to drill the drivers side turbo inlet pipe (you could, if you want full system efficiency). If you choose to drill ut, do not drill in the seam of the pipe, like I did, and split the pipe when tightening the fitting. I know... it was brilliant
So to summarize, the only permanent modification to OEM components that you need to perform is to drill the lid of your intake box for a CCS connection. That's it.
See the diagram below.
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1. The 90 degree tube from the PCV valve on the passenger side of the engine: Do not cut the tube to remove the OEM quick connect fittings. Heat up the tube at connection points with a heat gun and the fittings will come out without damage to the tube or themselves.
2. Side note: 2015+ models have an EGR sensor in the pipe in the front of the engine connecting the port to be capped to the port on the passenger side turbo inlet pipe.
3. The can kit should come with an adapter that allows you to connect an OEM quick connect fitting to a 1/2" hose. My kid did not include it and this came up in my conversation with RxSW. They are sending me one. If you do not receive it as a part of the kit, call them and ask them to send it before you do anything. This allows you to install the right can line to the passenger turbo inlet pipe WITHOUT drilling any holes.
4. Only one connection to the turbo inlet pipes is required. You DO NOT need to drill the drivers side turbo inlet pipe (you could, if you want full system efficiency). If you choose to drill ut, do not drill in the seam of the pipe, like I did, and split the pipe when tightening the fitting. I know... it was brilliant
So to summarize, the only permanent modification to OEM components that you need to perform is to drill the lid of your intake box for a CCS connection. That's it.
See the diagram below.
I would personally recommend removing the charge pipe for drilliling and removing all shavings.... At turbo temps they would seem likely to be permanently coked on to the impeller blades as the burn if they don't "pass through".... This is a part of what the system is actually designed to prevent.
On the other hand, having thought about it some more, I don't think the air inlet side of the turbo gets anywhere close to hot enough to instantly melt the high temp plastic that the inlet pipe is made of. Its clamped to the turbo housing after all. Even at normal operating temperature, the shavings will bounce off the spinning impeller blades and be on their merry way to the internal combustion inferno......
That said, I would still remove the pipe for the peace of mind. Or better yet, not drill it at all.
That said, I would still remove the pipe for the peace of mind. Or better yet, not drill it at all.
I agree on the shavings, regardless of how harmless they may be, you are bolting on an aftermarket device which is usually documented depending on the dealer/technician. I'm not giving them any reason to void what little warranty I have left. My Rx kit is installed on a 2013 SHO which has documentation on record at the dealer noting modification to the BOV, installation of CAI, and an "unidentified" modification to the PCV system. I get to see these notes on every ticket I get if they service the vehicle.
Back to the drilling; it is my understanding the SHO is the tightest on space in the engine bay to install the kit on. Perhaps this is why there are relatively few write-ups on them. Despite this, I found it fairly easy to loosen the coupling and just take the rear pipe off to drill. With your engine also being transversely mounted, but with a larger bay, removing it to drill should be a piece of cake.
Having OCPD (took me 2 weeks to get it exactly the way I wanted) I decided that I wanted the rear pipe's tap location to be the same distance from the turbo inlet as the front where I was using a factory snap connector and the OE port left when removing the front PCV hose. I have NO evidence this is in any way beneficial or necessary, but like I mentioned, I literally can’t help myself.
But to each his own, and it is totally possible I spent extra time that was wholly unnecessary. On the other hand, as I intend to create a detailed SHO installation write-up, I took about 150 photos throughout the installation. Here is a photo of the shavings I didn’t want entering my turbo inlet simply out of an abundance of caution.
Back to the drilling; it is my understanding the SHO is the tightest on space in the engine bay to install the kit on. Perhaps this is why there are relatively few write-ups on them. Despite this, I found it fairly easy to loosen the coupling and just take the rear pipe off to drill. With your engine also being transversely mounted, but with a larger bay, removing it to drill should be a piece of cake.
Having OCPD (took me 2 weeks to get it exactly the way I wanted) I decided that I wanted the rear pipe's tap location to be the same distance from the turbo inlet as the front where I was using a factory snap connector and the OE port left when removing the front PCV hose. I have NO evidence this is in any way beneficial or necessary, but like I mentioned, I literally can’t help myself.
But to each his own, and it is totally possible I spent extra time that was wholly unnecessary. On the other hand, as I intend to create a detailed SHO installation write-up, I took about 150 photos throughout the installation. Here is a photo of the shavings I didn’t want entering my turbo inlet simply out of an abundance of caution.
glock-coma
New member
we appreciate the how to roadkill. I mounted my rx behind the driver side bumper next to the horn.Roadkill said:
Thanks! I think where you mounted is the optimal location but I had reservations in putting it there out of sight in case a technician wondered why all these hoses were running to something they couldn't easily identify (not they could do so in plain sight either) or if I had to sell her, which would be highly unlikely, an uninformed purchaser of a SHO might not grasp what exactly the need for such a device might be especially if they can't see it.
Good or bad, mine ended up right up top behind the coolant reservoir which took some "custom" work on the supplied brackets and remounting of the reservoir with nylon spacers. Several fittings have been replaced since this photo, especially the CSS which uses 90 degree hose barbs to tuck up under the vanity cover.
Good or bad, mine ended up right up top behind the coolant reservoir which took some "custom" work on the supplied brackets and remounting of the reservoir with nylon spacers. Several fittings have been replaced since this photo, especially the CSS which uses 90 degree hose barbs to tuck up under the vanity cover.
glock-coma
New member
I like that setup. Much shorter hoses.
I had the css hose going down toward the radiator at first also. I was getting oil in the hose so I ran it up toward the intake manifold around the hpfp. Then to the airbox.
this is with my old css but my new one is setup the same way.
I had the css hose going down toward the radiator at first also. I was getting oil in the hose so I ran it up toward the intake manifold around the hpfp. Then to the airbox.
